Sci-fi_Wasabi

Just need some quick advice from someone for My 2009 A8 4.L BVJ engine. I'm ready to walnut blast, but I'm not sure how to turn the crankshaft pulley to close my valves. I see no bolt, just a hole, which I'm assuming is threaded like the picture below from another members (V10AWD) post. Without using the special audi tool for locking it, is there another way to manually turn the crankshaft. Is there a bolt I can screw in there with the right threads, to get a breaker bar on and turn it? I don't want to use the starter, as I think it is safer for me to just do it by hand, given fuel pumps, and error codes.
Also, I'm assuming I turn it clockwise (as I look at the engine), is that correct.
I see intake valves in cylinder 4 clearly open, but I feel like 5 and 8 also don't hold a small amount of fluid, does someone know the intake valve opening order?
Mostly i need help with a hack way to turn the crankshaft pulley.
Thanks


ABOVE PIC FROM member V10AWD


engine cylinder numbering as I think it is
4 ^ 8
3 ^ 7
2 ^ 6
1 ^ 4
Front

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, I think there is some special tool for that. But, yes I think you can kludge it. I would try to determine hole size and depth--or search around web for at least thread pitch. Then I would get a metric bolt (hardened) just about full depth. BUT I would not let it bottom inside the crank hole where there is any possibility you might fracture it. Instead, washer it until you are sure that under force it still won't quite bottom out.

Yes, I always spin Audi V8's (and others) to the right when facing crank.

Yes, cylinder numbering is as you state, other than the typo about cylinder 5 at right front.

No idea which valves move when but with combinations of 4 cycle and siamesed crank pins (every two opposing are grouped on one offset area of crank) + 90 degree V and such, probably 2 or three cylinders are in motion at any point in time. Another way to be comfortable the valves are closed is to pull the plugs. Then just move motor to where piston for a given cylinder is at top dead center. Stick a long flat blade screwdriver down into hole as your guide (to where it lifts to max height), or a wood dowel rod to be gentle. Then you know all the valves are closed, whether intake or exhaust and regardless of compression or exhaust stroke for 4 cycle. Should be able to see the intake valves anyway with the manifold pulled.

Sci-fi_Wasabi

thanks for the info. another forum suggested lifting one wheel of the ground and turning it to see if that will turn the engine (assuming it is not in park) any thought about that given the all wheel drive mechanism?

MP4.2+6.0

I don't see how that does anything...it's an automatic transmission, not a stick.

Sci-fi_Wasabi

good advice,
I did find a specialty tool, of course another thing to buy,
Socket T40058 which has a 22mm square bit on the end to wedge itself between the circle of crank shaft bolts.

here is a website with a lot of details on it:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/465917228710101479/

2010A8Lsport

I work in Stainless Steel fabrication, I'm going to build one of these.

Thank you for the link to the pictures with measurements..

Sci-fi_Wasabi

Nice!
Don't thank me, thanks some dude in Russia who is also sick of buying VAS tool ##### for every project.
Just incase the pictures disappear in the future... The square was 22mm on each side, and appears to be 1 cm deep. The guide pin is 12 mm in diameter and 1 cm. then there is what appears to be 1cm of space, then, socket end is 24 mm, with a 1/2 inch drive in it.

AEightSilver

Out of curiosity does anyone know the size of the socket needed to turn the BFM engine crankshaft? Looks like a 12 point e-torx.

maxandtara

Just a suggestion....

You took the time to inquire about it. Take the time to buy a new bolt.

For a Critical part like that, If you are working on it, you might as well replace it with a new bolt.

Whenever you remove old parts anything can happen.

I think its about $10. By having the bolt in your hands, you will know exactly what type of tool you will need.

Its a big *** specialty bolt. Unlike most audi bolts with a special coating for rust prevention, this one is not.

AEightSilver

I don't intend to remove the bolt, but I will need to turn the engine by hand (planning a cam tensioner job) and that is why I want to know the socket size. The sockets I have are too long to fit in there without removing the fan or front clip so I have no easy frame of reference for size. I want to purchase a low profile socket that does the job if possible.