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Oil cooler coolant leak

Old 12-10-2014, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for feedback. My coolant leak happens during cooling/sitting cycle and is significant. It dumps 1 to 2 inches (measured on the coolant reservoir) over a couple of days short distance drives. Leaves very noticeable puddles on the ground. The point about plastic vs metal tube and O-rings is well taken. I believe the metal part uses double O-rings on each side compared to Audi's single O-ring which may help address that issue. Am I correct? Anyway, anyone know of a shop in NH, VT or Boston Area that is willing to do this repair?
Old 12-10-2014, 09:16 AM
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You seem to be quite knowledgeable about the A8/D3. What type of stop leak did you use? When my D2 leaked, I used a stop leak but that seemed to restrict the motion of the solenoids in the auxiliary water pump valves and that car now needs a long time to warm up the interior and the air never gets fully hot. Could be coincidence, but happened right after adding the stop-leak. By, the way, I have a post on the D2 since it drains the battery due to the center console lights not shutting down (dome lights and headlights all shut down after time interval but not the center console lights). Do you know anything about what solenoid/timer controls that function?
Old 12-10-2014, 09:58 AM
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I think any sort of leak stop type fluid works by reacting with oxygen? When it starts seeping out holes, it coagulates. I am sure it also alters the viscosity a little bit so it could clog valves, or maybe there are air bubbles trapped in the valves. Maybe just mix a batch of high temp epoxy with a flex agent and pour it all over the pipe! Snake it down into place, no expensive labor required!

As for NE shops, when I lived near Boston, I used the guys at Enhanced Street Performance, way out in Leominster, but good guys. Where are you located?
Old 12-10-2014, 10:59 AM
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I would call around and try and find a shop that is capable of doing the repair. I also would purchase the aluminum part with double o-rings (I purchased this part and used it in my 04). Aluminum has a much lower thermal expansion coefficient than most plastics, and should last the lifetime of your vehicle.
Old 12-11-2014, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
seal anything, how does the chemical know where to seal? it just sticks to anything that it can stick to or seals anything thing it found? Now that's scary. Just wait until leaks a lot then replace the pipe. Someone up here did it, not easy, but not hard either, just need to remove and loosen many things that's in the way of bolts and nuts. I wouldn't use the aluminum tube either, I don't think Audi engineers didn't think of metal tube, it's the heat and the rubber ring. Aluminum dissipate heat slower than the plastic tube heat. The rubber ring would be exposed to heat longer every time you drive and park, off and on. Aluminum will expand and contract with heat, then the ring will be compressed and released more often. The rubber ring will go quicker although you have your "Non broken pipe", you will have oil and coolant mix as soon as your after market rubber ring goes out due to heat, compressed and uncompressed. I remember I used to hate thermodynamics and materials classes, but I still remember some... hopefully it's correct.

Cheers,

Louis
Good points and thorough explanations. Some points I agree and few I don't. Audi just like every automaker makes money of repairs and maintenance im sure they wouldn't make the parts lifetime. Porsche had issues with the plastic coolant pipe under the intake manifold on their V8 engine and was later forced by the gov after several lawsuits to upgrade the pipe the aluminum which would last longer. With BMW other local engineers came up with the quick disconnect pipe to reduce the labor while improving the life of the pipe/orings.

It would be good if everyone who has used the gruvent part or Bufkin part report to use how things are holding up.
Old 05-23-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mishar
I used some stop leak and I am happy I saved $1300.
Well, it's leaking now again and now it's my problem. I surely don't have the money to put it in the shop for a repair.
Old 05-23-2018, 07:52 PM
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Sorry Jack, it's better to cut loss and move on with all the fixings needed, especially you can't do many of them yourself. At least, it lasted 4 years.
Louis

Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 05-23-2018 at 07:58 PM.
Old 05-23-2018, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
Sorry Jack, it's better to cut loss and move on with all the fixings needed, especially you can't do many of them yourself. At least, it lasted 4 years.
Louis
I just got the car, I've put maybe 500 miles on it since I got it here in California. This thing has turned out to have a lot of issues needing addressing...I'll handle it, but it might take me extra time, I'm an idiot that makes up for it by being meticulous. I also swear a lot. If I can do a full timing belt job without instruction, I'm sure I can power through this as well, even if I hate it the whole time.
Old 05-23-2018, 09:21 PM
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Well, slowly but surely you'll get them done... and done correctly I'm sure. I'm too very meticulous in everything I do.
Cheers,
Louis
Old 05-23-2018, 09:55 PM
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Thanks Louis! It'll get done, just expect me to bop around here looking for advice or tips along the way! No shame in asking for help when tackling a new task, no need for it to be more troublesome than it has to be.

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