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Yet Another Suspension Air Compressor Issue. 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009
So driving home to day my suspension light came on. Just the yellow light is on and will not shut off. I ran a Vag Com Scan and got this. It is the only code related to the Level controls. On the MMI screen Lift and Dynamic are grayed out. Automatic and Comfort still are illuminated but when you toggle between them nothing happens. To my eyes the car is in Comfort or possibly life mode. Definitely not Dynamic. Complete scan will be shown below, The compressor is not running. I cannot hear it when I start the car. The car has been sitting for over 2 hours and as not sank. It appears to my eyes to be level. From what I have read and searched on the forum, yes I used Google before posting, it sounds like I might have a blown fuse and relay. Hopefully the compressor is not blown. I assume that my struts are good because the car is not sinking. If there was a leak the car would lower itself over time correct? Is the fact I cannot hear the motor running at all a good or a bad sign? I have an appointment to get it looked at on Wed but the shop is roughly 50 miles from me. Is it save to drive the car or am I risking damaging the compressor if it is not already toast. I am wondering is the current fault 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground, preventing the compressor from being activated and turned on making it safe to drive. Thanks in advance. Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.clb Part No SW: 4E0 910 553 K HW: 4E0 907 553 H Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC H07 4590 Coding: 0015510 Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200 VCID: 2B000E54FF05EC6F1B7-807E 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11101001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 96 Mileage: 199985 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.12.16 Chassis Type: 4E (4L0) Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 1E 34 36 37 38 42 46 47 4F 52 53 55 56 61 62 65 67 6C 72 76 77 00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 06-Seat Mem. Pass -- Status: OK 0000 07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000 0F-Digital Radio -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 1E-Media Player 2 -- Status: OK 0000 34-Level Control -- Status: Malfunction 0010 36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000 37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000 38-Roof Electronics -- Status: Malfunction 0010 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000 4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000 53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000 55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000 67-Voice Control -- Status: OK 0000 6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 76-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000 77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000 |
Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.
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Originally Posted by Jack88
(Post 25249448)
Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.
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Louis |
Originally Posted by rellascout
(Post 25249454)
So if the struts are holding air is it safe to drive to a shop 50 miles away? I have the car in jack mode and measured the height of the wheel wells and will recheck tomorrow. If it hasn’t dropped am I ok to drive it? I don’t want to burn out the compressor if it’s not already toast but would prefer not to have to tow it. |
Thanks guys. The car is holding level. Zero sinking overnight. I think I will be safe to drive it. Will be back to update the post.
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I drove mine 300 miles from a Western Chicago suburb to Detroit on pothole laden I-94 in the winter with the front right strut air bellow blown and bottomed out. Awful ride, warnings like crazy (Including headlight adjustment out of range) with no permanent damage. Had to get home.
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Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25250397)
I drove mine 300 miles from a Western Chicago suburb to Detroit on pothole laden I-94 in the winter with the front right strut air bellow blown and bottomed out. Awful ride, warnings like crazy (Including headlight adjustment out of range) with no permanent damage. Had to get home.
Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point. |
I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.
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Originally Posted by rellascout
(Post 25250767)
Mine turned on 100 miles into a 300 mile return trip home. I kept stopping to check the level.
Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point.
Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25250808)
I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.
When relays go, they may essentially arc weld closed in which case it can be pretty problematic. Compressor wants to run, no way to get at fuse and relay without tools and a bunch of dash disassembly, etc. Has happened to members occasionally over the years, and sometimes a compressor fried IIRC. |
If the pump is disabled, automatic and comfort will stay illuminated if already selected because it requires no change in ride height. Seen it before too.
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Originally Posted by rellascout
(Post 25250767)
Mine turned on 100 miles into a 300 mile return trip home. I kept stopping to check the level.
Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point. |
Originally Posted by tony51
(Post 25266258)
The fuse you speak of.is it located near the module under the steering wheel dash panel ?
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Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25266343)
Just above Relay #373 (Assuming an OEM relay is installed for the compressor) behind the dash panel (that has a knee airbag) next to he steering column.
.it pump the car up and I believe it's just stuck so I believe obviously I don't have a leak but it's not functioning at all just stuck up..(better than slammed) . the "lift"in the "dynamic" is grayed out on my MMI screen so I believe it's telling the system its at full height..so im lead to believe either a relay or fuse or just the compressor ! now if I had a compressor that timed out due to overheating(my original compressor that i still have) or this one that may have got wet, is it possible to rebuild whatever part inside that has to do with or is it toast?I know you could rebuild them but I know that's for seals for leaks |
HI guys,
Sorry to do the zombie-thread thing but I just had the same issue on my car, although the circumstances are a little suspicious. My car has been parked all summer, while, among other unrelated things, I changed the piston ring in the air suspension compressor and the air suspension fuse and relay. There was nothing wrong, I just thought I'd do some preventative maintenance. On it's first day out, after 65 miles of behaving perfectly, I stopped at a garage to have my AC regassed and, when I got the car back, a few seconds later, the air suspension light came on. Lift mode is greyed out and the compressor is not turning on. The car was level and at the right height, so I drove home and scanned with VCDS, to find the 00668 code - terminal 30 open or short to ground: Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.clb Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 553 L HW: 4E0 907 553 H Component and/or Version: LUFTFDR.-CDC H07 6340 Software Coding: 0015510 Work Shop Code: WSC 57580 001 1048576 VCID: 2C14C4248FD632E68E-8079 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11101001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 142 Mileage: 171680 km Time Indication: 0 I'm going to investigate the fuse and relay, seeing as they're likely culprits. I bought both from Audi. Is there a chance I got a dud relay or fuse? Could the AC regas process cause this? I know that sounds nuts but I'm wondering if the electrics are linked, or maybe if the long time spent with the car running sitting idle may have done it. I can't imagine the garage jacked up the car for an AC regas but I didn't see them do it, so I can't say for sure. Also, could anyone that had this issue and resolved it please say what the fix was? |
OK, so I refitted the old fuse and relay today. Cleared the fault code and the light went away. The car levelled itself fine but I think it was using the residual pressure in the tank in the back. As soon as the compressor was asked to come on (by me selecting lift mode), the fuse went pop and the amber light came back on. Reading through this thread, I saw this comment:
Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25250808)
I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.
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Not worth the repair given how cheap compressors can be had. I've personally installed two of these and instructed many members to do likewise. Just grab this unit and be worry free for years to come.
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Why do People keep replacing pumps blindly? The pump only dies if over heating due to the relay stuck close, either being faulty or monkeyed with the suspension using VCDS. My car's pump survived 2 airbags leaks incidents and still working perfectly. Yes, I was ignorant to buy the rebuild kit and it's still in the garage, a waste of money.
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Thanks guys, I've found a compressor at a slightly-less eye-watering price than Audi charges but I'll wait to diagnose it as faulty before I fire the parts canon. On the S8, it's such a pain to remove and refit! Wish me luck...
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One more question: are there any common areas that cause the compressor to overload when activated? I'll try and connect it to a separate battery out of the car, to isolate the compressor from the wiring but is there anything that jumps out as a common failure point or telltale?
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I've removed the compressor and, sure enough, as soon as it was connected to an external power source, there was a spark, there was smoke and the smell of burning. I've ordered this replacement pump, which worked out around £400 and is OEM. I think my original pump must have got damaged when I did the piston ring mod - one of the screws broke in place, so needed to be drilled out. I taped the opening but some shards of metal must have got in somewhere they shouldn't have.
Hope this helps someone out. |
Glad to see you sorted it out. I don't agree/support the compressor you went with as you spent extra money on it than you needed to vs. the one I linked.
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Thanks. I looked at the Amazon one but it’s only £30 cheaper once delivery to the U.K. is factored in. That £30 gets me a pump made by the original manufacturer, a new air filter, a temperature sensor, relay, rubber mounts and no need to wait for shipping from USA to me. All in, the OEM one from Germany seemed a better choice. Had I lived in the US, it would have been a more difficult decision.
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