Time For New Brakes - What's the correct process?
07-17-2017, 06:38 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Time For New Brakes - What's the correct process?
I have a 2007 A8L and have recently felt a minor shimmy in the steering while braking.. First question - can the rotors be turned if they're in tolerance? Second question - from reading other posts it seems that there are times when you have to plug in the VCDS and reset the sensors? I've also heard that some people have been able to replace a four corners, pads and rotors, and not had to use the VCDS at all. If this is true, then what is the proper procedure for this? I have no issue with the brake change itself, just what might pop up electronically after. I don't currently have a VCDS so any process that avoids needing one would be ideal. Thanks!
07-17-2017, 06:50 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
I have a 2007 A8L and have recently felt a minor shimmy in the steering while braking.. First question - can the rotors be turned if they're in tolerance? Second question - from reading other posts it seems that there are times when you have to plug in the VCDS and reset the sensors? I've also heard that some people have been able to replace a four corners, pads and rotors, and not had to use the VCDS at all. If this is true, then what is the proper procedure for this? I have no issue with the brake change itself, just what might pop up electronically after. I don't currently have a VCDS so any process that avoids needing one would be ideal. Thanks!
HOWEVER, it seems you jumped right away to a conclusion a shimmy = brakes. I would not make that assumption with a D3 right off the bat. First, check your suspension and prior repair history. In particular if front upper control arms were never done, done over 50K miles ago using OE/OES parts, or done almost any time using junk/no name parts, I would guess that is your likely suspect for a shimmy. You will also want to look at tie rods and the rest of the set up. About a zillion posts on them now, so read up for a while if not familiar w/ them on D3.
07-17-2017, 08:00 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
+1 on the control arms. I had a shimmy when braking at higher speeds (60+ mph) and assumed it was rotors/pads. It wasn't - it was the control arms. Inspect them and as MP says, check the age/condition of your control arms before you spend money on brakes you might not need.
07-18-2017, 04:27 AM
#4
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Yes, you can turn D3 rotors if they are still in tolerance after the machine work.
HOWEVER, it seems you jumped right away to a conclusion a shimmy = brakes. I would not make that assumption with a D3 right off the bat. First, check your suspension and prior repair history. In particular if front upper control arms were never done, done over 50K miles ago using OE/OES parts, or done almost any time using junk/no name parts, I would guess that is your likely suspect for a shimmy. You will also want to look at tie rods and the rest of the set up. About a zillion posts on them now, so read up for a while if not familiar w/ them on D3.
HOWEVER, it seems you jumped right away to a conclusion a shimmy = brakes. I would not make that assumption with a D3 right off the bat. First, check your suspension and prior repair history. In particular if front upper control arms were never done, done over 50K miles ago using OE/OES parts, or done almost any time using junk/no name parts, I would guess that is your likely suspect for a shimmy. You will also want to look at tie rods and the rest of the set up. About a zillion posts on them now, so read up for a while if not familiar w/ them on D3.
+1 on the control arms. I had a shimmy when braking at higher speeds (60+ mph) and assumed it was rotors/pads. It wasn't - it was the control arms. Inspect them and as MP says, check the age/condition of your control arms before you spend money on brakes you might not need.
07-18-2017, 04:31 AM
#5
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
As for the brake job - is there a breakdown on the steps somewhere? I searched and haven't found a step by step on the procedures. Procedures meaning what steps/precautions to take during the brake job to avoid issues with warning lights and sensors. Basically anything outside the normal brake routine. Thanks for the replies!
07-18-2017, 05:48 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
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07-18-2017, 06:43 AM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
I've spent some time in there - I've replaced the uppers on both sides and the trac bar links. This was done about 15k miles ago. At the time - the lowers looked OK. I'm also getting the "noise" for the second time when you go over a bump or uneven surface. I was able to get it resolved by spraying lubricant on the main trac bar bushings. The noise is back - even after recently re-lubricating the same bushings. I didn't use the Lemforder uppers at the time due to inventory, but used what I thought were comparable. There are times when I notice that the shimmy is not there which has made me question the brakes as an issue. I guess the next step is to put it back in the air and look at the suspension.
Given what you mention, sounds like you should unbolt the sway bar and actually look at those main bushings. They are probably the third most common failure point--after upper arms and sway bar links. Mostly reported on the early ones though. You have to replace the whole bar if those are bad, since they are permanently molded to it.
07-18-2017, 06:53 AM
#9
AudiWorld Member
I've spent some time in there - I've replaced the uppers on both sides and the trac bar links. This was done about 15k miles ago. At the time - the lowers looked OK. I'm also getting the "noise" for the second time when you go over a bump or uneven surface. I was able to get it resolved by spraying lubricant on the main trac bar bushings. The noise is back - even after recently re-lubricating the same bushings. I didn't use the Lemforder uppers at the time due to inventory, but used what I thought were comparable. There are times when I notice that the shimmy is not there which has made me question the brakes as an issue. I guess the next step is to put it back in the air and look at the suspension.
07-18-2017, 07:43 AM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Folks are indeed getting at little as 15K miles with some of the aftermarket junk, so recheck all. Some use vague names that sound Euro too, but whether Eastern European or China, there is much junk out there. Needs to be a recognized brand--Lemforder, TRW, maybe Delphi, etc. From experience, Meyle doesn't cut it as a contra.
Given what you mention, sounds like you should unbolt the sway bar and actually look at those main bushings. They are probably the third most common failure point--after upper arms and sway bar links. Mostly reported on the early ones though. You have to replace the whole bar if those are bad, since they are permanently molded to it.
Given what you mention, sounds like you should unbolt the sway bar and actually look at those main bushings. They are probably the third most common failure point--after upper arms and sway bar links. Mostly reported on the early ones though. You have to replace the whole bar if those are bad, since they are permanently molded to it.
I had always assumed (from posts here) that the bushings were one piece. Recently I discovered that mine are two piece. I completely unbolted the bracket when I went to re-lubricate the 2nd time and half the bushing came off with the bracket. Is there a part # for a replacement bushing or do I just need to size it up?
As you can see the bushings are well past their prime:
I will re-inspect the lowers - it might just be time. I'll take a look at the uppers again as well - hopefully they're not already worn out.
Thanks for the input!