ismace

i sprayed water from the rear windshield and saw water flowing into the lower battery compartment via the lower red arrow. couldn't find the part no for that. its a plastic cover with rubber flaps attached. looks like i need to remove the rear bumper before this part can be changed.

its a great car to drive but i'm having one problem after another.

MP4.2+6.0

Again, I suspect, symptom not the issue. It is just running out where you say, but it has to get into and below the trunk trim first. I stand by what I said in preceding post. I also know the part you say, and have a pic somewhere. I found it when I pulled my rear bumper cover to install the trailer hitch structural member. Those vents are classic A8 hyper complexity stuff--they are symmetrical on both sides.

Specifically it is how they implement "flow through ventilation." That is a concept that goes all the way back to my 1973 Audi 100LS that used to have simple holes punched in the bottom of the back of trunk. What happens is air enters all the way from front AC system (or windows). It then goes back through some vents/grates in the back hat shelf deck area. Then it goes through trunk and in to those vertical grates you see on the two sides of the trunk ⅔ of the way in. Finally it works its way through the sides and exits at those grates, which have little fragile plastic louver doors that open with the air flow. It is down there both to be concealed and I think to take advantage of low air pressure back there when the car is cutting through the wind stream. Yes, if grate were totally screwed up, I suppose water could come up through it. But what it is not tied to is the roof and its draining--different general set ups and way they function.

Pothole5000

Those flaps are also there to mitigate the pressure wave in the cabin when slamming the doors, they were on my A4 also.

Mister Bally

My first car, a '74 VW Super Beetle (type 113) had "Astro Vents" for so-called ventilation. Funny that it was best to crack a window open to easily slam the door shut when inside the car.

Car was stolen in 1981. Found it a couple weeks later stripped as I beefed up the engine with larger pistons and a wild camshaft. Also removed the fabled "Automatic Stickshift" and replaced it with a good old 4 speed stick.

Photo is a memory of the car that I pried off after it was found.

ismace

Finally got the rear seat entertainment working again. Got a used trailer unit with a -E and that fixed the problem.

nysid2007

So you didn't have to code in anything with VAGCOM? just wondering
if I need that module too since mines are turned off.

MP4.2+6.0

If box is unplugged, went swimming or various other things, RSE doesn't work. You don't see any power on the DVD drive unit in the trunk either as another clue.

ismace

I just plugged the replacement module. I didn't put in any code via Vagcom. RSE worked again.

ModestW12

Based on reading this thread, I'm pretty sure My 08 W12 rear seat entertainment (RSE) controller is dead. The RSE DVD changer in trunk's driver side cubby appears to have no power, makes zero sound ever, and no response from cartridge eject button, reset hole, or reseating power connector.

All other trunk cubby components are operating without issues including Nav DVD, Sirius radio, TV tuner (write up with great pics/video this weekend!), amps, etc., and all the fuses are good (#16 in driver front fuse panel and #12 in battery side trunk fuse panel) so I don't think it's a power issue.

The RSE monitors in headrests power on via button or remote but only show blue screen instead of Audi RSE splash screen. The screen menu can be operated via buttons or remote but no response when trying DVD play commands. Still, from what I have gathered so far, this is typical of when RSE controller dies.


I found a used RSE controller part # 4E0 907 383C but it is out of a Q7 despite the identical part number as for a D3 A8. Anyone have any experience replacing their RSE controller with one from a Q7?


If no experience, opinions are welcome as to whether you think it will or will not work. I've read they double as tow controllers without any coding/programming so maybe the electrical functions are so basic that it will work across car builds.

MP4.2+6.0

I am not convinced it is the controller. When I would unplug mine, it would kill the screens too IIRC. But been too long to be 100% sure of my memory on that. Did kill the DVD player unit in trunk for 100% sure, since when I had trailer controller active, I had to unplug RSE controller since they would just not co exist together correctly for some reason.

Yes, the trailer controller is the same. Personal experience w/ that. Pulled off the Westfalia sticker and I found the same "C" module as in my vehicle for the RSE originally. Same exact plugs too. The wiring harness destinations are different for each, though from doing the trailer wiring install they did overlap some.