When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Regarding the oil leak into the spark plug tubes. If it is like mine and many others with the v10s, it is the cam carrier to head interface. Audi sells a gasket for it, but most recommend just RTV.
Really hate having to take apart the front cover and the entire timing drive just to do this. Would be awesome if there were spark plug tube sleeves you gently tap in that would seal this gap up, similar to sleeving a worn crank main seal..
Regarding the oil leak into the spark plug tubes. If it is like mine and many others with the v10s, it is the cam carrier to head interface. Audi sells a gasket for it, but most recommend just RTV.
Really hate having to take apart the front cover and the entire timing drive just to do this. Would be awesome if there were spark plug tube sleeves you gently tap in that would seal this gap up, similar to sleeving a worn crank main seal..
Wow, I was under the impression that the oil came from the valve cover gaskets no longer sealing. At this point I'm not ready to go any further into the engine. So far, it hasn't been an issue, except for one coil, but it may have just been on its way out. Thanks for the insight!
Just some experience to share. First, finally finished cleaning all of the intake ports. I used the chemical/pick method. Worked pretty well, but was slow.
I'm glad I bought new injectors, since I damaged 4 of the 10 removing them. To get them out, I had to remove the upper o-ring and put the open end of a wrench under the lip of the injector tip. Then, I used vise grips on the wrench to pull them out. If you are reusing them, I don't recommend this method as you will most likely bend the upper portion of the injectors. Even using this method, some would not come out. The driver's side for some reason was especially difficult. For a few I had to pry them out using crow bar and the slotted hole over the injector tip. There are special tools to help remove injectors with a slide hammer, but time constraints and new injectors allowed me to be less careful. Do not pry on the plastic body of the injector as it will break like all other underhood Audi plastic. The passenger side Injectors all came out with some wiggling and patience. Once out, I found some corrosion in the aluminum/steel interface of the injectors that were stubborn. I was able to use all of the old spacers and clips on the new injectors. I also replaced the valley pan gasket, which is coated metal and the o-rings and figure eight seals on the oil filter housing that instigated this $3500 project.
Hoping to start it up tomorrow.
All injectors out. Oil filter housing gasket/o-rings. Under the valley pan. Valley pan an oil filter housing reinstalled.
Got it all back together last night and she's back! Started right up. Changed the oil and took it for a test drive. Was running pretty good so I tried a couple of 'acceleration tests'. Didn't seem right with some hesitation. Got back to my subdivision and check engine light came on, then started flashing. Hooked up VCDS and cleared multiple codes from turning it over to clean valves and some new misfire codes. Popped the hood and inspected for something I forgot to plug in, etc. Realized I didn't tighten the intake tube to throttle body clamps. Tightened them up and all is well. No codes, runs smooth, and good power. It's amazing how just a little 'stray' air can cause misfires, lean codes, and general drivability issues.
Fresh in the plastic. Extremely clean inside with 137,000 miles. Back on the road with no lights, no codes.
02-27-2018, 07:12 AM
