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Stripped Valve cover bolt

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Old 06-11-2018, 10:48 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
You can't drill a hole because lacking of space? I got mine done with $3 bit but mine was in the open. It's the best way IMO.




Cheers,
Louis
I was responding to the previous post, don't have a welder so I can't try that!
Old 06-11-2018, 06:01 PM
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"No Dave" that was 4.2 D2 many moons ago. I'll drive the D3 for another year or 2. I'll do it if it lasts until then. I'm going to give the car to my brother since he likes Audi but can't afford it and doesn't like to learn how to fix things, some people like to sit in Starbucks staring at nothing instead of reading something productive. He's perfect for his Hyundai Sonata. Who you are is what you get
Cheers,
Louis
Old 06-11-2018, 06:07 PM
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Well, my 3/32 bit was meant for wood and it got chewed up by the bolt. I have to buy one tomorrow that will work and I think I can get an extractor in there and get the bolt out. A new bolt has been ordered. In the mean time, I managed to also damage the threads on the lower control arm ball joint end trying to get that out, I didn't know you were supposed to leave the nut on if you were going to try to use a hammer to encourage it to separate. The rest of the suspension being apart means the knuckle was bouncing all over the place and I couldn't get it out anyway. I'll have to wait until I am reassembling the suspension and then I'll worry about getting it off to have the new bushings pressed in. A thread cutter should fix it, but it's just another pain in the behind.
Old 06-11-2018, 06:47 PM
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I think you should stop before you make more mistakes and make yourself miserable.
Cheers,
Louis
Old 06-11-2018, 07:41 PM
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whoa, whoa, whoa. Hold on there guys/. why are you guys drilling holes in the torx bolt? I did my passenger side valve cover gasket today. It was not that bad of a job. I did feel that the rear lower bolt might have stripped using a 90 degree angled torx so I slid in one of these bolt extractors before it stripped. it worked great. go to sears, if there is still one open near you can buy a bolt extractor. It will take less time then drilling it out. You do need to put a little pressure against the extractor so I wedged a large screw driver/pry bar between the extractor and the heat shield until it got a good bite. I used a gear wrench on the extractor to loosen the bolt.

Old 06-12-2018, 07:10 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
I think you should stop before you make more mistakes and make yourself miserable.
Cheers,
Louis
I have no choice. I can't afford to go to a mechanic. And it's too late, I'm miserable. I really want to get this thing back together and running right. None of this would be too bad if Audi didn't require unique tools every three steps that cost $200 or more each.
Old 06-12-2018, 07:32 AM
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I think you should fix what's necessary, all others let them be. You bought an old car, can't make it by the book, like new because it's not economically sound IMHO.
The next thing you do, you should have some references of good write up, real life experience and not from the manual. Some of us are not born to fix cars.
I think I replaced every part of the suspension on my A8 D2 and D3 is not much different except for the air shock.



Cheers,
Louis

Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 06-12-2018 at 09:01 AM.
Old 06-12-2018, 11:04 AM
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No one's born to fix cars, you have to learn! Part of the process is running into problems and surprises. A lot of things I'm running into are because it's my first time doing these kinds of repairs, I'll be smarter for next time. I did have better luck with the Mercedes, funny enough. So far my most time consuming problems have been related to finding new problems I can't abide. As far as making the car like new, it isn't my goal, but I do plan to drive it for at least a couple years here and things that don't work the way they are supposed to drive me mad, so I'm doing it as much for my own sanity as anything. The oil cooler leak and CV boot had to be handled, though, by anyone's standard.
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