My engine oil analysis
#21
Sorry I haven’t responded
Any more updates?
pulled my oilpan off and hd coolant stuck to the bottom of it and various conponents inside..
did a very crude pressure test on the cooler and seemed ok, no hissing or loss of pressure into the crankcase.
do you have any loss of coolant with the new cooler and did you test the old one?
pulled my oilpan off and hd coolant stuck to the bottom of it and various conponents inside..
did a very crude pressure test on the cooler and seemed ok, no hissing or loss of pressure into the crankcase.
do you have any loss of coolant with the new cooler and did you test the old one?
#22
I was in fact looking at the trans oil cooler, so I received the correct part after all! Due to time constraints (work & kids) I haven't been able to tackle this job yet, this is my only vehicle at the moment and I'm not sure how long it'll take me to complete the job. That being said, I'm looking for a 'beater car' so I can get around while the A8 gets worked on. I'll also be replacing my belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley. Glad to hear it worked out for you, wondering if I should pull and clean my oil pan too now?
#23
I was in fact looking at the trans oil cooler, so I received the correct part after all! Due to time constraints (work & kids) I haven't been able to tackle this job yet, this is my only vehicle at the moment and I'm not sure how long it'll take me to complete the job. That being said, I'm looking for a 'beater car' so I can get around while the A8 gets worked on. I'll also be replacing my belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley. Glad to hear it worked out for you, wondering if I should pull and clean my oil pan too now?
#24
if you have coolant in your oil, the trans cooler replacement won’t help that issue. You’ll need the engine oil cooler. The trans cooler should be a relatively simple replacement. I don’t believe anything is mounted below it that needs to be removed. You’ll have to pinch off the coolant lines into the trans cooler though. That way you don’t have to drain and refill the entire cooling system, which you do need to do for the engine oil cooler, at least on the S8, I assume the 4.2 is similar in configuration.
#25
From my repair guide:
If alternator sticks in retainer, screw bolt back in again down to the last 2 turns.
Tap carefully on bolt heads with flat side of hammer to release bushes of alternator mount.
#26
AudiWorld Super User
I had a similar problem, I had to remove it for the oil cooler leak, and I just leveraged a big screwdriver in there and wiggled it until it came out. Once out, I ended up reinstalling the screws and using a dead blow to push the bushings out just a bit to make re-installation easier. I used a jack to position it on re-installation, it's too heavy to hold and get everything lined up and fiddle with the screws! You can get that top screw out, but it's very particular to work it around the fan.
#27
The bottom bolt fit through an opening in the fan housing just enough to be pulled out. The top bolt hits the fan housing squarely and without removing the fan, I think I might have to push on the fan housing with a crowbar to facilitate room, although I'm probably too cautious to do this. I can swing it back and forth but I think not having the top bolt out completely is holding it back. Good tip on installing it, I can already tell it's heavy! I'll take another look it.
#28
just bite the bullet and pull the nose and the fans off, makes it much easier. And yes, you thread the bolts back in till almost tight and smack them with a hammer to push the threaded inserts back a small bit and it will allow the alternator to slide right out once you pull the bolts out. The threaded inserts bind on the back of the alternator and hold it in place after the bolts are out, so you will want to tap on the heads of the bolts to loosen them up a bit. I didn’t at first and struggled and pryed. But it wouldn’t come out, i was able to get the bolts out at first with fans in place, but then I pryed on the alternator and wedged it so bad I could not get it out or get the bolts back in to smack them. So I guess you can try to pull the bolts with the fan in place, but beware. And make sure you smack those bolts back before you try to remove them or you’ll be stuck. It’s so much easier with the fan and radiator out of the way.
#29
Ok, so I now have the nose off but has anyone been able to do this with the nose on? If so, what did you use to whack the alternator bolts in such a tight area?
I know the manual may not be perfect, but I'm curious how they think this can be done when they make no mention of 'prying' on the alternator!
I know the manual may not be perfect, but I'm curious how they think this can be done when they make no mention of 'prying' on the alternator!
#30
I thought the manual calls for the radiator to come out too? But you will see once you give those bolts a whack, the alternator will almost fall out. Prying is unnecessary. I don’t know what you can get in there with to smack the bolts, but knowing what I know now, I’m sure there’s a way to hit those bolts back with the radiator in place, but it’s super right in there, and you won’t knwo if you’re successful until you go to pull out the bolts. Once the radiator was out, it was much simpler, and knowing now how to disconnect the hoses, it’s definitely the way to go. No more fighting.