schiu

Is this the same as engine mounts. I have this fault code so i follow the instructions from Audi TSB to install a resistor to the right engine mount but the fault code remains and in addition another fault code from the right engine solenoid mountAddress 01: Engine Labels: 077-910-560-BFM.clb
Part No SW: 4E0 910 560 E HW: 4E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0040
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUX3Z0C0307726
Coding: 0011773
Shop #: WSC 00010 773 174674
VCID: 2310E51847D888FF10B-8076

1 Fault Found:
18284 - Valve for Torque Support Mount
P1876 - 004 - Open Circuit
Readiness: 0010 1001

MP4.2+6.0

Torque mount is separate. It is in front of the main motor mount on the U.S./continental Europe passenger side. Almost right above the alternator area.

Look at it BTW to be sure the mount is not blown. Look for either big cracking in the rubber on the side of it and/or dark brownish oil that has oozed out of it or stained parts below it. The torque mount on my W12 failed before CPO warranty ran out, and the one on my 2000 A6 4.2 was gone by about 10 years/120K miles.

schiu

Thanks for your reply

schiu

I have download a diagram from google search . Is it number 14 for the torque support mount. The garage mechanics disconnect the harness from solenoid number 5 to fit the resistor so now i have an extra fault code. Will this cause permanent damage to solenoid number 5 or do i urgently need to get reconnect it
Thanks in advance

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, #14 is torque support mount, in general position I described. #5 is a main motor mount, but is not shown in correct position. It is in fact behind the torque mount (for one on passenger side). What that dashed line on diagram (poorly) is trying to show. It is NOT the same as the torque mount, and if your mechanic thought that was the torque mount, he screwed up the work.

The torque mount on my 2000 A6 4.2 was not even the electrically switched type, nor was it on my 2006 D3 W12. There is a TSB about the electrical switching for torque mounts IIRC--need to search or have Bentley. AFAIK, nothing catastrophic happens if you unplug any of these, beyond warning lights or codes. Motor will not be as smooth though. Any broken mounts should definitely be replaced. Affects smoothness overall (more so than the electrically controlled damping), and longer term causes other mounts to also fail from added stress on them.

Mister Bally

Here's a pic. On the left is the old one that is no longer functioning properly but still attached to the upper support arm (that's #10 in the exploded view above). A new replacement support is shown below. Note that the replacement doesn't even bother to include the electrical connector. I guess they assume everyone bypasses it with a resistor.

All of the brown goop from the old one is long-gone.

91quattro

I can look straight down from the front of my car and see the torque mount, and also that it's cracked all the way around. Seems pretty accessible, how hard is it to replace? And do I need to do some kind of resistor bypass for the new mount?

MP4.2+6.0

Can see on a W12 actually too--just barely. I did my A6 4.2 with cylinder head off for other work. Very easy access at that time. Should be easy with a timing belt job too, esp. if you are puling front clip. Can't say for sure otherwise, but maybe a 4.2 owner knows--who did it outside a timing belt change that is. On a W12 it is an apparent nightmare the first time; dealer did mine under CPO. Like >10 hours! They said they had to painfully drill a one off hole in order to remove a key bolt without enough clearance to back out. Paid my then $65 for the whole CPO punchlist so didn't ask further.

The electrical stuff about these is covered in an old TSB IIRC. W12 had no wire set up.

91quattro

On my D3, it is right there, doesn't seem like it would be a 10 hour job...I'm sure it's different on a W12. Actually wondering if this could be combined with replacing the oil cooler pipe, which is leaking on my car right now. I did find the TSB on the resistor pack in Bentley - and I can see the cracked torque mount on mine definitely has the electrical connector, so is probably original (car was assembled in June 2004).

Mister Bally

Yes, simple to replace the torque mount when doing the notsosimple oil cooler pipe.

I replaced my oil cooler pipe as PM since I was close by doing other stuff. While my pipe wasn't leaking, once off, it broke like a pretzel.