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All right, every step of the way, this car is fighting me, I swear. Probably didn't help I spent 2 hours modifying a pulley puller to try to make it work but it still didn't before attempting the torque arm. I am struggling to figure out how to remove 3 bolts for the upper portion of the torque mount, since certain parts of the car are in the way. What am I missing here? I have followed Alldata's instructions to a T. You can see the third bolt I haven't touched yet but it will also rise into the housing for the bottom bolt of the air guide that is currently removed.
My experience was C5 A6 4.2 and I had the cylinder head off, so way simpler and a very different technique.
For the rear bolt already backed out but stuck in there, is it all the way out of the threads, or still engaged in them some? Thus if it is out of the threads and you undo all three, then it should slide free with the bolts still in the mounting bracket holes but not engaged. OR, even if you can't get the bracket out of there completely, can you undo the mount end on the top side (where the single big fastener is)? If so, maybe there would be enough play in that mounting bracket to get the torque mount out of there with the three bolts all loosened up.
Reply 6 from Mister Bally to this thread has a picture of what you are fighting with, but out of the car if it helps at all. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...mount-2923331/ His wife had a run in with a water heater on the road though, so he already had the front end pulled apart AFAIK in terms of how he got at it.
And there's me thinking I'm the unluckiest owner in the world...!!
Back to the shop AGAIN tonight, won't even hold air for an hour now...
Yet there's no light on the dash when driving, only both lights flashing for a few seconds on startup...
I'm done...
My experience was C5 A6 4.2 and I had the cylinder head off, so way simpler and a very different technique.
For the rear bolt already backed out but stuck in there, is it all the way out of the threads, or still engaged in them some? Thus if it is out of the threads and you undo all three, then it should slide free with the bolts still in the mounting bracket holes but not engaged. OR, even if you can't get the bracket out of there completely, can you undo the mount end on the top side (where the single big fastener is)? If so, maybe there would be enough play in that mounting bracket to get the torque mount out of there with the three bolts all loosened up.
Reply 6 from Mister Bally to this thread has a picture of what you are fighting with, but out of the car if it helps at all. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...mount-2923331/ His wife had a run in with a water heater on the road though, so he already had the front end pulled apart AFAIK in terms of how he got at it.
The rear bolt already backed out is still on some threads. I double checked Alldata and they want me to drill a hole to access the one I haven't removed yet but have backed out, and they want me to use the one I haven't touched yet as a pivot point, loosening it rather than removing it.
What are you trying to fix? You jump from one task to the next? Is this the first time you use a wrench on this car?
Yes it is the first time for this car! I'm doing a lot of things on it at once, because there is a fair amount of overlap. I've given up on the lower control arm ball joint, at this point, it will be quicker and easier to just remove the knuckle and bring it all in to have the new bushings pressed. That means I guess I will replace the driver's side CV boots after all, given the inner boot looks like it isn't long for this world.
The rear bolt already backed out is still on some threads. I double checked Alldata and they want me to drill a hole to access the one I haven't removed yet but have backed out, and they want me to use the one I haven't touched yet as a pivot point, loosening it rather than removing it.
FWIW, dealer replaced mine on the W12 while still under CPO warranty. I remember at the time the advisor telling me they had to put a bunch of hours into it to drill a hole or two to remove key bolts. I never knew exactly where they were drilled, but it sounds like what you are seeing with the 4.2 too.
FWIW, dealer replaced mine on the W12 while still under CPO warranty. I remember at the time the advisor telling me they had to put a bunch of hours into it to drill a hole or two to remove key bolts. I never knew exactly where they were drilled, but it sounds like what you are seeing with the 4.2 too.
Yep! Well, no worries, I suppose it's all part of what needs doing. I broke 2 extensions and a breaker bar trying and failing to get the passenger axle nut off. The problem stems from the immense torque needed to remove the nut and the 3/8 drive hex bit that was all I could find. So, I'll be ordering a 1/2" drive one to get it removed.
Yep! Well, no worries, I suppose it's all part of what needs doing. I broke 2 extensions and a breaker bar trying and failing to get the passenger axle nut off. The problem stems from the immense torque needed to remove the nut and the 3/8 drive hex bit that was all I could find. So, I'll be ordering a 1/2" drive one to get it removed.
I used a large Allen Wrench and 5' piece of black Iron pipe the first time I removed one of those axle bolts. I use a 3/4" drive hex socket and torque wrench to install. Then I use the pipe for the stretch bolt procedure. Always replace that bolt.
Yep! Well, no worries, I suppose it's all part of what needs doing. I broke 2 extensions and a breaker bar trying and failing to get the passenger axle nut off. The problem stems from the immense torque needed to remove the nut and the 3/8 drive hex bit that was all I could find. So, I'll be ordering a 1/2" drive one to get it removed.
My technique is ½ drive allen head tool with a ½" stubby extension, then ½ drive breaker bar attached to the extension and slipped inside of a heavy pipe 6 or 8 feet long. I support it with a jack stand at the stubby extension area to keep the allen tool square with the hex into which it fits. Even then I have to stand on the pipe to break it loose. Having broken a couple of breaker bars when I stand on it I also have that scenario in mind. So far it has bent my current Craftsman one some, but not broken it. I do it with wheel on ground BTW, but only loosen it very slightly at first to avoid bearing damage. Then jack it up and I continue. Install is the same basically in reverse, and you need the pipe again to achieve the necessary torque on the replacement stretch bolt.
06-18-2018, 03:16 PM
Torque arm removal
