Does anyone know the procedure for replacing the strut mount on a coupe?
 

im about to change mine out for some 034 sport density ones.

Take strut housing out :P

then remove castle nut... put mount on... install castle nut... install housing..
 

Its as easy as that!! Well almost, just be careful removing the tie rod end to avoid having to replace it. Ive found smacking it with a hammer a bunch usually loosens things up (I acctuly bang on the arm on the strut housing where the end mounts... not the joint... you don't want to mess up the threads or anything. Also don't forget to loosen the axle nut before putting the car in the air... can be tough to get off with the wheel in the air without a friend standing on the brakes. Then just pull the retaining bolt for the ball joint and remove the top strut nut and it should come out. Be sure not to strain the brake lines, and if you remove the caliper do not hang it by the line. I usually secure it to the fender or something with a bungee cord holding the weight. Good luck! Its not a bad job to do... there are just some details and order of operations that can make things easier.

It's possble to do in situ
 

You can use the bolt type spring compressors get the spring to compress far enough to slide the mount in. I did this on a 4kq a few months ago, when I realized that the ball joint and tie rods were not going to be fun.

Do not pound on the tie rod as recommended below, sears sells a tie rod press tool for 20bucks that seems like it is made for the type85 cars. Harbor freight, and a myriad of autoparts stores also sell these. A stubborn tie rod, beat on with a hammer, can bend before it pops.

HTH and my .02

Scott J

So you've kissed and made up with your Audi? I knew you couldn't sell that sweet thang ;-)

Re: It's possble to do in situ
 

Thats why I said pound on the arm on the strut housing near the joint. Have done this on a number of street and race cars for quite some time without issue. Usually the pounding on the steering arm where the joint mounts will loosen things up and it will pop out.

FWIW, if you forget to loosen the axle bolt w/ the wheel in the air...
 

on the fronts at least... rears take some creativity.

for the fronts, just put a screwdriver into the slots on the vented rotors. when it turns, it then hits the caliper carrier and holds everything in place. Make sure there's at least one lug nut holding the rotor, otherwise the hub will just spin.

for the rear... I used a vice grip pliers to hold everything tight, but this kinda messes up the rotor a little bit. I wasn't planning on reusing them, so it wasn't a big issue though.

Wise words about the ball joint pounding.

well im still up in the air about it. Its such a hard choice.

No pounding on or near the tie rods!
 

For the <20 dollar tool to do this right, why 'pound' on anything? Any Audi basic toolbox should include a tie rod tool. Save the 'pounding' for the control arm release of the overtightened ball joint pinch bolt (vs wedging the opening).

I won't argue that it will accomplish the goal, there's just absolutely no reason for it? And plenty of reasons *not* to do it. Adding 25K miles on the tie rod end for every hit of the hammer is silly?

My .02

Scott J