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Audi D4 S8 Front Brakes: how to (crosslink) and some notes

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Old 12-05-2017, 07:59 AM
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Default Audi D4 S8 Front Brakes: how to (crosslink) and some notes

I got a message from another member about some practical questions on doing the Audi S8 front brakes--in conventional steel. Hence this post with information I have at hand. Recently I posted on a good price for the OE dealer rotors and related parts, now through end of 2017. Aside from the two or so places that machine dealer blanks for more $$, dealers are basically the only source for S8 front rotors. See: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...30-ea-2937733/ As an FYI form one other picture I came across on web, OE pads are apparently Brembo. I need to confirm when I do mine (with EBC reds), but a web pic I found clearly showed both the Audi and Brembo labeling on the back of the pad.

The Audi S8 front set up is the same as the S7 and C7 S6. All use the same 400x38mm front rotors. Not the same BTW as the conventional RS7 steel set up, which uses wave style 390mm rotors.

I have not done the job yet, but here is a reference post I saved from the AZ board. Practical hands on for a C7 S6. Best I have seen, and among the few around that even start into the job itself: How-to: Installing brake pads on an S6/7

Other notes:
  • Exactly which bolts to remove to pull the front caliper assembly can vary. One of the new oddities on this specific set up. In the link, the poster pulls the main carrier bolts at the hub. Certainly one option, and the one typical for a full rotor change. To do those, you generally have to get well under car to get the needed torque to remove and tighten them so somewhat of a hassle. If pads only, you can just do the usual caliper only removal, but then notice in the pics the unusual star allen type bolts. I have yet to pull my wheels for winter tires and check that out.
  • If you go on to do rotors, they are held on by the single small Torx screw at face of hub. If in snow areas, it may be somewhat frozen. Plan to use LiquidWrench and exactly the right tool to avoid stripping. Often takes a mallet to crack rotor free. I always replace that little screw. Less than $1 from dealer.
  • Plan to do a fluid bleed as part of job. From having done the small boy versions of these calipers from an RS5 set up, realize there are brake bleed ports on BOTH sides of the caliper (since pistons are on both sides), not just one. Linked post doesn't deal with that part of job. The inner bleed port is sort of in the shadows and road dirt in most pics but can be spotted most clearly in the very last one.
  • If you aren't familiar with it, realize Audis now use a modified brake fluid for better very low temp ESP operation. Same w/ other German brands these days AFAIK. I use the Audi VW brand, which actually has very good specs as they go. In Pentosin they call it LV (low viscosity) and in Ate is labeled SL6. Still a DOT4 variant and can intermix. I have switched to it on my older Audi fills, and now use it in lieu of my prior Ate Typ200 in std. DOT4. That and some other conventional DOT4's have somewhat higher boiling points, but if you don't track I would go with the current low viscosity spec.
  • Notice the pad shims in the pics. I mention those in my posts too. He replaces them. Some other posts from DIY'ers report they (or indies) carefully separate them from pads and then reuse. Or if stuck on caliper pistons, just leave in place. They are usually over $200 as stated in the thread, but current sale price I linked in somewhat lower.
  • For the rear brakes, those are conventional rotors and have some third party sources if desired. Labor procedure is almost universal on Audi rear brakes of recent vintage. You have to deal with the electric parking brake motor with VCDS or other tool.
Please share any practical how to's--if and as you do the job on an S8. I titled this thread to make it easy to search on later. No pride in authorship or technique in the linked post, but seems very well done.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 12-09-2017 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:47 AM
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Default Thank you!

For linking that thread and the extra notes. Seems like a job that can be done and anytime I can avoid my dealers "service" department it's a good thing.

When I think of Audi dealer service, I usually feel like it's more akin to "servicing" in the livestock sense...
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