Sway bar links
03-07-2016, 07:12 AM
#21
AudiWorld Member
Jack88: THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS! My car has the same noise over speed bumps, and I've told the dealer about it many times and ask them to check the sway bar end links. Each time they tell me they're fine.
Does anyone know if the sway bar end links are covered under the factory warranty? I'd like to know before I order the parts.
Thanks!
Does anyone know if the sway bar end links are covered under the factory warranty? I'd like to know before I order the parts.
Thanks!
03-07-2016, 08:26 AM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
It is worth noting that after 50k miles, it falls under an exclusion as a wear item in most warranties, including CPO if memory serves me right. My links didn't look that bad, but putting in new ones fixed the problem immediately.
03-07-2016, 08:34 AM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
I got my D3 links replaced under CPO on my previous one. The language of CPO gives them some discretion, and perhaps on A8's/S8's they bend a little more. At a more granular level, the service advisor (actually the manager where I went for the W12) said that the rubber of the link has to show evidence of tearing. On a D3, they often start to go with a little bit of rubber separating around the perimeter, rather than tearing out in the middle like the upper control arms usually do with time/miles. Anyway, that bit of rubber separating was enough to check the "covered" box on mine. D4 design is the straight one rather than the old U one, though the rubber bushing at both ends is pretty similar. Having done the links yet later on my CPO, the Lemforder OES parts used on that one aren't expensive anyway. Now down to less than $60 for both, shipped. Dealer price is like 3x that, for EACH side.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-07-2016 at 08:37 AM.
03-07-2016, 10:20 AM
#24
AudiWorld Member
Thanks guys, I'm at ~44K miles and less than 4 years, however I also have the Audi Platinum 3 year/70K extended warranty.
While getting my vibration issue resolved (3 visits to dealer, and one drive shaft later) I mentioned the creaky front end each time, but they never looked into it.
I'll take it to a different Audi dealer soon and ask them to examine the end links.
While getting my vibration issue resolved (3 visits to dealer, and one drive shaft later) I mentioned the creaky front end each time, but they never looked into it.
I'll take it to a different Audi dealer soon and ask them to examine the end links.
03-07-2016, 11:39 AM
#25
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I had the sway bar links replaced by Audi on my 2011 under the CPO warranty for the same sounds. Also the control arm bushings were replaced as well. Actually I think it tightened up the steering feel a bit after those were done.
Still I had the occasional suspension squeaks/squawks when going over the speed tables in my neighborhood which they chalked up to the air suspension. This is even after replacing the front struts and the compressor.
I just traded my 2011 in for a CPO 2013 S8 and hope that those problems don't occur on this one.
Still I had the occasional suspension squeaks/squawks when going over the speed tables in my neighborhood which they chalked up to the air suspension. This is even after replacing the front struts and the compressor.
I just traded my 2011 in for a CPO 2013 S8 and hope that those problems don't occur on this one.
05-02-2016, 08:06 AM
#27
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I replaced my sway bar links last night and I'm very happy to find that it took care of both my rattling and creaking noises! I'm finally experiencing the buttery smooth ride the A8L is supposed to provide with way less body roll. 
A few more things:
The tools you will need are a stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove the front underbody panel and a couple of 16mm sockets or wrenches. Beware that this 16mm size is usually skipped in tool sets and all the stores were closed when I first tried to take care of this on Sunday night. I ended up buying two of them for $3 each at Home Depot. I regretted not purchasing one ratcheting and one combination! To save your wrists.. buy at least one of them ratcheting (it's only $8).
I used a floor jack but it's not completely necessary. Doing this with the air suspension in lift mode won't cause any problems and it'll give you more room to get underneath the car. So raise/lift mode is okay but not tire change mode. When I had the air suspension tire change mode turned on, it let the suspension sag so low that I couldn't get my jack back out and also the bolt holes between the sway bar and sway bar link wouldn't line up. I was freaking out for a minute thinking I messed everything up! Then I turned off the setting and all was well.
I guessed as to the installation position of the new sway bar links. I just aligned up the stamped words Made in China on the old ones with the Made in Germany on the new ones and installed them in that same way. *fingers crossed* The old sway bar links had cracks in the rubber and the new ones were a way better design.
Here's a before vs. after video: YouTube BIG difference right?
It really shows how valuable all of you are here on the forums when my local dealer is telling me my noises are due to using non OEM low dust Akebono brake pads and the best indy shop in town is just straight up telling me he doesn't know what the problem is!
Cheers!!
A few more things:
The tools you will need are a stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove the front underbody panel and a couple of 16mm sockets or wrenches. Beware that this 16mm size is usually skipped in tool sets and all the stores were closed when I first tried to take care of this on Sunday night. I ended up buying two of them for $3 each at Home Depot. I regretted not purchasing one ratcheting and one combination! To save your wrists.. buy at least one of them ratcheting (it's only $8).
I used a floor jack but it's not completely necessary. Doing this with the air suspension in lift mode won't cause any problems and it'll give you more room to get underneath the car. So raise/lift mode is okay but not tire change mode. When I had the air suspension tire change mode turned on, it let the suspension sag so low that I couldn't get my jack back out and also the bolt holes between the sway bar and sway bar link wouldn't line up. I was freaking out for a minute thinking I messed everything up! Then I turned off the setting and all was well.
I guessed as to the installation position of the new sway bar links. I just aligned up the stamped words Made in China on the old ones with the Made in Germany on the new ones and installed them in that same way. *fingers crossed* The old sway bar links had cracks in the rubber and the new ones were a way better design.
Here's a before vs. after video: YouTube BIG difference right?
It really shows how valuable all of you are here on the forums when my local dealer is telling me my noises are due to using non OEM low dust Akebono brake pads and the best indy shop in town is just straight up telling me he doesn't know what the problem is!
Cheers!!Hey Jack. I need to perform the same repair on my 2011 A8. Dealer quoted me nearly $600 after first saying the lubricated the chassis and fixed it. No dice! I see them for around $180 a pair, prolly same set you ordered. Did you replace the bushings also and should I set the car on raised position>?
05-02-2016, 05:47 PM
#28
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Hey Jack. I need to perform the same repair on my 2011 A8. Dealer quoted me nearly $600 after first saying the lubricated the chassis and fixed it. No dice! I see them for around $180 a pair, prolly same set you ordered. Did you replace the bushings also and should I set the car on raised position>?
05-07-2016, 08:23 AM
#29
AudiWorld Member
Thanks for the info.
I've had this problem as well.
It's not bad, just enough to be annoying.
I would do it myslef, but my shade tree mechanic days are over.
I've had this problem as well.
It's not bad, just enough to be annoying.
I would do it myslef, but my shade tree mechanic days are over.
06-07-2016, 05:49 AM
#30
AudiWorld Member
So I just did mine, thanks all for your input. Mine were also the China version dated late 2009 and the new ones german made dated 2013 and looks just like the one Jack88 got.
A bit strange though is that the new ones sat on the other side of the sway bar end and when I look at the old they have an offset and angle that the new ones don't have. No problem getting it attached though or any issues driving.
A bit strange though is that the new ones sat on the other side of the sway bar end and when I look at the old they have an offset and angle that the new ones don't have. No problem getting it attached though or any issues driving.