ybnormal07

So I'm getting ready to schedule an APR Stage 1 tune when a thought crossed my mind. I'm the 2nd owner of a 2013 S8. While I've driven a few others for test drive purposes, given that in stock form, the power is significant, how could you tell if the previous owner didn't already put a tune on it? I've not driven one with a tune, so have nothing to compare it to. I'm assuming there is likely a flag in the ECU to designates if the programming was modified, but how or where would I go to have this checked? I really don't want to rely on the place I'm getting the tune to tell me if it does or doesn't already as I'm not sure I could trust anyone to turn down the fee fo
r the tuning. Thoughts? I'm in SE PA if anyone is aware of a reputable shop that would scan the ECU for me to let me know.

MP4.2+6.0

No magic place you can scan yourself for the secret code or some such AFAIK.In theory you could use VCDS to monitor things like boost pressure and spark advance to see if they exceed factory spec. But even finding those spec's is not particularly easy for the 4.0T in general, and the S8 ones will be different.

Given 2013, you are out of warranty for almost all purposes. There is still the body warranty that would not be affected by a tune, and if the car came from CA or the Northeast originally, maybe parts of the emissions warranty that could be. In any case, you could take it to a dealer and specifically ask them to scan it for tunes. It will then get classed as such if they are in there--a "TD1." If essentially out of warranty, you wouldn't care much. No matter what the tuners say, basically every tune has been flagged when Audi wants to find it and looks specifically. The exceptions are (maybe) the piggyback ones using external modules that modify sensor inputs--which have not generally tested out well--and ECU's flashed fully back to stock. Not just flashed within the tune to the stock flavor, but where the tune is backed out completely by an installer.

Big picture, I would assume even in several more years very few S8's statistically will be tuned. Most original owners are demographically old for it, and half or more would have been on 3 or 4 year leases. The tunes also cost $$. The Carfax for your own car might give some clues for a lease profile.

ybnormal07

Thanks for the quick reply. I considered going to a dealer but didn't want to get flagged in some database. As for warranty, event though it is a CPO car with 100K/10 year drivetrain warranty, I'm still going with the tune. I've yet to find anyone suffering damage from an APR Stage 1, unless you know of something I haven't found? While I would prefer not to have to pay for any repairs due to putting a tune on, my desire for more power trumps the fear. Probably irrational, but I was raised on fast cars and quite simply, enjoy the thrill.
I do plan on getting a dyno baseline prior to the tune, so I guess that will provide some answers.

MP4.2+6.0

If CPO, do be sober and accept it may well blow the whole drivetrain warranty, including some of the pricy stuff that has been coming up like the PCV problem. IIRC someone may have been been hassled trying to get the 1K/3K downpipe update, though I don't recall now if that was with the Stage II APR stuff. To back tune out reliably when an issue arises where you would need dealer help, you have to get it flashed to stock, codes cleared, and then driven long enough to reset OBDII readiness codes back to ready. That takes a couple of days if done casually. Some think if you use the "stock tune" that will be okay, but that is not the case--tune has to be removed via flashing to be more comfortable if scrutinized. Thus if it ends up on a tow truck or even can't be driven regularly with a code stuck in there which won't clear (that prevents flashing), you can get cornered. Fortunately I have seen very few late mode Audis not in accidents towed or flatbedded. If you go with it, I would also get installer's commitment/pricing to do a later flash cycle and confirm they have been in business a while and seem like they will remain so. Mine is still 4/50 so stock, and then it goes CPO where I will still debate. I don't use the pre-Plus stock power it has now 99% of time. In the 1% case it has plenty for the real world of overcrowded SF Bay Area where I am.

ybnormal07

Good point on the PCV. I just read a few threads on it. While pricey for a PCV, it is within my budget. I come from a tuning background so am familiar with re-flashing to stock as needed for warranty work, emissions testing etc, and also familiar with cycling the ECU for coding clearance/reset cycles. I live out in the country, and pretty much daily have the opportunity to accelerate hard, far above the legal speed limit. NOTE to any monitoring authorities...I said "opportunity" :>).
Your words have given me cause for though though. The car is a monster as is...but I'm such a speed junky it is hard to ignore an additional +100HP just sitting there waiting on a tune or 150 with dp's and a tune. Like all such decisions, I will let it brew in the brain for a while and let my ****-type logic sort it out in my sub-conscious. It usually makes the right choice if I let it.
Besides the PCV, what else have you seen that I should be watching out for? I'm already aware of the DP shudder (I have it, don't like it, but understand the cause and while annoyed, am not worried about it). One thing I've noticed regarding manually dowshifting as that it seems above 3K rpm, when downshifting from 2nd to first, the car rev matches nicely, but below that rpm, it can downshift without the match and the car bobs accordingly. Likely a programming issue but I do find it a bit irritating.
I'm getting brake squeal at low speeds too...nothing at higher speeds. Do the brake indicators on the S8 provide audible indication when pads are worn or is this just normal for the S8? Visually it looks like I have plenty of pad left, but you know how that can be misleading, especially in a high performance system (ours are 6 pot fronts if I remember correctly??)
Any words of advice on maintenance? I'm **** so will typically exceed the mfg's schedule, and when I first need to, will usually switch to a high temp brake fluid and better pads as I've found them to be far more durable and of course, typically better for the car regardless. I usually do my own fluid and filter changes along with tire rotations...because I enjoy it and because I've seen to many issues with dealers or maintenance shops.
Apologies for the questions in advance...I recognize a good knowledge source when I see one:>)

MP4.2+6.0

Where are you located? Other thread reply mentioned buying in N.C. IIRC, but not sure where you are. Best to put in auto sig or avatar or some such. I ask because part of therapies to your questions can be (cold) weather dependent.

ybnormal07

I'm in SE PA so I do get cold weather.

MP4.2+6.0

So variously:

Besides the 1K 3K vibration and the PCV valve--neither of which I have on my 18K mile 2015, other watch areas might be:

1. Front sway bar links, sway bar bushings, and sometimes upper control arm bushings. Link design a bit different than D3, but no news in here for common wear points on heavier Audis. Listen for noises as obvious tip off. On D3's, a when not an if as they get older. But standard bolt in stuff at end of day fortunately.
2. Badly sealed/installed front windshield. Not glued properly near upper inside mirror. Appalling the factory would have screwed this up, but it has been reported on the board too many times now just to be random. Squirt with hose to check, w towel at ready.
3. The usual Audi drains that need attention at times--plenum, sunroof, etc.

So far I have none from that list or the drivetrain ones. My MMI/Nav did act up. Froze a few times and lost its location. That got me an MMI version update, which is also needed anyway for any desire to ever try updating Nav maps. Car makes periodic ticking noise near center of dash that my older ears don't hear, but my kids and others definitely do. I thought it was maybe Nav hard drive (which failed in our Q5), but dealer found nothing. Saw a thread recently that seems like the same thing saying it is the keyless system periodically looking for the key. Have yet to try it with key closer to dash, but since i can't hear it I need some of my better ear'ed co pilots on board. Nits are a broken windshield washer reservoir cap, and more recently some cracked part near the front night vision camera that causes windshield fluid to leak out near a sprayer. Happened on a winter mountain trip, even with good antifreeze fluid in it. Still needs to go in for that w/ next service or bigger item.

No shudders on mine. Shifting seems smoother and more consistent to me in D than S most of the time, and again so much power anyway it really doesn't matter. No brake noise on mine; all factory. Factory are six piston Brembo's front with pinned semi floating rotors that are similar to two piece. Brake wear is sensored, so I don't think it has the little bump on the rotors some do that wears away pad when they get thin. I will go to EBC reds when mine wear more.

Brake fluid, and why my question. Dealer should have done it under AudiCare for a couple of cycles, if it had AudiCare. AudiCare was spiffed on a lot of 2014's, so likely did. Realize the brakes use the newer low viscosity DOT 4 fluids for low temp ESP top performance. I have moved to that too, since in Tahoe winter trips and snow I can be even below 0F and ESP matters. I used to use Ate Typ 200 that had very good wet and dry temp ratings, but now use the Audi/VW stuff since Ate's LV stuff didn't stand out to me spec wise. C&D tested a bunch of fluids after they had to try to deflect blame for stuffing the Nismo into the raceway wall after suffering brake failure on their spirited earlier test. https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...-lightning-lap Turned out they did cook the fluid, and not a well designed part of that car. Ate Super Blue is mentioned there, which is same as Typ 200 except with the blue tint; Blue since banned and recalled by DOT since color is not compliant. In the testing, the Audi VW stuff did come out well in a variety of stressed track conditions. Good enough for me, and no matter what we do, it's not Autobahnen running for which these are designed and spec'ed by a wide stretch.

Folks seem to have some plug/ignition issues when tuned on the S7's and S6's, so I would definitely stay on top of those maintenance schedules if you go there. From my D3 W12 experience with twin air boxes, the air filters would get noticeably dirty by 20K. But that design was a much straighter in air flow the your typical convoluted turbo set up. Boxes are stuck under a brace on the S8, but I do plan to open one at about 20K to see how they are doing. I rotate tires w/ each winter to summer cycle and take a good look at brakes at same time. So far all good there, and zero oil consumption. Way too early for me to get into some of the long term maintenance I do at 5-8 years with deeper fluid dives, fuel filter, etc.; why I like to alternate with newer for a while too.

andrewmr

Where in SE PA are you?

Have you reached out to the guys at AWE?

ybnormal07

I have not simply because their website shows support only for S8's up MY2009. In addition, I can't locate any work they have done on 2013 S8's. They use GIAC software which I've only seen used on the track and last, they offer no warranty for their tunes. I've been by their shop, but never stopped in. Always see some radical rides in their lot:>)