A8nightmare

Anyone that has had that loud actuator motor for the wind deflector that makes the grinding noise up and down...I fixed mine fairly simple. The motor you need to get at is directly above the opener **** you turn to open the sunroof

1. Take a putty knife and slide it in the outside long edge of the white dome lenses. Pry sideways and down gently. They will pop right out. There are two Torx screws holding the entire light/opener assy in place.

2. Once they are out just pull down on the assy from the front edge(closest the windshield) the unit hinges down then out. Once out of the way you will see the actuator motor. The motor looks like two aluminum circles stacked on top of each other with a metal clamp holding them together plus onto the plastic transfercase(which makes all the noise).

3. Take a very small regular screwdriver and pry up on the very thin piece in the middle of the metal bracket where it holds onto the clip. Once you pry up the center piece you can press foward on the metal clip getting it off the plastic catch.

4.Once that side is off you can remove the motor. If the other side stays on...just leave it(you will have to put it back on if it comes off.

5.Finally take a grease gun and put it in the hole where the motor drive gear came out of. Pump a shot or two of grease in the plastic transmission box and put it back together. Make sure you test it before buttoning everything back up. It should be virtually silent...mine is now.

K9COP

I'll update if I get a 'thump' or 'silence'...

K9

05SilverA8

I solved this as well by just taking the motor and the wind deflector out. PM me if you need diagrams on how to take it out/in as there are adjustments when putting the wind deflector back in.

K9COP

So, just worked on mine. A few pointers (sorry it's so long....)

1) When taking out the interior light lenses (opaque) to gain access to the torx screws to release the console, they are 'handed' so note who goes where (part #'s on them) for easy install. As 'nightmare' said, a knife blade behind the leading edge and gently pull downwards. They hinge on tabs at the trailing (rear) short edge of the white light lenses....

2) Allow a lot of time for this job as it's fiddly, and time consuming.

3) If you work with the sunroof open, when you release the motor from the 'gearbox' (More on that later), the wind deflector actuator arms (plastic parts moved by the motor inside the console cavity in the roof) will 'snap' to their default position, allowing light into the now open console cavity as they unblock a hole between the two (sunroof aperture and console cavity). This can be a little disconcerting, but just remember that when you reinstall the motor, the gearbox, and hence the actuator arms, need to be in the correct position, i.e. fully down. With the roof open, stick your head out, push down the sprung wind deflector (it's free moving) and then carefully move down the actuator arms. If the gearbox is still in (motor out), they'll move together. This now 'presents' the gearbox in the correct gear position inside to accept the motor for re-installation You'll run out of hands and probably joints in your fingers at this point. Maybe an assistant in a sparkly swimsuit would help at this juncture...

4) Now, to that motor removal and install. As 'nightmare' stated, the motor is held in by a metal clip, kind of like the Greek 'sigma' symbol in design. The two ends clip onto tiny and fragile tabs on the 'gearbox'. To remove, use a pick to carefully ease the end of the clip off the tab on the side closest to you. That will allow the clip to 'hinge' on the other tab, but you don't really want that. Once the clip is off, remove the motor and pack the gearbox with grease.

5) To reinstall the clip that holds the motor in:

There are two groves, one on each side on the motor in the black plastic strips between the aluminium casing, running front front to back along the axis of the motor, and they accept the flat sides of the clip. The middle of the clip is that shape for a reason. Slide it onto the motor, then hold the side closest to you flat against the motor, but not trying to get it to clip on the tab, and push the raised/angled part of the end of the other side of the clip. There is a little 'ramp' on the leading edge of the tab on the gearbox that assists the clip into place. Now repeat for the side nearest you. It is one monumental PITA to do, so be careful. I actually took the gearbox out of my car to do it, to see how the clip worked (2 x t10 torx screws, one inside the console cavity, one on the front edge of the sunroof aperture, to remove the gear box).

6) I wouldn't recommend taking the gearbox out, as it only re-installs one way, the crank has to be in exactly the right position, you can't install it with the motor attached, and the arms that raise the wind deflector are actually independent of each other without the gearbox installed, so they have to be aligned correctly to accept the gearbox back in.. There is so much danger of breakage, lost teeeny screws, and mal-adjustments, that I just wouldn't recommend it.

7) Mine still makes the same noise of course, I may need some thicker grease, but I'm not convinced half the noise isn't just resonance through the hollow plastic housing it's all attached to.

I did take some pics, and I'll stick them on here if anyone wants them (PM me). I would advise to look at pics carefully before you tackle this job, and also, you have to really want that noise gone to want to F with it.

K9

awdinut

I had the same thought about resonance, because the noise in my car was only diminished but not eliminated by the 'fix'. If I get ambitious enough I will pull the console and stick a bit or two of noise deadning material on the outside of the plastic case that houses the gears.

Also dont know if I got enough grease in the case...dont know how much is too much. Should I have filled it ? An with what ? I used silicon grease, I know it needs not to be petroleum based since the gears are plastic. And it needs to be heat stable grease that wont turn to a liquid and run out into my headliner. Anyone know the correct product for this application ?

By the way, I solved my 'THUMP' problem by following the initialization procedure some one posted. Thankyou.

roverblaine

Good Morning,

I am working on this problem today and was looking for the diagrams and pictures you were offering? Second, I was looking for the intialization process for the sunroof?

Thanks for the help,

Blaine
5027674903

Vicl

Yes, I think pictures would be very much appreciated by all members here.

roverblaine

Good morning VICI,

Should the sunroof be open, closed, or part way open for the lube process? The other guy that followed up stated to have the sunroof open would require some tricky holding of the two tabs in the track. Could this be avoided by lubing when sunroof is closed?

What do you think?

Blaine
5027674903
2009 A8L V8

spillmar

Sunroof, Performing Initialization
– Switch the ignition on.
Start Initialization
– Turn sunroof switch to “roof closed” position and wait until roof is closed.
– Pull switch down and wait until a soft ratcheting sound of the wind deflector motor can be heard.
– This completes the initialization.
Start Learning Phase

Note
Learning phase for roof system must be performed so that a defined pinch protection is guaranteed.
– Release switch and pull it back down immediately.
– Within 5 seconds, sunroof learning phase starts.
– During learning phase, the switch must be pulled continuously over the entire time period.
– Perform learning phase completely.
– During this, sunroof opens completely toward rear, closes again, sunroof cover opens and closes again.
– Now, system has been initialized and learning phase performed.
– Pinch protection is active and system is ready for operation.

calmone

wish i'de seen this thread earlier, I just bit the bullet and had a new motor installed.