CHighLife

What fails on the coil for it not have any resistance either primary or secondary. I have a car that won't start, I do have spark at all 6 plugs but when I tested the coil's resistence (just cause) it had 0 ohms on both test. Any ideas?

austinado16

It takes 3 things to make an engine run: Spark, Fuel, and air. And they have to occur at the right time.

If you have spark at the plugs, then you have spark at the plugs. No reason to do any further testing. Plus, if you aren't following the factory method for testing the coils (and I don't know what that is) you could be doing a false test and getting a useless reading.

Here's what I've learned in my short time here:
The sensor for crankshaft position (down in the lower middle area of the block just behind the a/c compressor.....and the camshaft position sensor on the back of the left camshaft have to be in time. If they are not in time, the engine won't start. There is another crank sensor on the flywheel counting flywheel teeth. It comes into play after the engine starts.

You need a good signal from each of these 3 sensors and the crank position and cam sensors need to be in time with each other.

Put a timing belt on wrong and the engine may not start!

You also need fuel pressure, so crack a fuel line and crank her over and see if you get fuel spraying out. If you do, you know you have a working fuel pump.

If you have a working fuel pump, and spark at the plugs, then the only other thing you may be missing is a signal from the computer (ECU) to trigger the injectors.

Oh, one other thing. Almost all of these cars needs or has had, an ignition switch replaced. One of the symptoms is a car that won't start. Another is a car that starts, but the starter keeps cranking. Another is a car that starts but then has no accessories that work....unless the key is manually returned to the "run" position.

Take it one step at a time, you'll get it.

CHighLife

I know more about this car then I ever need to know. I've replaced sensors left and right, taken apart everything tested it and put it back together. Stil not having any luck. I have 0 fault codes. I have all 6 spark plugs a sparking, 6 fuel injectors injected, timing that's dead on and it catches but still doesn't start. I was using Bentley's method on testing the coils. That was my absolute last test before towing it to the service department. My ignition is bad as I have to manually turn the key back otherwise the starter stays engadged but otherwise everythings normal. On a side note the car has 252,000 miles and probably isn't worth spending the money, but I hate to retire it to the junk yard.

austinado16

It's not about the ability to think outside the box, it's about getting back to the basics. Once you've covered those, only then can you move on to the more complex solutions.

For example.....you have a $25 ignition switch that has failed and would take you 15min to replace.

Read the thread below where the guy's car not only wouldn't start, but had the accessories not working and a starter hanging up....he fixed it this weekend by putting an ignition switch in it.

4Driver4

Second. Trying to diagnose around a bad part? Why make it that hard?

CHighLife

Granted the switch is bad, yes. But a new switch wouldn't accomplish anything other then me not having to move it back to the on position. Faulty ignition switches typically result in a no spark condition. Not the problem I'm experiencing.

CHighLife

Just because it is something that I had plan on doing anyways and like you guys have pointed out. Might as well fix the bad parts along the way. I did order a new ignition switch. But as far as the starting issue, the switch has been bad for quite some time and the car still started. As far as other information, I did replace on head gasket.

austinado16

Hope you ordered a factory switch. Let us know what happens.

CHighLife

Yes OEM switch. I've read on this forum how the aftermarkets aren't worth a damn.

hab_pk

hi guys i am quite new here but hoping you guys could help me out here i have an audi a6 1996 , and the problem once again is the ignition switch i needed to replace the key lock sylinder and the ignition switch looked all over ordered a manual could not find the infrmation in it finally took it to my mechanic and after 4 hrs he tells me he cant get the old lock cylinder out please help me if you have anything as to the correct procedure to replace the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder, the problem is to take the old one out without breaking it from the housing, please advise, i will appreciate any thing

also if any one has a telephone number i could call you on would help greatly thanks again