viper04

Guys I think I may have a bad "Radiator Fan Control Module" Yesterday after coming home and starting up the car to go to the gym I notice that the fan was running on high, and the car was ice cold, so I turned off the Ignition and the fan were still running. At that point I just disconnected the battery. Later on after the gym. I pull the codes and what I got was 18080 P1672 Coolant fan control 1 (open or short to ground) No MIL light. I check the Ross-Tech site and there was no Fault Codes for that. What I found that was this. Code 18068/P1660

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...8/P1660/005728

My question is 1. where is the "Radiator Fan Control Module" located and 2 as any one have this happen (Fan running on high Ignition OFF) and what was the solution. I know it not the coolant sensor, or the Engine Control Module Power Supply Relay J271, or Fuses. both are new and fuses are good. All input welcome. Thanks.

Mister Bally

The problem you describe is a symptom of a defective coolant temperature sensor. On the 4.2 BFM engine it is at the back of the engine buried down installed in a pipe. Use VCDS to determine the fault.

Mine would run on high speed on startup and continue after shutdown for 20 minutes.

I have to add that after I replaced the sensor, the fans still ran at high speed and temp gauge showed stone cold. I then cleared faults with VCDS and all became proper.

viper04

Mister bally
Thanks for the reply, I replaced it, thinking it was it. Only a $20 part and pretty easy to do, but no luck. Also did the the Control Module Power Supply Relay J271. Faults I'm getting using the VCDS is "18080 P1672 Coolant fan control 1 (open or short to ground)" Thanks for the input.

mishar

Fan control module is integrated in the fan. Try cleaning that harness. Also check 5A fuse 17 on the fuse panel C (dashboard right side).

jandreas

The replacement of this is not too bad but hopefully you have a timing belt replacement coming up as the level of disassembly required is not all that much more. You will have to drain the coolant system to get this out... On your new fan, check the bolt holes as soon as you get it. My new OE fan should have never passed QC, one of the holes was not threaded. I already had the right size tap so it wasn't as bad as it could've been! The cheapest price I found was 537.87 from Sunset Imports. You might be able to getaway with just removing the fuse and relying on the other fan to cool the engine.

viper04

Jandreas
Thanks for the reply, I was about to take care of the timing belt replacement but wanted to take care of any issue before doing it and this came out of no were. Did you having the same issue fan running even when the car was off? From the looks of it, it seem to sit inside the fan. Only one of the fan is running.

viper04

Mishar, jandreas and Mister Bally
Thanks for posting the info on the Radiator Fan Control Module. I end up picking one up from the guy I have been getting my camera stuff from. Paid $100 for it. Will have my buddy do it, this week when he does my timing belt install, save me from doing it. Thanks again guys.

Kiter

Please help me , I have the same problem writes me the same error P1672 Coolant Fan Control 1 ( open or short to ground ) helped fan replacement ?

A8Pete

Just found this thread. Its a little old but sounds similar to my problems.

I have a 2004 Audi A8 D3 4.0 TDI

When I switch on the ignition within a few seconds the high speed cooling fan starts. The fan stays on when the engine is running even though the engine is cold. When I swicth the engine off and take the key out the fan runs for a few seconds (about ten seconds) and then switches off.

Here's the VCDS error codes I get.

18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1
P1672 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 651 /min
Torque: 105.3 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Duty Cycle: 9.9 %
Voltage: 13.45 V
Duty Cycle: 9.9 %
Duty Cycle: 9.9 %
Temperature: 54.9°C

Which fix should I look for?

Is this a (1) control module, (2) fuse, or (3) temperature sensor or something else?

Many thanks

tjf

I just went through this (see thread "Radiator Cooling Fans"). It was a bad fan, which apparently puts the other fan into a protection mode, where it runs full speed if there is any heat at all in the motor. The drive for the fan is located with the fan motor.