Pinch bolt replacement
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Pinch bolt replacement
I suffered my first air spring failure. Sending off to be rebuilt. I damaged the pinch bolt a little removing to pop the UCA.
I have looked and searched. All I see is the entire knuckle.
Does anyone know the number or a source for the bolt and nut?
I have looked and searched. All I see is the entire knuckle.
Does anyone know the number or a source for the bolt and nut?
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Bolt and nut are pretty much dealer only, and attempts to ru down at specialty stores typically come back empty. Should always be replaced for any job given tendency to corrode. Also use anti seize paste on bolt shaft. Hopefully that's all you mean by damage. If any part of knuckle was damaged/cracked/broken it is a goner, and painful to replace.
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just threads.
Bolt and nut are pretty much dealer only, and attempts to ru down at specialty stores typically come back empty. Should always be replaced for any job given tendency to corrode. Also use anti seize paste on bolt shaft. Hopefully that's all you mean by damage. If any part of knuckle was damaged/cracked/broken it is a goner, and painful to replace.
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Once you are in there, consider replacing sway bar links if they have more than 50-70K miles. Easy job. <$60 now for set in Lemforder from rmeuropean.com Inspect upper control arm bushings assuming you pulled the assembly. You get a way better sense of bushings moving them around with the pinch bolt loose or assembly removed. You will also want to get (or have) 4-5 fender liner push pins/rivets if you pull that.
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
9 & 10. Click image to see it more clearly.
Once you are in there, consider replacing sway bar links if they have more than 50-70K miles. Easy job. <$60 now for set in Lemforder from rmeuropean.com Inspect upper control arm bushings assuming you pulled the assembly. You get a way better sense of bushings moving them around with the pinch bolt loose or assembly removed. You will also want to get (or have) 4-5 fender liner push pins/rivets if you pull that.
Once you are in there, consider replacing sway bar links if they have more than 50-70K miles. Easy job. <$60 now for set in Lemforder from rmeuropean.com Inspect upper control arm bushings assuming you pulled the assembly. You get a way better sense of bushings moving them around with the pinch bolt loose or assembly removed. You will also want to get (or have) 4-5 fender liner push pins/rivets if you pull that.
Hit a dip in the road a little fast couple weeks back. No air (aTomic) but did work the suspesion a little. Light came on 50 miles later. Drops in 30 minutes once parked. But did air up enough to move around from driveway to garage.
Live and learn.
BTW Sunset Audi referred the same part numbers. That drawing is hard for ME to follow which bolt is the pinch bolt.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
I had the bushings and links replaced when I purchased the car. There is about 25K on them. Loosened the bottom of the link to allow knuckle to drop down a little further. Arms feel tight.
Hit a dip in the road a little fast couple weeks back. No air (aTomic) but did work the suspesion a little. Light came on 50 miles later. Drops in 30 minutes once parked. But did air up enough to move around from driveway to garage.
Live and learn.
BTW Sunset Audi referred the same part numbers. That drawing is hard for ME to follow which bolt is the pinch bolt.
Hit a dip in the road a little fast couple weeks back. No air (aTomic) but did work the suspesion a little. Light came on 50 miles later. Drops in 30 minutes once parked. But did air up enough to move around from driveway to garage.
Live and learn.
BTW Sunset Audi referred the same part numbers. That drawing is hard for ME to follow which bolt is the pinch bolt.
Got it. FWIW w/ a dealer order you may want the shock connector too. Part 5 here. You can't get it through th grommet once installed, so either grommet gets torn, you half *** splice it, or replace end connector. Once you get used to shattering the plastic with a pair of pliers (or cutting w/ knife if not heat soaked brittle), you just extract the terminals from the old connector, pass them through grommet, and put into new connector.
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