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VCDS tweaks for the A8

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Old 03-11-2017, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Hammerli
Not true. My 2017 Macan GTS had sensors, had to get a set on the winter wheels, as you noted, then had to calibrate them. My 2017 911 C4S also still uses sensors. I believe my wife's 2016 Cayenne does as well. So not all companies have shifted away from sensors.

Yes true big picture, but sure you can find specialty cases. Gone on all Audis save R8, RS7 and S8Plus I think. Common theme is often cars that may have governors above 155, which is what, 0.1% of US car market? You may own some "tree" contras, but that's the forest.

The sensors are nice and something I personally would still prefer technically, but in competitive world are going way of overpriced buggy whips. You will enjoy unfortunately spending a min of $400 to replace with OES quality at 6 year point, or the aftermarket dice rolls. Same buy in cost on any second set of wheels. Been there done all that on D3 W12. Beru sold the business now branded Huf seeing the buggy whip market problem in their face.

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Old 03-11-2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Yes true big picture, but sure you can find specialty cases. Gone on all Audis save R8, RS7 and S8Plus I think. Common theme is often cars that may have governors above 155, which is what, 0.1% of US car market? You may own some "tree" contras, but that's the forest.
I'll admit I do not know the trend on sensors, so in addition to the above "contras", my other cars, a 2017 Camaro ZL1 and a 2016 Challenger Hellcat, both use sensors. So 4 of 5 of my cars use sensors, from 4 different manufacturers. Only my A8 has a governor (got to find an APR shop to remedy that), so I guess I am just very fortunate in my little orchard.

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cleex024
so i have a few questions...ive been messing with obdeleven and it seems to be working the same way but noticed that with vcds you can actually see the name of the bits? would that help make a lot of mods myself without looking at these codes? because with obd11 cant see the bits so im just going strictly by what number bits you are changing here.

so over the next couple weeks im going to be posting a lot of questions in here and hopefully you guys dont mind answering them but my couple questions now are how do i disable that stupid beeping noise saying turn off ignition before leaving the car...i tried the disable key warning and doesnt seem to be the right one as its not working.

also is there a special way to get into the hidden menu? i activated it but i just dont see it anywhere in the mmi.
Bottom line, get the real tool for serious modding. Up to you, but at least I'll stay just in VCDS related world. If others want to shill, have at it. Realize though even having used it for 15 years now, almost no one remembers code level stuff 5 minutes after they get done with mod. Hint: if the number does not compute in base 2, it probably is wrong. 1,2,4,8,16,32... Feeling lucky, base 2 style to boot?

On the "lucky" subject, realize if you are in long coding and miss a single one of those bits in uncharted territory, it is possible to blow a module up. Take ABS as an example. Over three grand at the dealer. On a late model one, hard to even find on the used market. Or, practice your best "aw shucks" lines in advance to use with the dealer (while under warranty) to repeat something like: "Gee I just don't know what happened. Driving down the street minding my own biz and whamo, out of left field, light show! Don't know what happened. Jeez." Sort of the same lines you use in traffic court just before the judge says, "guilty, see the clerk to pay the fine." See the cashier to pay the five grand--three for the part, and two to diagnose before they conclude "bad module, forklift replace." Or, if they want to tweak you, maybe they say, oh sir, that's 1001110001000 in base two if that helps. ABS just one example. Can definitely blow up light related module too. Probably the comfort modules where other common tweaks are if pushed hard, though haven't heard/seen horror stories on those by and large.

Those are the nightmare scenarios, but they do happen. Talked a few guys off the ledge over the years; others had already blown the module somehow. 90% of time your can reverse, but variously, 1. you need a camera to take before and after pics. Opps, my phone camera is tied up w/ the app and I forgot/seemed so easy. And, 2. YOU WANT TO TAKE A FULL BASELINE SCAN, RIGHT NOW PRE THE FIRST MOD. Save it along with your sales contract. Literally. Been there done that, both with and without it. If (when...) you screw something up, with the scan in hand you can compare coding and get back to original (if module not locked up). Without scan you will find yourself begging other posters to provide their full scan, IF same equipment, motor, etc. and IF unmodded. BTDT too... So, does the app even support grabbing a full scan and saving it? Every module, every hardware and software part/rev # and every set of coding?

More on the technical side, if you want to play--from having done it--it's good to know when a module has been dissected and when it hasn't. So, if I see the long coding support, I may play with it w/in the choices. But if it hasn't been, I shut it down and go back to my laptop to surf and research. And like your door related question, may or may not find the answer here. I more likely find it elsewhere (that pesty AZ reference again...), and more likely in C7 A6/S6/A7/S7/RS7 world. Owning the Q5 current platform, I also know some mods cross pretty well, but others are more A4/S5/RS4/A5/S5/Q5 specific relative to the D4 related platforms. Again, use an app approach and a board that doesn't distinguish well among platforms, and maybe with a user base inherently biased to younger app crowd and those entry Audi platforms, and guess what? FWIW, I'm also talking "coding" here in general, not "adaptation." Some mods are former, some latter. Former can be more risk or less documentation, though a lot of latter are only documented via trial and error and then posts w/ the success outcome.

$200 at current price. $100,000 in context. In scale of vehicle and w/ lifetime support, easy math to me. Way easier as soon as the nightmare possibility comes into play.

End of sermon.

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Old 03-11-2017, 11:25 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Bottom line, get the real tool for serious modding. Up to you, but at least I'll stay just in VCDS related world. If others want to shill, have at it. Realize though even having used it for 15 years now, almost no one remembers code level stuff 5 minutes after they get done with mod. Hint: if the number does not compute in base 2, it probably is wrong. 1,2,4,8,16,32... Feeling lucky, base 2 style to boot?

On the "lucky" subject, realize if you are in long coding and miss a single one of those bits in uncharted territory, it is possible to blow a module up. Take ABS as an example. Over three grand at the dealer. On a late model one, hard to even find on the used market. Or, practice your best "aw shucks" lines in advance to use with the dealer (while under warranty) to repeat something like: "Gee I just don't know what happened. Driving down the street minding my own biz and whamo, out of left field, light show! Don't know what happened. Jeez." Sort of the same lines you use in traffic court just before the judge says, "guilty, see the clerk to pay the fine." See the cashier to pay the five grand--three for the part, and two to diagnose before they conclude "bad module, forklift replace." Or, if they want to tweak you, maybe they say, oh sir, that's 1001110001000 in base two if that helps. ABS just one example. Can definitely blow up light related module too. Probably the comfort modules where other common tweaks are if pushed hard, though haven't heard/seen horror stories on those by and large.

Those are the nightmare scenarios, but they do happen. Talked a few guys off the ledge over the years; others had already blown the module somehow. 90% of time your can reverse, but variously, 1. you need a camera to take before and after pics. Opps, my phone camera is tied up w/ the app and I forgot/seemed so easy. And, 2. YOU WANT TO TAKE A FULL BASELINE SCAN, RIGHT NOW PRE THE FIRST MOD. Save it along with your sales contract. Literally. Been there done that, both with and without it. If (when...) you screw something up, with the scan in hand you can compare coding and get back to original (if module not locked up). Without scan you will find yourself begging other posters to provide their full scan, IF same equipment, motor, etc. and IF unmodded. BTDT too... So, does the app even support grabbing a full scan and saving it? Every module, every hardware and software part/rev # and every set of coding?

More on the technical side, if you want to play--from having done it--it's good to know when a module has been dissected and when it hasn't. So, if I see the long coding support, I may play with it w/in the choices. But if it hasn't been, I shut it down and go back to my laptop to surf and research. And like your door related question, may or may not find the answer here. I more likely find it elsewhere (that pesty AZ reference again...), and more likely in C7 A6/S6/A7/S7/RS7 world. Owning the Q5 current platform, I also know some mods cross pretty well, but others are more A4/S5/RS4/A5/S5/Q5 specific relative to the D4 related platforms. Again, use an app approach and a board that doesn't distinguish well among platforms, and maybe with a user base inherently biased to younger app crowd and those entry Audi platforms, and guess what? FWIW, I'm also talking "coding" here in general, not "adaptation." Some mods are former, some latter. Former can be more risk or less documentation, though a lot of latter are only documented via trial and error and then posts w/ the success outcome.

$200 at current price. $100,000 in context. In scale of vehicle and w/ lifetime support, easy math to me. Way easier as soon as the nightmare possibility comes into play.

End of sermon.
Yeah take it easy man...don't need to get all worked up on just a simple question...just wanted to know the difference. I didn't buy that vcds because I like doing things that are a little simpler...like using my phone for light coding. I always have my phone on me and just easier access so if there is a way to do the same thing this way why not?

i feel like this product was just to improve the interface and ease of use...I would say this product is definitely an improvement just like wireless phones instead of wired telephones.

​​​​​​​But hey if this product can't give me everything I want and if i get more serious into this coding then i might get vcds but for what I'm doing now it's not necessary because I don't plan on trying different coding on my own...just do what's already out there and you've been extremely helpful mp4
Old 03-11-2017, 11:37 AM
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I think the DRL LED brightness when lights on / massage timing is going to be my first mod.
Old 03-11-2017, 01:56 PM
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Cleez024, all fine. But preemptive heads up perhaps better? Not just for your narrow question, but folks reading what was meant to be a comprehensive thread on VCDS mods. Simple and "seemed like a good idea at the time" pushed too far leading to broken nice cars is no fun. VCDS recent effective price drop (by about half) coupled with the apparent leading pretty lightweight app going to a subscription model for more $ has kind of changed relative user value equation.

Over 10 years with D bodies I have been around to see guys literally blow up thousands of dollars worth of stuff and then cry. There is sort of a mentality with apps of "what could possibly go wrong?" When I see an app though where starting point referenced is no on line coding tips where available, that's a possible red flag lurking. Yes, folks mention that one can work for light coding, but I have no idea where you plan to draw that line. Also trying to help with caution on getting a snap shot first of what your starting point is. I didn't do that once, and took weeks to get back right. You can think the mod was tried and true "per the Internet" but then it turns out it is different if your car has adaptive lights or LED's, ACC or standard cruise, an S8 not an S5, or lots of other variants. Days later you get an error message or realize something else doesn't work, and need to backtrack. Scar tissue BTW, not made up stories. The phone pic idea is newer simpler one than full log--before + after. Both life's personal lessons and watching and living youthful exuberance: if I think I remember it or scrawled it on a piece of paper where I printed out the mod or carried my laptop to car with it on screen, some time later it's long forgotten or lost. Lots of personal bruised shins kicking myself along lines of "why didn't I take a flippin' picture" and "damn, I should have left well enough alone."

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Old 03-11-2017, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Cleez024, all fine. But preemptive heads up perhaps better? Not just for your narrow question, but folks reading what was meant to be a comprehensive thread on VCDS mods. Simple and "seemed like a good idea at the time" pushed too far leading to broken nice cars is no fun. VCDS recent effective price drop (by about half) coupled with the apparent leading pretty lightweight app going to a subscription model for more $ has kind of changed relative user value equation.

Over 10 years with D bodies I have been around to see guys literally blow up thousands of dollars worth of stuff and then cry. There is sort of a mentality with apps of "what could possibly go wrong?" When I see an app though where starting point referenced is no on line coding tips where available, that's a possible red flag lurking. Yes, folks mention that one can work for light coding, but I have no idea where you plan to draw that line. Also trying to help with caution on getting a snap shot first of what your starting point is. I didn't do that once, and took weeks to get back right. You can think the mod was tried and true "per the Internet" but then it turns out it is different if your car has adaptive lights or LED's, ACC or standard cruise, an S8 not an S5, or lots of other variants. Days later you get an error message or realize something else doesn't work, and need to backtrack. Scar tissue BTW, not made up stories. The phone pic idea is newer simpler one than full log--before + after. Both life's personal lessons and watching and living youthful exuberance: if I think I remember it or scrawled it on a piece of paper where I printed out the mod or carried my laptop to car with it on screen, some time later it's long forgotten or lost. Lots of personal bruised shins kicking myself along lines of "why didn't I take a flippin' picture" and "damn, I should have left well enough alone."
i mean i see your point, but how many of those broken cars that you have seen came from obd11 users and how many from vcds? i mean from what i can tell it looks to be about the same concept. i used to code my bmw also with my laptop and so many things you can do and it was extremely easy...im sure vcds is just as easy so i know what coding with a laptop can do...however using this obd11 with my phone is not only easier but a lot more convenient. i hated lugging that laptop out to my car to code something...also again im not randomly just changing logs and whatnot...i only go buy whats tried and true.

ive never messed anything up on my bmw and its probably most likely because i just didnt do too much outside of my knowledge. but i guess it still could happen to any of us...however i still have not taken any pictures of before shots and i dont really plan to...im kind of lazy when it comes to pictures.

anyway back to coding...

1. so i changed exactly what was on here for using remote to open/close windows however it only closes with lock on double tap...even my trunk closes and opens...but unless it isnt double tap and hold unlock to roll down windows something isnt right.

2. i cant get into hidden menus...what combination of buttons do i have push and hold to get to it?

3. mp4 which guide did you use to get that option of selecting early or late for lka? i looked at the retrofitting one but there is also another one for just coding it in...both have coding but just wanted to know which one you used?
Old 03-11-2017, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cleex024
i mean i see your point, but how many of those broken cars that you have seen came from obd11 users and how many from vcds? i mean from what i can tell it looks to be about the same concept. i used to code my bmw also with my laptop and so many things you can do and it was extremely easy...im sure vcds is just as easy so i know what coding with a laptop can do...however using this obd11 with my phone is not only easier but a lot more convenient. i hated lugging that laptop out to my car to code something...also again im not randomly just changing logs and whatnot...i only go buy whats tried and true.

ive never messed anything up on my bmw and its probably most likely because i just didnt do too much outside of my knowledge. but i guess it still could happen to any of us...however i still have not taken any pictures of before shots and i dont really plan to...im kind of lazy when it comes to pictures.

anyway back to coding...

1. so i changed exactly what was on here for using remote to open/close windows however it only closes with lock on double tap...even my trunk closes and opens...but unless it isnt double tap and hold unlock to roll down windows something isnt right.

2. i cant get into hidden menus...what combination of buttons do i have push and hold to get to it?

3. mp4 which guide did you use to get that option of selecting early or late for lka? i looked at the retrofitting one but there is also another one for just coding it in...both have coding but just wanted to know which one you used?
OBD11 seems to be a minor player to me, so can't tell. Carista mostly seems to have folks who don't do a lot beyond basics like window mod, maybe play with DRL's (and maybe don't understand consequences), kill a nanny buzzer and such, plus error codes for the modules (not all?) they support. Both on market only a tiny fraction of time VCDS has been. Operator experience combined with practicing it safely are the guideposts to me. I think tools with more safeguards and tips are better, especially given how varied the user knowledge is. You haven't said anything about taking a going in log BTW. Are you? If something goes wrong, you want to back out arguably offending mods before any trips to dealer on warranty, besides just trying to recover.

1. Windows. Mine is one touch to unlock or lock, and a continuous squeeze to either roll down or roll up all four. I left sunroof out of mine. Supposedly will close with rain sensor, but feels risky to me. Per my trunk mod post, my trunk now works one brief touch to close, and about 1 ½ seconds to open.

2. Hidden Menu. Living example of not everything is std. across Audis, don't believe it's true just cuz it's on the web somewhere, etc. Earlier reference was for MMI reset, which is different. I forget which is which casually too. Different platforms can have different button and labelling variations for Hidden menu, let alone the buttons are in differing positions depending on platform and era. Punch line: Simultaneous push of MENU and CAR together. From my D4 B&O pre amp volume mod post: "Has to be done at the same time, and it is finicky. I held my fingers in such a way as to see button lights. If I saw light go on with either button, no go. Only if both buttons pressed at exactly the same time and you hear the click detent but see no button lights, are you on your way in to Hidden Menu." You know about the Bootloader admonition too, right? Several D3'ers bricked their whole MMI w/ that, and it still happens it seems every year or two even with hundreds of posts and cautions on it. Now vaguely known how to unscramble, but not by dealers.

3. Active lane assist: Used AZ general VCDS post source for current C bodies that I printed various pages out of. Only one reference in passing as I recall. Function documented with gen 2 Q7 IIRC, but nothing about mod choices since it is just assumed in the cars with the feature. I have held off publishing for D4. Most recent test a week ago was with rainy pavement on freeway. I didn't like results. Not sure if rain related or the settings. Needs more work and thought, esp. with a safety system and possible other family drivers who could use my car--since it stays on or off per last setting instead of shutting off with every drive cycle. I get the point/factory set up about the late setting cutting off drift out of lane with inattention or whatever. But with early switched on as I have it coded, car wants to stay close to on center yet you have to keep hands at least loosely on wheel or it fully disengages in 20 or 30 seconds. So you can get into a fight about who's in charge. Obviously defeats lane positioning too like if you hang left to see around an SUV or truck, some other part of lane for potholes, water, whatever. Since it corrects more often in early, I don't like how it makes steering feel squirelly as it gives you the feedback. For full lane drift, I get it, but for judgment call in lane generally, distracting. I need to look at the wheel feedback settings more (can be altered too). Can vary some, but not with different settings depending on early vs. late menu choice. Better set up for me would be some wheel feedback vibration with late, but not with early given the momentary steering squirrelly baloney.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-11-2017 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
OBD11 seems to be a minor player to me, so can't tell. Carista mostly seems to have folks who don't do a lot beyond basics like window mod, maybe play with DRL's (and maybe don't understand consequences), kill a nanny buzzer and such, plus error codes for the modules (not all?) they support. Both on market only a tiny fraction of time VCDS has been. Operator experience combined with practicing it safely are the guideposts to me. I think tools with more safeguards and tips are better, especially given how varied the user knowledge is. You haven't said anything about taking a going in log BTW. Are you? If something goes wrong, you want to back out arguably offending mods before any trips to dealer on warranty, besides just trying to recover.

1. Windows. Mine is one touch to unlock or lock, and a continuous squeeze to either roll down or roll up all four. I left sunroof out of mine. Supposedly will close with rain sensor, but feels risky to me. Per my trunk mod post, my trunk now works one brief touch to close, and about 1 ½ seconds to open.

2. Hidden Menu. Living example of not everything is std. across Audis, don't believe it's true just cuz it's on the web somewhere, etc. Earlier reference was for MMI reset, which is different. I forget which is which casually too. Different platforms can have different button and labelling variations for Hidden menu, let alone the buttons are in differing positions depending on platform and era. Punch line: Simultaneous push of MENU and CAR together. From my D4 B&O pre amp volume mod post: "Has to be done at the same time, and it is finicky. I held my fingers in such a way as to see button lights. If I saw light go on with either button, no go. Only if both buttons pressed at exactly the same time and you hear the click detent but see no button lights, are you on your way in to Hidden Menu." You know about the Bootloader admonition too, right? Several D3'ers bricked their whole MMI w/ that, and it still happens it seems every year or two even with hundreds of posts and cautions on it. Now vaguely known how to unscramble, but not by dealers.

3. Active lane assist: Used AZ general VCDS post source for current C bodies that I printed various pages out of. Only one reference in passing as I recall. Function documented with gen 2 Q7 IIRC, but nothing about mod choices since it is just assumed in the cars with the feature. I have held off publishing for D4. Most recent test a week ago was with rainy pavement on freeway. I didn't like results. Not sure if rain related or the settings. Needs more work and thought, esp. with a safety system and possible other family drivers who could use my car--since it stays on or off per last setting instead of shutting off with every drive cycle. I get the point/factory set up about the late setting cutting off drift out of lane with inattention or whatever. But with early switched on as I have it coded, car wants to stay close to on center yet you have to keep hands at least loosely on wheel or it fully disengages in 20 or 30 seconds. So you can get into a fight about who's in charge. Obviously defeats lane positioning too like if you hang left to see around an SUV or truck, some other part of lane for potholes, water, whatever. Since it corrects more often in early, I don't like how it makes steering feel squirelly as it gives you the feedback. For full lane drift, I get it, but for judgment call in lane generally, distracting. I need to look at the wheel feedback settings more (can be altered too). Can vary some, but not with different settings depending on early vs. late menu choice. Better set up for me would be some wheel feedback vibration with late, but not with early given the momentary steering squirrelly baloney.
So I got the lka now to correct early and it actually works really well...I like it allot. Still can't get Windows to go down with unlock...it's only 1 bit i need to change and i did. Also got into hidden menus but don't really know what it's for though lol.

Now one thing that i messed up was the tire pressure is now reading kpa instead of psi...I thought that happened because I tried to change my lka county to default instead of us/Canada and i changed it back but didn't work. It's got to be something simple though so I'll with on it later.

Does anyone know how to keep drl on while using turn signal? I hate when it turns off when blinker is on
Old 03-12-2017, 04:40 AM
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I was reading about the wink feature with the turn signals and I believe Audi was required by law to enable this. At least other members were speaking to this.

The reasoning is that it is difficult for other drivers to see your indicators flashing if the DRL is still on. Potential causing an accident. May not be worth the change considering. I found this thread but don't quote me any anything. I have yet to even hook mine up. Been too busy.

link

Last edited by LexusLSguy; 03-12-2017 at 04:43 AM.


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