PharmD29

1) I have read through quite a few of the brake discussions here and it seems that EBC Red and Power Stop brakes are the two top choices, I was leaning towards the Power Stops but any reason I should be leaning the other way? I am in sort of a weird spot at 48,000 miles, rear brakes are about 1.75mm and need to be replaced, front are at about 4.75-5mm so don't really need to be replaced but since I bought it used I am not sure if the rotors were ever changed and not sure if I need to change them or not. Have a friend at the dealer willing to do the change minus parts for $150 for me for the rear but it is kind of far away.

2) I have encountered a very strange noise that will be somewhat hard to explain but I will try. When reversing out of a parking space and then cutting the wheel all the way I sometimes get a fairly loud noise that sounds almost like I ran over an aluminum can or ran over a chunk of snow or something, it is somewhat of a thump but can easily be heard. Sometimes passengers will ask what I just ran over. It doesn't always do it but probably 33-50% of the time. When I go over speed bumps the front suspension almost sounds like old coil suspension with a sort of squeal but usually only when I hit a speed bump somewhat fast. The rear sounds normal. Any idea as to what could be wrong to cause this?

MP4.2+6.0

A fair # of questions in here:

1. I usually go to EBC reds when I do first pads. My reasons there are combo of lower dust and still retaining same OE progressive feel, which I view as good. Can't speak to Powerstop though. Regardless of choice, I would try to use the same pads/compound on all four wheels.

2. A guess is at 48K miles your front rotors are pretty well worn. But it depends a lot on driving history. If easy highway miles most of time, maybe not. Best simple indicator--besides taking a wheel off to mic them--is whether front pads have been changed or not. Original owner would know, and also likely shows in a CarFax on a used one. Rotors usually don't go more than two pad cycles from my general Audi experience. You rear set up by contrast is likely heading to its first pad change.

3. Your front pads are may be more worn than you think--from Audi's perspective. That is, the pad warning light triggered by the sacrificial sensor is probably going to turn on when you get down to 3-4mm of pad material left. If your rotors are fairly worn as I suspect, you may still just keep driving it for a while though and then do pads and rotors. Mic'ing front rotors to really know would be the best informed way to go.

4. The "clunk" can be sort of an Audi quattro thing. My 1996 C4 A6 had a strong case of it, though none of my 2000 C5, D3 or D4 have had it. Other D3 and D4 owners report it at times. If it is that generalized one, no obvious fix AFAIK.

5. The crunchies. First to go on a D4 seem to be the front sway bar links. Already a good number of posts on board they have been crapping out, not uncommonly inside the warranty period. Easy to change, not too expensive, and not hard to reach. I would start there, maybe mic'ing front rotors at same time. Next up would be the front upper control arm bushings--the ones on the inside where it bolts up. Yet another reason to pull the front wheels. To inspect those well, wheel(s) really need to be off. I take a good look at all this twice per year as I switch between summer and other wheel set ups.

BTAudi

I had the same front suspension creaking noise at 47k miles in my 13' S8. It was the sway bar end links.

I'm on my first set of rotors but will be replacing all 4 soon around 50k miles. The previous owner put the second set of stock pads on at 41k miles.

I suspect the clunking you hear when reversing and cutting your wheel are your summer tires hopping when the temperature drops. The rubber hardens causing this phenomenon.

Psy Wagon

I am suspecting sway bar links for my suspension noise over bumps when it is cold out. Will probably do that, pads and rotors in the spring. Will be doing EBC reds based on MP4s advice so thank you MP4!

Karrera4

just put EBC Reds on this past weekend and so far liking the feel. Can't comment on dust yet, but expect them to be quite a bit less than the OEM pads.

PharmD29

Where is the best place to buy the rotors and the pads? And what brand rotors? Not sure what good prices are.


Lastly, where is the best place to get end bar sway links for the front? Thanks guys!

MP4.2+6.0

Rotors: on line mail order from dealer like audiusaparts.com If you search even a bit, I have now posted a dozen times plus the S8 rotors in front are Audi only sourced, so brand debates are irrelevant. The only other (front) choice is to pay yet more $ for the machined ones that start with OE/dealer blanks from adams or brakeworld (disc italia being what I think is really their house brand).

Pads... See prior replies to this same thread. These days often just Amazon source wise. Pull the pad number via an internet search and go from there. Prices around web can vary so your own search at time of purchase is only way to be sure of current pricing. Dealer pads BTW are most likely Brembo sourced--I have seen Brembo markings on C7 S7 or S6 pads that use same set up in front. I think they are perfectly good performance wise, other than the extra dust like most OE pads.

Links: I would likely again just go dealer, more so because part #'s have been rev'ed on various fitments. That is a clue to me Audi knows these are wearing, and I would want latest revision. OES might be Lemforder--it was on D3 but it was shaped and located differently on D3's. In particular I never recommend or buy any no name or kit type supplier on anything on an A8/S8 front suspension. A lot of Eastern Euro and Chinese junk out there for "good prices"--and lots of disappointed stories over and over again about way higher failure rates and issues, even inside of 10,000 miles. Prevailing wisdom on D3 board as well where cars have a lot more miles, wear and various aftermarket parts. Only other ones besides Lemforder that arguably make the cut are well recognized brands found in some other related Audi OE parts like TRW, Delphi and a few others. Again, Audi part revisions to me trump the debate or "savings"--at least for some years until I know the OES and that their branded parts in distribution have caught up to the latest Audi part # rev.

PharmD29

So I just ordered the front rotors OEM through Audi USA Parts and I have two remaining questions:

1) Does the wear indicator need to be purchased separate or does it come with the pads or not need to be replaced?

2) Should I get OEM rotors or either of these?
https://www.carid.com/2013-audi-s8-b...562658872.html
https://www.carid.com/2013-audi-s8-b...562657827.html

MP4.2+6.0

1. Wear indicators (on each side) are separate parts. Some re use if not triggered yet and if they don't break them extracting from pads. The dealer ones are A LOT more pricy than others. Like literally 5x--$15 vs 75. OES might be Bowa, but can also find in Ate, Pagid and other respected Euro brake players.

1a. Search on my prior threads. You also need to consider the front noise dampener pieces that fit between the caliper and pads...some re use, some replace. Dealer only and pricy, usually at $200+ for set. Also the little Torx screw that holds rotor to hub. Cheap from dealer and worth replacing to minimize corrosion or stripping issues.

2. Why replacing rear rotors? (first link I opened) What are rotor measurements? Search my prior posts...? As in, usually pads only in back at your miles. ...Need rotor measurements... Again, also wear sensors back there. Need an electronic tool (VCDS, etc.) to open rear calipers given the electric parking brake set up.

PharmD29

Okay after taking a little more time I definitely am going to upgrade both sets of rotors now that I am at 55k miles. I really want either slotted or drilled but having a tough time finding front rotors like this though I know they are available. Any help here?

I upgraded rear pads to EBC Red stuff and will be doing same on front pads.