Trunk opens but doesn't lift up
03-05-2019, 11:30 AM
#11
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Warranty may cover, but you need to read fine print. If it were anything less than Platinum type coverage that you mention (often exclusionary at that top level), I would bet the warranty would not cover it.
Yes, could be trunk motor. Best diagnostic at this stage would be scan with VCDS to see if there are any codes. With symptoms like you describe I expect there likely are. A dealer will do the same thing against your description, using their dealer equivalent VAG tool. To be clear, use VCDS and not some generic OBDII scanner that won't reach beyond ECU. I have a hunch the app wannabe's like OBDeleven or Carista don't reach things like this. If they do, probably OBDeleven, which is in turn requires an Android device.
Likewise, I have had my 2015 S8 trunk motor replaced under warranty. More because it was finicky in stopping part way up or down and seeming confused. One of the most problematic areas of D3's, especially early ones. I had hoped they had gotten it better by D4's.
Yes, could be trunk motor. Best diagnostic at this stage would be scan with VCDS to see if there are any codes. With symptoms like you describe I expect there likely are. A dealer will do the same thing against your description, using their dealer equivalent VAG tool. To be clear, use VCDS and not some generic OBDII scanner that won't reach beyond ECU. I have a hunch the app wannabe's like OBDeleven or Carista don't reach things like this. If they do, probably OBDeleven, which is in turn requires an Android device.
Likewise, I have had my 2015 S8 trunk motor replaced under warranty. More because it was finicky in stopping part way up or down and seeming confused. One of the most problematic areas of D3's, especially early ones. I had hoped they had gotten it better by D4's.
If it's a common problem on the D3s then that makes sense why I always find how to videos on YouTube and not so much with the D4s. Anyway, thanks for the guidance. I'm somewhat reassured it's nothing major on the electronic errors.
03-07-2019, 03:29 AM
#13
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks again! I'll look in to this more this weekend. Last night it worked 3x on 3 different occasions. Now iim thinking whether its the fuse vs motor vs I'm assuming at this point that something is not catching something. Anyway, I booked an appointment with the dealer and see.
03-14-2019, 08:14 AM
#14
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I was trying to see yesterday if I can change this myself. The part is relatively cheap and I looked inside the trunk and it seems I can just pry the liner open but before I proceed I just want to make sure that I'm doing it the right way. Has anyone done this before? (All I see from YouTube andawrite ups areD3 related). If theres a link, can someone direct me to it? Thanks
03-14-2019, 08:53 AM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Sorry, but I guess I will chime in to be more realistic here as the thread keeps churning. If you have the warranty you mentioned earlier, go that way.
I don't think the design is the same as D3, but if it is even similar it is not as straight forward as maybe you are thinking. Unlike D3, there have also been relatively little DIY repairs or attempts on D4's AFAIK, and it does't have the obvious flaws the first gen D3 system was beset by. ASSUMING it actually has power (still not answered?), on D3 the issues could often be EITHER at the switch and latch area, or at the motor. Two different things, and two different parts and locations. Again, a real scan could sometimes differentiate. If motor, they typically engaged enough to make some noise, but either didn't go anywhere or barely started lifting. That is, it was the built in clutch rather than motor itself. Not sure you have diagnosed to that level, at least from casual reading here. You may need to get inside trunk and really listen for it in a quiet location. Again, different design, but D3's also had some hydraulic assist pressurized tubes that would lose oomph over time and get confused with motor inability to lift. There is no part visible like that on D4, but I think it is buried in the trunk lining now on the gas filler side. Motor is also moved and different than D3. From having changed motor on D3, it was not that easy. D3 had the battery there, but even with it out the bolt up points were tight to reach and finicky. D4 may be easier; I suspect not that cheap though and using second hand parts on this sort of thing is a question mark.
Net, I would go one of: use warranty, start with real scan, and/or get a real manual. For most anything beyond the most basic, these are not click a link or watchYouTube video type cars given low volume, high end parts, and high quality available diagnostics. If you want to get in deeper, it is either finding the product technical info (a deep web dive involving TSB's, SSP's (and need to know what those are...)) etc. and/or getting the shop manual. Sorta kinda are the web type versions like alldatadiy, while the detailed one is ElsaWin that involves downloading the official materials--and paying for the subscription. Literally thousands of pages in its entirely, so again not a free "web" document floating around, plus it is copyrighted. Some places on the web (search...) also will sell and compile one by VIN.
I don't think the design is the same as D3, but if it is even similar it is not as straight forward as maybe you are thinking. Unlike D3, there have also been relatively little DIY repairs or attempts on D4's AFAIK, and it does't have the obvious flaws the first gen D3 system was beset by. ASSUMING it actually has power (still not answered?), on D3 the issues could often be EITHER at the switch and latch area, or at the motor. Two different things, and two different parts and locations. Again, a real scan could sometimes differentiate. If motor, they typically engaged enough to make some noise, but either didn't go anywhere or barely started lifting. That is, it was the built in clutch rather than motor itself. Not sure you have diagnosed to that level, at least from casual reading here. You may need to get inside trunk and really listen for it in a quiet location. Again, different design, but D3's also had some hydraulic assist pressurized tubes that would lose oomph over time and get confused with motor inability to lift. There is no part visible like that on D4, but I think it is buried in the trunk lining now on the gas filler side. Motor is also moved and different than D3. From having changed motor on D3, it was not that easy. D3 had the battery there, but even with it out the bolt up points were tight to reach and finicky. D4 may be easier; I suspect not that cheap though and using second hand parts on this sort of thing is a question mark.
Net, I would go one of: use warranty, start with real scan, and/or get a real manual. For most anything beyond the most basic, these are not click a link or watchYouTube video type cars given low volume, high end parts, and high quality available diagnostics. If you want to get in deeper, it is either finding the product technical info (a deep web dive involving TSB's, SSP's (and need to know what those are...)) etc. and/or getting the shop manual. Sorta kinda are the web type versions like alldatadiy, while the detailed one is ElsaWin that involves downloading the official materials--and paying for the subscription. Literally thousands of pages in its entirely, so again not a free "web" document floating around, plus it is copyrighted. Some places on the web (search...) also will sell and compile one by VIN.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-14-2019 at 09:17 AM.
03-14-2019, 09:14 AM
#16
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, but I guess I will chime in to be more realistic here as the thread keeps churning. If you have the warranty you mentioned earlier, go that way.
I don't think the design is the same as D3, but if it is even similar it is not as straight forward as maybe you are thinking. Unlike D3, there have also been relatively little DIY repairs or attempts on D4's AFAIK, and it does't have the obvious flaws the first gen D3 system was beset by. ASSUMING it actually has power (still not answered?), on D3 the issues could often be EITHER at the switch and latch area, or at the motor. Two different things, and two different parts and locations. Again, a real scan could sometimes differentiate. If motor, they typically engaged enough to make some noise, but either didn't go anywhere or barely started lifting. That is, it was the built in clutch rather than motor itself. Not sure you have diagnosed to that level, at least from casual reading here. You may need to get inside trunk and really listen for it in a quiet location. Again, different design, but D3's also had some hydraulic assist pressurized tubes that would lose oomph over time and get confused with motor inability to lift. There is no part visible like that on D4, but I think it is buried in the trunk lining now on the gas filler side. Motor is also moved and different than D3. From having changed motor on D3, it was not that easy. D3 had the battery there, but even with it out the bolt up points were tight to reach and finicky. D4 may be easier; I suspect not that cheap though and using second hand parts on this sort of thing is a question mark.
Net, I would go one of: use warranty, start with real scan, and/or get a real manual. For most anything beyond the most basic, these are not click a link or watchYouTube video type cars given low volume, high end parts, and high quality available diagnostics. If you want to get in deeper, it is either finding the product technical info (a deep web dive involving TSB's, SSP's (and need to know what those are...)) etc. and/or getting the shop manual. Sorta kinda are the web type versions like alldatadiy, while the detailed one is ElsaWin that involves downloading the official materials--and paying for the subscription. Literally thousands of pages in its entirely, so again not a free "web" document floating around, plus it is copyrighted. Some places on the web (search...) also will sell and compile one by VIN.
I don't think the design is the same as D3, but if it is even similar it is not as straight forward as maybe you are thinking. Unlike D3, there have also been relatively little DIY repairs or attempts on D4's AFAIK, and it does't have the obvious flaws the first gen D3 system was beset by. ASSUMING it actually has power (still not answered?), on D3 the issues could often be EITHER at the switch and latch area, or at the motor. Two different things, and two different parts and locations. Again, a real scan could sometimes differentiate. If motor, they typically engaged enough to make some noise, but either didn't go anywhere or barely started lifting. That is, it was the built in clutch rather than motor itself. Not sure you have diagnosed to that level, at least from casual reading here. You may need to get inside trunk and really listen for it in a quiet location. Again, different design, but D3's also had some hydraulic assist pressurized tubes that would lose oomph over time and get confused with motor inability to lift. There is no part visible like that on D4, but I think it is buried in the trunk lining now on the gas filler side. Motor is also moved and different than D3. From having changed motor on D3, it was not that easy. D3 had the battery there, but even with it out the bolt up points were tight to reach and finicky. D4 may be easier; I suspect not that cheap though and using second hand parts on this sort of thing is a question mark.
Net, I would go one of: use warranty, start with real scan, and/or get a real manual. For most anything beyond the most basic, these are not click a link or watchYouTube video type cars given low volume, high end parts, and high quality available diagnostics. If you want to get in deeper, it is either finding the product technical info (a deep web dive involving TSB's, SSP's (and need to know what those are...)) etc. and/or getting the shop manual. Sorta kinda are the web type versions like alldatadiy, while the detailed one is ElsaWin that involves downloading the official materials--and paying for the subscription. Literally thousands of pages in its entirely, so again not a free "web" document floating around, plus it is copyrighted. Some places on the web (search...) also will sell and compile one by VIN.
. "If" this happens to be not covered then at least I have an idea how to tackle this. For diagnosing this, i'll probably go back to my indy to scan it then determine the problem. If its a motor or something I can do i'll do it. If I think it exceeds my basic skill set then i'll pay to play. You're right about the availability of DIYs links and YouTube videos. This makes it harder to dig for solutions. It doesn't hurt to ask around. Anyway, I'm new to my A8 and I'm keen to learn what I can do with this car. Again, thanks for the great advise!
Last edited by collantes_C6; 03-14-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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