When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ahhhh... I thought it was attempting to replace an 8 ohm speaker with a 2 or 4 ohm.
its open for debate as Mich chronicles above. Odd that we are each getting such different readings. I had my speaker tested with a voltmeter at a custom audio shop. Others described more elaborate tools than I have. And the internet is brimming with stories about matching speakers to amps. To me the 4-ohm speakers sounds much closer in sensitivity to the original speaker, but I might still be off on the impedance. A more efficient/sensitive speaker can produce more sound even at less power. But no way to know as even B&O customer support couldn’t/wouldn’t reveal what the specs of the speaker are. Either way, the system seems comfortable at max volume, much more than the 2-ohm configuration, and that’s good enough for me... for now anyway.
Bumping this thread with two updates to what was said previously.
1. Removing the sub.
Yes, you can remove the rear center sub through the top by only removing the clipped-in aesthetic screen and 8x Phillips head screws. No, you do not have to trim anything to get the sub out. Simply use a little bit of man strength and pull it out. The rear deck covering will flex and remain in position.
2. Sub repair.
Rather than spending hundreds of dollars finding a new or used B&O sub, or replacing it with another sub that requires modification to the tray, I would suggest an alternative to which you consider repairing the blown sub. I’m assuming several others will have the same area of concern, and the fix is extremely simple. As noted in the pic below, a portion of the sub that was previously glued from the supplier simply became unglued. Purchase some E6000, put it between the separated sections and wait at least 24 hours (preferably 48) before testing and reinstallation.
What the sub should look like:
What mine looked like on the other side:
There are three materials glued together here from the supplier. In the pic above the top and middle third are still glued correctly. It is between the middle and bottom third that it has separated (when the sub is oriented upside down with the magnet facing up).
Out of a score of five wrench difficulty, this is one wrench. Aside from waiting for the glue to cure, I spent less than 30 minutes completing the project, and the sub sounds just like it did before. Hope this helps for anyone coming across this post.
Hi, my 2013 A8 had basic audio, which means:
8" paper midbass in the doors + 1" tweeters at the full window speaker in the front + 4" wide band "PC speaker" like center, the rear doors have 6,5" midbass and 1" tweeter, and there is an 8" free air "subwoofer" on the rear panel.
No mids speaker at all, just empty space under covers. I threw out the front and rear components, really ridiculous weights and micro magnets. Out flew the center speakers too, it was impossible to listen to it even after replacing the front 2-compo. All of this is driven by some sort of radio-amplifier on the right side of the trunk (behind the fuses), the signal goes from the front (MMI unit) via the MOST optics.
Front door - Hertz CK165 (crossovers instead of oem mid-range speakers), tweeters are now in place of oem line-change assistant lights/mirror cover.
Rear door - DLS R6A (I had them on shelf, strong midbass but I did not like their tweeters + bulky crossovers), Hertz 1" oem-like tweeters with basic inline hi-freq filter. Doors sound deaden and noise insulated.
Rear panel sound-deaden, installed oem Bose subwoofer (also free-air), mainly due to the time and complicated shape of the base. I should have skipped this iteration.
The result is a good quality base (strong midbass, crispy heights, space), but the subwoofer needs more power + lacks clarity - it is more boom than hit.
I will try to replace it with a 30 litres sealed box + Peerless 10" subwoofer, installed instead of a ski sack - firing towards cabin. I am not convinced that this oem free-air concept leads to sharp, punchy bass.
Besides, once cranked up, the rear sun blind starts to rattle, esp. if it is up.
Literally HOW are y'all getting this subwoofer out of the shelf. The screws came out easily enough, but the cardboard is literally strong as hell and I CAN NOT get this thing out. I pull on it with 2 hands with as much force as I have and it only begins to flex. There has to be a better way. I can already tell that with the way I'm pulling on it it's going to not budge until it suddenly pops and then I'll probably pull it too hard and break the connector. Can someone please send pics of where they cut the cardboard at to get the sub out?
You need to remove it from the front first, don't try and get the rear to clear. Move it as far to the BACK of the car as possible then pull the FRONT most section of the woofer up and I added two cuts to the deck trim in front of the speaker to allow it to fold easily. Install in reverse.
Thank you! Following this advice I was able to get it out even though it was a real PITA. Question, do you know if its safe to use the stereo with the subwoofer wires sitting exposed (not touching), or will it short the amp or something?
Go nuts, I used it with no sub for a few days and for an intentional 4 hour session with friends. If you do the latter use a battery tender lol!
07-24-2018, 03:23 PM
