guido55

My 2015 4.0T warranty expires at the end of the month. Taking it in for the Fuel Pressure Damper Recall and 45,000 mile service/brake fluid flush (Audi Care). While it's there I want to have it checked out for any other warranty issues/defects (it goes into CPO warranty for 2 more years but will then have an $85 deductible). The things I've mentioned to the dealer are:

-front suspension squeaks/chirps when going over speed bumps (sway bar end links, lower control arms, struts?)
-1000/3000 RPM vibration (don't feel at 1000 RPMs but feel at 3000--downpipes?)
-drops Sirius presets occasionally but don't think there's anything that can be done

Any other things I may have overlooked? Think it's worth paying an independent audi mechanic to do an inspection or not since I will still have the CPO backstop?

Car has been great for the past year--love it and the engine!

Thanks.

Mr Brooks

Jibsymalone

My drivers front is growling away at 42,000 miles. I would have yours looked into, my dealer wants $850 to change just the wheel bearing! I would do it myself, except these are pressed into the hub, and I don't have a press to change them. I wish they sold them as part of a hub assembly also, but no dice.

Good news is my great indi, will change it out for $375. At that price, and for what I have paid for hubs on other vehicles in the past (parts only), I am more than happy to let them wrestle with it for a couple of hours...

MP4.2+6.0

Not hard. I just do it with a vice and hand tools. It's a cartridge assembly so just bolts to steering knuckle with four triple square bolts. First you unbolt that assembly so it is now loose from the steering knuckle. Then you support it appropriately and sledge the hub out--with a std .socket of the right diameter as the press tool equivalent. Remount is simple; just squeeze the two parts together slowly between some wood blocks in a decent bench vice.

Hardest part of job is actually the center axle bolt. Maybe 6-800 ft pounds of effective force to loosen. Needs to be pretty well tightened already before loading it or you can ruin the new bearing. I do it standing on like 6 ft or longer piece of heavy pipe as the lever arm extension while supporting the socket or extension with a jack stand. Have snapped the breaker bar that I slip the pipe over occasionally. Beyond most 1/2" drive air impact guns to drive off; the pro tool is probably a torque multipler.

theanimala

Jibsymalone

You can usually hear them roaring while you drive when they start to go out, also sometimes you can check for play on them by jacking up the front end and pulling/pushing on the wheel to see if it moves/wiggles.

theanimala

Anything proactive the dealer can do before the warranty ends regarding the turbos on the 4.0T? Just read the thread regarding failed due to the clogged strainer. Worried now that I have 3 weeks left on my warranty and I’m hitting 78K miles on my ‘13...

guido55

My dealer was very responsive on several items before my warranty expired but nothing on the turbo:

-new bushings/end links to address front suspension squeak
-new front exhaust downpipes to address 1000/3000 RPM vibrations
-downloaded new MMI software to address periodic screen freezes/reboots
-on the turbo issue there were no error codes or starting difficulties consistent with the TSB so no luck there

Fortunately for me I still have another 2 years of CPO warranty that kicks in now that my OEM warranty expired