Dvorack

I actually did this repair without removing the engine.
took me a full 2 days,with the car on jack stands.
Remove every thing thats blocking acces to the oil cooler, that means alternator,engine mount.
now you can acces 4 of the 5 bolts.
The fifth bolt is the one behind a coolant pipe on top of the oil cooler, for this one i used a good quality hex key and made a slot in it that would fit the coolant pipe til i could reach the bolt .
From there on its pretty strait foreward.
The only thing that i forgot to put back was that one single bolt that you cant reach behind that coolant pipe😎.
Its over 1.5 year ago now and its stil good.

Mister Bally

It added a few hours to a repair job that included replacing the lock carrier, radiator, cooling fans, crash bar, valve cover gasket and engine vibration dampener/mount. All due to an unfortunate meeting between the car and a new in box hot water tank on a highway, in a travel lane during a snowstorm.

I replaced the coolant pipe as a preventative measure. The old one was intact and not leaking but broke like an egg shell with light pressure. Engine was not removed

Jack88

Ah, well done. I remember when you talked about that particular incident! You really were lucky it wasn't worse! I do have a leaky valve cover but I think the motor mount is okay, doesn't appear to be torn. I'm not sure what all Mishar replaced on the car when he had it. I'm glad to hear it can be done, even if it is a pain in the neck. I just want to get everything sorted on the car so I can enjoy it and not worry. That little pipe will be here next week, so I plan to leave it as it is on jack stands in the mean time, since I already have it partially disassembled for the CV joint, upper control arms, and brakes. What's adding one more thing to the to do list, right? I still have not planned on when to do the leaky valve cover gasket or the seals in the mechatronix, and a few other less difficult things. Slowly getting there, though! Knowing the mileage yours is at Mister Bally is why I feel okay putting this much time into a car with 150k on it. After all, it still looks good and drives nice, even needing those things. Should be even better back together.

Jack88

My only real question is how to remove the motor mount. I'm assuming I have to use a floor jack somewhere under the motor to support it while it's removed. The instructions I have advise using a device to support it from above and I can't find anything on here about the actual procedure people have been using. Forgive me if the answer is obvious once the job is underway, I'm trying to figure out how the whole job is supposed to go before it's apart, for once!

MP4.2+6.0

Actually, adding to your question--maybe Mister Bally knows? Motor is supported in part on the other (driver's) side mount, plus it is effectively supported at the back via the tranny mounts. But, does the motor remain supported at the torque mount (assuming it is not replaced like Mister Bally did per the pictures)? Or, is the torque mount in turn bolted to the huge plate with the oil cooler--or something else that has to come out? In other words, does the torque mount normally stay in place to help support the engine from further forward of the main mount on this side, even with main passenger side motor mount out?

Jack88

And I just don't know! For all I know, it isn't even under any load, and is only there to resist movement from it's resting position. I did message Mister Bally, but I haven't gotten a response. He's a busy guy and it's a holiday weekend, though.

MP4.2+6.0

The torque mount is not under load at rest, but the main mount definitely is. The motor weight rests on it. What I don't know if both are attached at the same common bracket. If they aren't, in practice I think the torque mount will end up picking up the load if the main mount is removed temporarily.

Jack88

That would make the job easier. In any case, it looks like I need to wait until Monday so I can call a dealer and the part numbers for the oil cooler seal(s) and alternator seal(s.) They don't seem to come up on ECS's website, at least not going through the categories or for a basic search. I don't know, maybe my search skills have gotten more than a little rusty!

MP4.2+6.0

Use one of the Euro EKTA sites to pull part #'s and see the "real" dealer diagrams. Like: Online Audi vehicles spare parts catalogue, Audi VIN decoder, Part number search, *** Online

Jack88

Okay, that got me the oil cooler bits, but not the alternator ones! I may have to wait until Tuesday to call a dealer and find out. I did see a video where the mechanic removed the crossmember and motor mount but not the alternator. Not sure the best way to safely support the motor following this route or if I should go the route of removing the alternator. Still waiting on parts, still trying to figure the best approach. When I'm done, I will try to document the reassembly and post part numbers, since those photos shown in reverse will show how to do the job. Hopefully that will make it easier for anyone else tackling it in the future, since this looks like an inevitable issue on these cars.

On an unrelated note, is this the only seal needed to be replaced in the transmission? Mine seems to be a bit erratic and oversensitive at low speeds, but does not slip or have rpm fluctuations that I've noticed, and this again seems to be suspected as a common issue. 09E325443A