mtnboydl

All,

Thought I would include a few simple pictures to document the PCV valve replacement. Straightforward and simple, but didn't see a specific one for the D4s out there.
Assembly is the opposite of removal, so I didn't include notes on that part.

Tools needed:
Scan tool of choice (I used OBDeleven) for code clearing
A few small flat-head screwdrivers for clips
Pliers
T20 torx driver
New valve

First- got the valve from ECS tuning.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...cv/079103245m/

Parts with OBDeleven for the codes


I've indicated the location of the valve on this picture. Shroud is already removed.


So you get an idea


Three of the four lines that need to be disconnected. The top right needs to be released gently with a screwdriver between the tabs and ridge while pulled away from the valve (see below). The bottom two are spring loaded and will come right up with pliers.


Close view of where to place your screwdriver to release the clip. Be careful not to break it!


These three screws are the only ones holding the valve to the engine. You need a T20 bit to remove them. Be careful not to drop them like I did....took an extra 15 minutes just trying to get them back!


The last clip to get is hidden under the valve, marked in red. Easier to get after you've removed the hose indicated in blue.


Valve-less!


And of course, the reason we all drive A8s....they are beautiful!!

rally

Awesome. That’s an easy fix if one has a 4.2L
thank you!

kgd_007

Thanks for posting this. Having the same issue and just ordered the replacement. Glad I have the 4.2 as it is really easy to access this part. I ordered the part from audipartsusa.com. Was about $20 less than ECS Tuning.

Mich 2012A8L

Great Post! This saved me proabably $700! I went to my local dealer; they had the part - I showed them the ECU online price ($30 cheaper) - so they gave me 10% off and I didn't have to wait 5 days until it shipped.

Started the job and was done in less than 40min.


Mine had just started to whislte intermittently 2 days ago - so I searched and found this post. Yesterday my check engine light came on. This morning - I ran the car and did the test by removing the oil fill cover. Did that twice lifting and letting the suction pull it back down. When I went back in the cabin - the light was off so the code reset.

When I removed the hose on the left side (looking at pcv) mine gushed out oily-water as well.

mpelanti

Got the code P2279 - Leak in Air Intake System - and engine light was on. Called my mechanic, he said PCV needs replacement, but he had a 2 week waiting time before he could do this.

So found this excellent guide, got the part from dealer for around 90 euros and changed it under 30 minutes. Thanks!!

Frag

When I took my old PCV valve off two of the lines has water/oil almost pinkish fluid in them. Is that normal? I was thinking of cranking the car for a few seconds to flush out fluid before replacing with the new PCV valve.

Frag

After I replaced the PCV valve on my 2012 D4 4.2 the car actually ran like crap and even would stall out while driving down the road! I called ECS to verify I had the right part. I thought I'd try clearing any and all error codes stored with VCDS so I did that. The car magically now seems to run perfectly after clearing the codes. It seems odd to me that the codes wouldn't self clear once the new PCV valve was installed. I guess it takes clearing the codes just after replacement of the PCV to get the car to recognize everything is good?

MVoorhees

Fwiw,

When I changed mine I also had the lines full of fluid. Not sure why or if that is normal. But changing it was easy and I had no codes to contend with. Even when I had to...creatively...solve my self created broken hose problem.

Gearhead62

Great DIY and Pictures.... I have 2012 D4 4.2L with same PCV in photos.... Running great, 87K Miles...... Recently pulled PCV, inspected, cleaned, reinstalled .....
Does anyone know more on this PCV component? Specifically:
A. The PCV Component has 5 ports:

1. 2 small ports (underneath) are coolant, for heating (supply and return)
2. 1 large side port - hose connects to Valve Cover, has neg vacuum, draws into PCV
3. 1 small vertical port w/ hose (facing up) - Function? Connects to?
4. 1 large port - flange mount, 3 Torx, (facing down) - Function? Connects to?

B. Is it also designed to perform oil separation, in addition to core function?

Any other 2011-12 / 4.2L PCV experience / comments / enhancements on this welcome ..... Thanks!

AlexSmith

My shop told me it would cost $700 to replace the PCV valve. I was floored and asked how it could possibly cost so much, he told me he had to get deep into or behind the engine to get the part.

Found your guide, order the part from your link for me 4.2 and finished in 40 minutes. Need to find a new shop...