snapdragon

Thanks atomic & mishar.
Finally got around to popping out the 3 plastic retainers and plugs and lifted off the rubber seal and plastic slam panel trim, and the problem was the spring was exactly as in the photo - so bent a new end on the spring and refitted as in the photo, then some brake cleaner and white grease and a quick vacuum of the detritus and all back to normal.
Must have failed for the previous owner - wish I'd done this 3 years ago when I took ownership as it was a 10 minute fix (told the wife it was all morning) and I envisioned remove the batter and drive motor and opening wallet for some expensive part. I might just retrofit the electric trunk open/close motor now.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

My trunk soft close spring broke, couldn't find the spring. Size?
Thanks,
louis

Panelhead

Mine quit working a couple of years ago. Was getting my rear end kicked by the Trifecta (ABS, PB, traction control) lights and small stuff was ignored. Trying to get things sorted.

Panelhead

Spring is fine. Motor runs when tripping the latch. Tried tightening up on black plastic adjuster. But cable appears to not be connected to the motor. No movement when motor is running. Can actuate soft close by manually pulling the cable.
Is motor next to the battery? Want to see if disconnected or if dogknot fell off.
Never adjusted mine, did not knot Audi included a cable tension adjuster to allow for stretch.
Has anyone worked on the motor?

aTOMic

Bummer! I haven't had mine apart beyond the spring, but it seems like there were several of us who had the soft-close fail around the time this thread started. IIRC some people had to sand some sort of clutch disc in the trunk closer motor, and I think someone even used a self-adhesive sandpaper disc to rejuvenate his clutch (i.e., stuck the sandpaper to the clutch disc as a new friction surface!)
Thanks for the update.

Panelhead

Must be behind the battery. Pulled short actuating cable out with a bare end. Poster below said if cable breaks you need a motor and striker plate. Sounds like Audi. Twenty dollar cable breaks and you need to spend a 1000 for motor and striker plate to get the cable. Hopes spring eternal that I can crimp on a lug to repair.
Once wife leaves for work I will pull the battery to see what else is in the way.

By the length of the cable the motor must be close

Panelhead

The soft close is one part. Striker plate, cable, and actuator. But sells for 500.00. Available for 350.00 plus tax and shipping.
Ordered a tested used one off eBay for 36.00. May outlast me.

dvs_dave

Soft close latch pull down motor comes as a complete assembly including the latch. Mine failed in the same way, the ferrule came off the cable inside the motor. I tried repairing it, but it’s very particular with respect to exactly where the ferrule is on the cable, so it didn’t end up working correctly.

Anyway, used ones off eBay are very cheap so I just replaced the whole thing. Get a later model one, and it has a few subtle mods over the early ones, like a thicker gauge return spring, larger ferrule on the cable etc. For info, the motor is in a foam case, stuffed in behind the battery. Battery has to come out for access. Easy job though.

Panelhead

First used assembly had the latch pulled down. Cannot get it to release and let post to be pulled up by spring. Cannot hear the motor running. Assume dead on arrival.
I have not driven the car. Will drive a little before returning and getting a newer replacement.
Think this failed on the previous owner. The foam had been split and taped up with black electrical tape.

Panelhead

Visible damage. Cable is damaged right above the adjuster. There are several available on eBay.