'86 weekend projects>>>
07-21-2006, 08:28 AM
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'86 weekend projects>>>
Gonna tackle the interior! The seats are in pretty good shape, even if they are covered up with '86 bits & pieces.
--Install seat guides on both front seats
--r/r the headlight switch
--install original Audi radio/cassette
--test speakers in rear, tear out if nec.
--test bass booster
--wipe down interior, vacuum, dust, detail.
--put the trunk liner back in [removed to get at the rear bumper bolts a long time ago.
--lube the winshield washer assy per Katman's suggustion, as I'm partial to the back and forth action....
After that, the "list" gets a bit shorter....
Anyone know the best way to get inside the top of the dash instruments? On my '84, there's a removable lid. I didn't notice that on the '86. There's a side port on either side, and I'm hopeing that all the work i need to do doesn't have to be done thru these ports.... Any advice?
--Install seat guides on both front seats
--r/r the headlight switch
--install original Audi radio/cassette
--test speakers in rear, tear out if nec.
--test bass booster
--wipe down interior, vacuum, dust, detail.
--put the trunk liner back in [removed to get at the rear bumper bolts a long time ago.
--lube the winshield washer assy per Katman's suggustion, as I'm partial to the back and forth action....
After that, the "list" gets a bit shorter....
Anyone know the best way to get inside the top of the dash instruments? On my '84, there's a removable lid. I didn't notice that on the '86. There's a side port on either side, and I'm hopeing that all the work i need to do doesn't have to be done thru these ports.... Any advice?
07-21-2006, 09:07 AM
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Re: '86 weekend projects>>>
You can remove the top of the dash cover by removing the two screws that sit underneath the top edge of the cover. They sit close to the plastic window of the dash. Should just slide up and out after those screws are removed. How to you plan on fixing that switch? I am having headlight issues as well..
07-21-2006, 09:56 AM
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Inst. Cluster Opening/removal..
avantagg had it almost right..
To get the 'new' style ins. cluter open, there are two small screw above the gauge face on top, and two more underneath. You should be able to see all four screws if you are looking up from below. Same 'idea' as the old style dash, but done a bit differently.
So you undo all 4 of those screws, and the 'switch frame' comes loose, along with all the switches. Then, carefully pry out the lower front edges of the top cover, and tilt the front up, revealing the instument cluster insides.
If that's all you are messing with, then there you are.
If you want to take out the instrument cluster, you should continue by undoing all the switches connectors, and get the 'switch frame' out of the way (If you are careful, you can get the 'switch frame' out of the way without removing the switch connections)
Then remove the two screws that hold the cluster to the metal part of the dash. (Often the plastic part of the cluster is broken here, resulting in a cluster that's kind of loose. Big washers on reassembly can help)
Then undo all the two electrical connectors on the back of the cluster, the speedo cable (kind of a clip that turns) and remove the blinker realy form it's clip.
Out comes the cluster!
As Haynes manuals say.. "Assembly is reverse of removal"!
To get the 'new' style ins. cluter open, there are two small screw above the gauge face on top, and two more underneath. You should be able to see all four screws if you are looking up from below. Same 'idea' as the old style dash, but done a bit differently.
So you undo all 4 of those screws, and the 'switch frame' comes loose, along with all the switches. Then, carefully pry out the lower front edges of the top cover, and tilt the front up, revealing the instument cluster insides.
If that's all you are messing with, then there you are.
If you want to take out the instrument cluster, you should continue by undoing all the switches connectors, and get the 'switch frame' out of the way (If you are careful, you can get the 'switch frame' out of the way without removing the switch connections)
Then remove the two screws that hold the cluster to the metal part of the dash. (Often the plastic part of the cluster is broken here, resulting in a cluster that's kind of loose. Big washers on reassembly can help)
Then undo all the two electrical connectors on the back of the cluster, the speedo cable (kind of a clip that turns) and remove the blinker realy form it's clip.
Out comes the cluster!
As Haynes manuals say.. "Assembly is reverse of removal"!
07-21-2006, 10:00 AM
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If the headlight switch is bad..
Time for relays!
You *know* it'll just blow up again..
Surprisingly enough, it's the parking light circuit the are usually the offender for melting the switch. But doesn't hurt to relay parking lights AND headlights, so that the switch doesn't ever carry any real current.
You *know* it'll just blow up again..
Surprisingly enough, it's the parking light circuit the are usually the offender for melting the switch. But doesn't hurt to relay parking lights AND headlights, so that the switch doesn't ever carry any real current.
07-21-2006, 10:48 AM
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The switch just fades intermittantly. Have to "tap" it to get it to come back>>>
When this happens, I loose all light on the dash. When this happened on my '84, the absolute cure was a replacement switch.
Where would you put the suggusted relay? Should I use a old relay from an old fuse box? I've got a few of those lying about I could use.
Where would you put the suggusted relay? Should I use a old relay from an old fuse box? I've got a few of those lying about I could use.
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07-21-2006, 10:59 AM
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Relay placement..
Parking Lights:
For the parking lights relay, you can mount it in the space behind the cluster.
The parking lights don't need any more power as such. Just need a relay to take the load off the switch. Headlight parking light terminals are the 4 small pins in a row. Power comes in on one, and goes out on the other 3. Power in pin is usually melted on the switch or the connector.
When parkling lights are ON, all 4 terminals are connected together. So.. You can use any two of the good terminals to control the relay, and wire the 3 'load' wires together to go to the new relay power feed.
I've seen a writeup in someone's picture poster on the parking light relay setup. Maybe someone remembers where that is?
Headlights:
Headlights DO need a better source of power, as you are tring to get the most voltage to them as possible.
I've mounted my relays in a small plastic food container between the rad and the fender. Protects the relays from salt and slush, and still easy to get at (If you make the wiring long enough!).
I used an old headlight bulb (removed the glass) so I could get the headligh 'signals' from the existing headlight connector, without cutting the headlight wires. I used new headlight connectors to connect the lights to the relay harness wiring. Get power from the alternator nearby, and give the headlights PROPER grounds. Factory wiring is very humourous. (Unless it's in your own car, that is!)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80066/relay_box.jpg">
See link for details on how to connect relays up..<ul><li><a href="http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm">Huw's Headlight Help (relays)</a></li></ul>
For the parking lights relay, you can mount it in the space behind the cluster.
The parking lights don't need any more power as such. Just need a relay to take the load off the switch. Headlight parking light terminals are the 4 small pins in a row. Power comes in on one, and goes out on the other 3. Power in pin is usually melted on the switch or the connector.
When parkling lights are ON, all 4 terminals are connected together. So.. You can use any two of the good terminals to control the relay, and wire the 3 'load' wires together to go to the new relay power feed.
I've seen a writeup in someone's picture poster on the parking light relay setup. Maybe someone remembers where that is?
Headlights:
Headlights DO need a better source of power, as you are tring to get the most voltage to them as possible.
I've mounted my relays in a small plastic food container between the rad and the fender. Protects the relays from salt and slush, and still easy to get at (If you make the wiring long enough!).
I used an old headlight bulb (removed the glass) so I could get the headligh 'signals' from the existing headlight connector, without cutting the headlight wires. I used new headlight connectors to connect the lights to the relay harness wiring. Get power from the alternator nearby, and give the headlights PROPER grounds. Factory wiring is very humourous. (Unless it's in your own car, that is!)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80066/relay_box.jpg">
See link for details on how to connect relays up..<ul><li><a href="http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm">Huw's Headlight Help (relays)</a></li></ul>
07-21-2006, 03:56 PM
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Put the relay where ever you want........
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56087/4kswitch.jpg"></center><p>I put mine just above the left knee on the relay panel under the dash.
07-22-2006, 08:36 AM
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Done w/ projects now, update!!!! Pic Heavy>>>
Well, today started out raining. Computer weather stated that I ahd a window of about 3 hours so took advantage of that, and went to the shop where the car is. Figured that I was going to be inside it most of the time, and if it got too humid, I'd just call it a day, and go drink some beer. Got there @ 0700.
Get there and put the key in the ignition, no starta!!!! D*#m!!! Look at the light switch, sure enough, it is in the "on" position. Must have done that about a week ago. F@^*#@n jack-leg shade tree mechanic... and after properly feeling silly about it, I chose to abandon my previously stated list, and do other stuff. My mechanic's shop is closed today, can't put the battery on a charger. Oh, well. There's plenty of other things to do.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dinged_door.jpg">
L passenger door as it was when I purchased the car. Serious dings/dents on the lower panel, eh? I was thinking about r/r the door with one from my part car ['83 4000] and had measured it to determine if it was the same size. However the parts car interior is now claimed with a HUGE wasp"s nest and I chose to not play with them in their new home. I'll go back another time with a can of "Bug Bomb" and smoke their collective asses later....
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dent_pulling_2.jpg">
Using my trusty Ding-King, I'd spent time pulling dents on another previous day when I had power to the glue gun.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dent_pulling_1.jpg">
Another view of the process with my Ding-King. This is the part of it that you actually glue to the area that you want to pull.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dings_almost_gone.jpg">
After many applications spanning about an hour and a half [patience is required here, or lots of wine] I had got most of the dents almost out. There is some leftover glue remaining on the door where I had been working, that will come off w/ the solvent provided in the Ding-King kit.
I then removed the interior door panel, and drove the remaining dents out with a piece of 1x2 and selective forceful hammer blows. I've got some sanding left, and a bit of bondo work left, however the door's exterior looks a bunch better now. There is a steel rod safety brace running the legnth of the door, front to rear, that kept me from using the 1x2 in one place that was dented, and will have to use Mr. Ding-King again there, on a day that there is power available.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/freshly_pinted_grill.jpg">
I removed and painted the grill, and trim above and below the headlights, and put back on the car. It was nice of the rain to hold off for this painting part.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/the_stuff_that_was_in_the_trunk.jpg">
Removed everything that had acculimated in the trunk over this "world's slowest restoration project" timeframe.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/trunk_liner.jpg">
I had removed and stored the trunk liner when we removed the rear bumper. I wiped it clean [boucoups dirt there]. This is the "dirty" photo.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/trunk_cleaned_out_ready_4_liner.jpg">
Had to clean the metal in the trunk as well, this is the "dirty" photo. It looks much better now, and especially when the liner was put back in. Just wish I know where all the plastic studs went to. I only had about 1/2 of them that I needed. Oh, well. Above photo also shows the mounted bumper.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/mystry_wires.jpg">
Found these cut wires near the Left side of the fuel tank. Anyone know what these go to? The fuel gauges work, trunk interior light, and rear lights work just fine. It's a mystery to me!
Then it started raining about 1030am. I bagged the whole thing, and left for home.
Get there and put the key in the ignition, no starta!!!! D*#m!!! Look at the light switch, sure enough, it is in the "on" position. Must have done that about a week ago. F@^*#@n jack-leg shade tree mechanic... and after properly feeling silly about it, I chose to abandon my previously stated list, and do other stuff. My mechanic's shop is closed today, can't put the battery on a charger. Oh, well. There's plenty of other things to do.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dinged_door.jpg">
L passenger door as it was when I purchased the car. Serious dings/dents on the lower panel, eh? I was thinking about r/r the door with one from my part car ['83 4000] and had measured it to determine if it was the same size. However the parts car interior is now claimed with a HUGE wasp"s nest and I chose to not play with them in their new home. I'll go back another time with a can of "Bug Bomb" and smoke their collective asses later....
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dent_pulling_2.jpg">
Using my trusty Ding-King, I'd spent time pulling dents on another previous day when I had power to the glue gun.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dent_pulling_1.jpg">
Another view of the process with my Ding-King. This is the part of it that you actually glue to the area that you want to pull.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/dings_almost_gone.jpg">
After many applications spanning about an hour and a half [patience is required here, or lots of wine] I had got most of the dents almost out. There is some leftover glue remaining on the door where I had been working, that will come off w/ the solvent provided in the Ding-King kit.
I then removed the interior door panel, and drove the remaining dents out with a piece of 1x2 and selective forceful hammer blows. I've got some sanding left, and a bit of bondo work left, however the door's exterior looks a bunch better now. There is a steel rod safety brace running the legnth of the door, front to rear, that kept me from using the 1x2 in one place that was dented, and will have to use Mr. Ding-King again there, on a day that there is power available.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/freshly_pinted_grill.jpg">
I removed and painted the grill, and trim above and below the headlights, and put back on the car. It was nice of the rain to hold off for this painting part.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/the_stuff_that_was_in_the_trunk.jpg">
Removed everything that had acculimated in the trunk over this "world's slowest restoration project" timeframe.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/trunk_liner.jpg">
I had removed and stored the trunk liner when we removed the rear bumper. I wiped it clean [boucoups dirt there]. This is the "dirty" photo.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/trunk_cleaned_out_ready_4_liner.jpg">
Had to clean the metal in the trunk as well, this is the "dirty" photo. It looks much better now, and especially when the liner was put back in. Just wish I know where all the plastic studs went to. I only had about 1/2 of them that I needed. Oh, well. Above photo also shows the mounted bumper.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/44843/mystry_wires.jpg">
Found these cut wires near the Left side of the fuel tank. Anyone know what these go to? The fuel gauges work, trunk interior light, and rear lights work just fine. It's a mystery to me!
Then it started raining about 1030am. I bagged the whole thing, and left for home.