Aman Singh Parhar

Hi Guys, my A8 has an intermittent turbo problem; which is rectified by cycling the ignition. It basically doesn't kick in. Here are the error codes from VCDS. Is it the turbo actuator? Also some have said for a 2005 A8 3.0 tdi like mine the actuator is vacuum sealed? Is that a load of rubbish... sounds it!

Or is it something simpler like cleaning the electrical contacts to the actuator.








Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 401 Q HW: 4E0 907 401 C
Component and/or Version: 3.0L V6TDI G000AG 0020
Software Coding: 0011973
Work Shop Code: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 29591B2F800CF956E3D-807C
3 Faults Found:

013128 - Control Circuit for Controller for Turbocharger 1 (J724)
P3348 - 008 - Electrical Malfunction
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 139
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 181214 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.03.16
Time: 21:22:06

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 189 /min
Torque: 163.8 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.4°C
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %
Voltage: 10.26 V
Duty Cycle: 0.4 %

013128 - Control Circuit for Controller for Turbocharger 1 (J724)
P3348 - 003 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 139
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 181214 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.03.16
Time: 21:22:06

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 189 /min
Torque: 163.8 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.4°C
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %
Voltage: 10.26 V
Duty Cycle: 0.4 %

000565 - Boost Pressure
P0235 - 001 - Regulation Range not Reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 13
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 187082 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.21
Time: 13:12:45

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2058 /min
Torque: 253.5 Nm
Speed: 68.3 km/h
Absolute Pres.: 2172.6 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1091.4 mbar
Mass Air / Rev.: 446.5 mg/str
Temperature: 26.1°C


Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0

silkworm

Hi,

I had the same problem as you did and the same errors on VCDS. At first, it solved by turning off and on the engine, but eventually, the turbo entered limp mode more often and I couldn't drive. I didn't know what it was, mechanics were not sure if it was an electrical problem or a mechanical one, and some of them didn't know to tell me if I need to change the whole turbo or just the actuator.

Since it seemed it was something like a trial and error because the mechanics didn't help me much scratching their heads, I decided to solve the problem on my own.

So I bought a new actuator that solved my problem in the first try . BUT! It didn't solve the problem right away, so please read to avoid some of the headaches that I had.

A new actuator should be calibrated on your car. It is compatible with multiple engines/turbos and the right software has to be written/coded. Once calibrated, it cannot be recalibrated on another car with different specs.

The calibration requires a (proprietary) special tool made by VAG group that is not available for usual people, even most advanced services don't have it, so your best hope will be the dealer.
Calibration is NOT done by ODB2 port, so VCDS and other diagnosis tool won't help you. Do not try to calibrate it yourself, you won't succeed. Do no try to use it uncalibrated - the turbo will enter limp mode right away.

Do not try to install it yourself! While installation is not that much complicated, they have to remove it in order to do the calibration.

My advice is to NOT buy a second-hand actuator because it may or it may not function properly on your car. But if you decide to go cheap and buy somewhere like ebay, there are sellers that may pre-calibrate the actuator for you if you give them the VIN. However, I still think that the best calibration is right on your car.

In the package, along with the actuator, you will get a new lever and a new set of screws, at least that's what I got when I bought it.

Hope this helps.

Aman Singh Parhar

Thanks! I'm going to try some basic stuff unplug connectors clean them up etc and see if that makes any difference first. If not I guess ride it out till it gets worse and then change actuator? No harm going to be done is it?

silkworm

Meanwhile, I searched my VCDS logs and I can see that I didn't had the 'P3348 - 003' ('Intermittent') error, just the 'P3348 - 008' one ('Electrical malfunction'), so it could be a 'dirty connector', however I see that until the moment you did the scan, bot the 'intermittent' and the 'permanent' errors were logged to your car.

You may clean the connector - this will do no harm, but it has large pins so I don't think that the intermittence in the circuit is caused by them... unles they were exposed to corrosion, but I doubt it.

Allendebruin

Yes thank you.. where did you purchase the actuator?

volvopentaman

Had quite same problem on friends MB S320CDI 2007. Basically same ****, a Garret/Honeywell VNT turbocharger controlled by an electonic box made by Honeywell.

Bought a NEW electronic controller actuator box on Ebay.de from a shop that calibrated it for me. They needed a photo of the calibration numbers printed on the box.

The box can also be repaired, IF you are a real hard core guy. There are repair sets for these Honeywell boxes, it consists of a small electric motor and a worm-gear drive that needs to be replaced. The only problem is that the box itself is "glued" inside, so it will be a helluva job to swap that out.

Neu Original VDO Stellmotor Audi A4 A6 A8 Q7 VW Phaeton Touareg 2.7 TDI 3.0 TDI | eBay

Stellmotor für Turbolader Audi VW 3.0 TDI,KKK VTG orig. Neuteil VAG BorgWarner | eBay

silkworm

I bought mine from a store that sells (new) car parts.

Samo7

What's with the title? A little misogynistic?