93 CS 100 CAR WONT START ANY IDEAS
#1
93 CS 100 CAR WONT START ANY IDEAS
im trying to help my dad figure this out.
when you turn the key to the on position no check engine light. it does crank. Its not getting spark at none of the coils.we replaced the crank sensor. as for as we know its not getting fuel either. using a test light with key in on position. none of the pins have power. shouldnt one of the pins atleast have power to the ecm? the brown and white wire at the ignition module is getting power. Thanks for all advice, tips ect.
when you turn the key to the on position no check engine light. it does crank. Its not getting spark at none of the coils.we replaced the crank sensor. as for as we know its not getting fuel either. using a test light with key in on position. none of the pins have power. shouldnt one of the pins atleast have power to the ecm? the brown and white wire at the ignition module is getting power. Thanks for all advice, tips ect.
#3
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won't start?
My wife's 1995 A6 quattro had the same problem .No spark and no power to the fuel pump.It turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch about a $27.00 part through Pelican Parts.It's alittle tight ,to get at it ,to replace it.You have to remove the lower bolster, and the speedo cluster needs to be pulled out enough, to get at the small set screws, holding the switch in place .I used a mirror and a light to get a good look at how it was held in there,before diving in.The set screws are in a small recess so you need a small flat screw-driver to reach them.I replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump and fuel filter (new parts from Pelican Parts), before I tried the ignition switch.I also replaced the cam sensor and ignition modjule(junk yard parts) with no luck.We spent alot of time and money figuring this out.About 2 weeks later my VW had the same problem,I tried the ignition switch first, and it fired right up .Both have been trouble free and running great ever since.Hope this helps alittle. Happy Wrenchin'
#4
My wife's 1995 A6 quattro had the same problem .No spark and no power to the fuel pump.It turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch about a $27.00 part through Pelican Parts.It's alittle tight ,to get at it ,to replace it.You have to remove the lower bolster, and the speedo cluster needs to be pulled out enough, to get at the small set screws, holding the switch in place .I used a mirror and a light to get a good look at how it was held in there,before diving in.The set screws are in a small recess so you need a small flat screw-driver to reach them.I replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump and fuel filter (new parts from Pelican Parts), before I tried the ignition switch.I also replaced the cam sensor and ignition modjule(junk yard parts) with no luck.We spent alot of time and money figuring this out.About 2 weeks later my VW had the same problem,I tried the ignition switch first, and it fired right up .Both have been trouble free and running great ever since.Hope this helps alittle. Happy Wrenchin'
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Your symtoms point to a bad ignition switch. There is a write-up to R&R that switch in the FAQs. And you don't need to remove the lower bolster as 20vtq says. I replaced that switch on my previuosly owned '96 A6 Avant twice, and posted a write-up on how to do it.
#7
is there a way to test the switch before we replace it? Ive seen a couple diy articles on it. but havent seen none talking about how to check it? my car wont start, so is there a way to check it or bypass it to make the car start? thanks. we might have no other choice put to replace it without testing it first. could the alarm disable power from getting to the ecu, but still allow the car to turn over?
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#8
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I'd have to agree regarding the ignition switch as the 1st place to look. The switch in these nearly always packs in. The same switch was fitted to loads of different Audi and VW cars from that era, both petrol and diesel and I've had to replace many over the last few years.
To be honest, for the sake of $20 you should swap it out anyway and see if that solves your problem. Worst case, you've got a new switch, because aside from not working, sometimes they will stick in the "crank position", burning out the starter and possibly the car.
It takes about 15min to do if you remove the instrument cluster and go at it from the top. You'll be able reach the 2 retaining screws easily and you'll be able to see what you are doing.
Switches can be bought on ebay for as little as $5, or from Audi for $60, with plenty of options in between. Money very well spent.
To be honest, for the sake of $20 you should swap it out anyway and see if that solves your problem. Worst case, you've got a new switch, because aside from not working, sometimes they will stick in the "crank position", burning out the starter and possibly the car.
It takes about 15min to do if you remove the instrument cluster and go at it from the top. You'll be able reach the 2 retaining screws easily and you'll be able to see what you are doing.
Switches can be bought on ebay for as little as $5, or from Audi for $60, with plenty of options in between. Money very well spent.
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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I'd have to agree regarding the ignition switch as the 1st place to look. The switch in these nearly always packs in. The same switch was fitted to loads of different Audi and VW cars from that era, both petrol and diesel and I've had to replace many over the last few years.
To be honest, for the sake of $20 you should swap it out anyway and see if that solves your problem. Worst case, you've got a new switch, because aside from not working, sometimes they will stick in the "crank position", burning out the starter and possibly the car.
It takes about 15min to do if you remove the instrument cluster and go at it from the top. You'll be able reach the 2 retaining screws easily and you'll be able to see what you are doing.
Switches can be bought on ebay for as little as $5, or from Audi for $60, with plenty of options in between. Money very well spent.
To be honest, for the sake of $20 you should swap it out anyway and see if that solves your problem. Worst case, you've got a new switch, because aside from not working, sometimes they will stick in the "crank position", burning out the starter and possibly the car.
It takes about 15min to do if you remove the instrument cluster and go at it from the top. You'll be able reach the 2 retaining screws easily and you'll be able to see what you are doing.
Switches can be bought on ebay for as little as $5, or from Audi for $60, with plenty of options in between. Money very well spent.