Oil Non-Return Valves
#1
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Oil Non-Return Valves
Has anyone on the board ever changed their non-return valves located under the intake manifold in the valley pan area of the engine. I've found some of the earlier engine videos but haven't found anything for the newer (mine is 2010 4.2FSI) V8s. I am thinking about changing mine but am looking for some insight before diving in?
#2
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I changed mine when I did the oil filter housing orings. If you've had the intake manifold off before, it's not that much more work. You'll also need the valley pan gasket. It's located under that.
This greatly reduced my start up chain clattering.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...et/079103161j/
This greatly reduced my start up chain clattering.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...et/079103161j/
#3
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Did your engine have the large valley pan or the smaller one near the rear of the engine close to the throttle body? If it is the smaller valley unit does the engine still have a non-return valve way up at the front of the engine?
Sorry for the long winded response, I'm just having a really hard time finding info about the newer 4.2FSI
Sorry for the long winded response, I'm just having a really hard time finding info about the newer 4.2FSI
#6
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I did not change, but just inspected mine for sticking open when i was walnut blasting, and changing the oil filter housing seals and pan valley gasket. if your 2010 has a plastic intake manifold, it should be the same setup as my later in the year 2009.
You would change the check valve that is taken out here, and also the other round valve just south of it in the picture if you suspect an issue. If i had another week to wait around for parts i might have just changed mine as well as preventative maintenance. You will need to get a new pan valley gasket as it is metal and crushes to seal.
Here are some pictures:
You would change the check valve that is taken out here, and also the other round valve just south of it in the picture if you suspect an issue. If i had another week to wait around for parts i might have just changed mine as well as preventative maintenance. You will need to get a new pan valley gasket as it is metal and crushes to seal.
Here are some pictures:
#7
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That's great, thank you for the pictures. Any chance you know what type of timing chain guides these later engines have? I've seen many posts with very cheap brittle looking black plastic guides(usually broken) and then I've seen others with aluminum guides faced with a white plastic? I would think the aluminum units are better as they would snap as easily?
I'm hoping it has this style.
I'm hoping it has this style.
Last edited by 2010A8Lsport; 05-01-2019 at 06:12 PM.
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#8
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That's great, thank you for the pictures. Any chance you know what type of timing chain guides these later engines have? I've seen many posts with very cheap brittle looking black plastic guides(usually broken) and then I've seen others with aluminum guides faced with a white plastic? I would think the aluminum units are better as they would snap as easily?
Last edited by Sci-fi_Wasabi; 05-01-2019 at 07:40 PM.
#9
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FWIW, these parts are literally ground zero for the apparent D4 and C7 4.0T turbo issues. 4.0T take off point was supposedly the 4.2FSI. Below is a picture and part # for the 4.0T that I pulled from the D4 board. If this happens to be the same part as in the 4.2FSI, I would definitely change them if you are in there already. The 4.0T issue is that a filter screen in it is apparently clogging and the turbo bearing oil circuit is somehow downstream or in line with it.
4.0T check valve as revised
4.0T check valve as revised
#10
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I read a little further in, I had no idea that there were also valves mounted in the heads under each valve cover. I will have to investigate those as it could explain why I have a tick coming from one head and not the other.
Does anyone have any experience replacing these valves?
Does anyone have any experience replacing these valves?