omen62

My Car is at approx 66,000 miles. When should I have my first tune up, would this cause any sort of oil leak, can I do the minor tune up (ie- replace air filter) stuff now and get the rest done later? Also, if the head gasket is leaking, why wouldn't I see oil running down the side of the engine?

omen62

Here's some advice that everyone can use- NEW COUNTRY AUDI OF GREENWHICH and FAIRFIELD AUDI are the worst car dealerships I have ever dealt with in my life. If you can, I strongly reccommend you go somewhere else.

muhammadc

But IMO, you'd be best off finding an independent shop you can trust and building a relationship with them.

muhammadc

If it was done to spec to far, you still have a few things to do...

Timing Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump/Thermostat/Serpentine Belt/Coolant Flush (I paid $500 for all parts/labor)
Spark Plugs (About $100)
Fuel Filter (About $50)
Air Filter ($20-$50)

Aside from those items, follow the service book that came with the car for the 60k service if that wasn't done. If it was, next service coming up is at 67.5k, then 75k, and then a major service at 90k, including spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter again, in addition to a transmission service.

omen62

I've got someone who claims they can do this, and that it's easy. How hard is it and will it be worth the money I save?

muhammadc

It's worth it to me, even thought I *could* change them myself if I wanted to take the time and effort to do so.

omen62

Are you using a dealer or an independent?

muhammadc

Independent shop... $49.50/hour

Seattle Scott

I'm pretty slow. I probably washed my hands 30 times. Cleaned the wheels inside and out. Took lots of pictures. Swept the garage floor three or four times. Took a nap. Played a game.

Anyway, if you can do disk brakes you can do your Audi brakes.

The tricks :

For a fluid flush get a pressure bleeder. During the flush pump the brake pedal a few times for each of the four circuits.

<a href="http://www.germanautoparts.com/toolbrk.html" target="_top">Brake Bleeder and Fluid</a>
They have good deals on Bentley Manuals too.

Get a high and low range torque wrench. You need to go as low as (about) 18 ft-lbs and then up to 80 or 90 ft-lbs for the wheels.

Get a Bentley manual.

<a href="http://www.bentleypublishers.com" target="_top">Audi Service Manuals</a>

You need a "special" tool to screw the rear pistons in. Most auto places have a "square of adaptors" for about $6.00. Just ask for the tool to screw in rear import cylinders.

Use DOT 3 or 4 fluid in your car. I skipped the Racing Blue stuff. I really don't think I want it.

Cost was about $400.

$300 new front Zimmerman slotted rotors and Rofren pads for all four corners including shipping (my front rotors were warped so I replaced and upgraded them) Don't get those eliptical slotted rotors. I hear they really eat pads. Search the forum for more info or ask here.

$70 Brake flushing pump and 2 liters Pentosin Super DOT 4 brake fluid including shipping

$6 Rear cylinder adaptor

$26 to get the stock rear rotors turned at a local auto parts/auto shop.

$20 Brake cleaner, anti-squeal compound, high temperture grease, rags, etc.

Brake job $422
Doing the job with an old friend and having a beer after, priceless ;-)

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12414/driverfront.jpg">