My 1985 4000 turbo quattro project
07-06-2012, 01:03 PM
#131
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, lots of fires...
http://google.org/crisismap/2012_us_wildfires
I'm kind of right in the middle of all of them, but the closest was the one by Grand Junction and there's too much desert in the way to worry, thankfully.
That's weird about the dash lights, but as long as it's still running fine. My guess would be that a sensor or two got shorted for a second, something that would normally give you an idiot light when the circuit closed.
-Rog
http://google.org/crisismap/2012_us_wildfires
I'm kind of right in the middle of all of them, but the closest was the one by Grand Junction and there's too much desert in the way to worry, thankfully.
That's weird about the dash lights, but as long as it's still running fine. My guess would be that a sensor or two got shorted for a second, something that would normally give you an idiot light when the circuit closed.
-Rog
07-06-2012, 04:20 PM
#132
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I was trying to come up with a way to figure out which of the two blue/black wires is the one I want (switched power) when on a whim I figured out that this is the wire that comes from fuse 24 that everyone always talks about. I don't think anyone has ever said that they're the same. So big secret revealed: They're the same! 
So to find which wire is which (using the continuity setting on your multimeter), just remove that fuse and stick your probe in the right side of the slot:
And then use the other probe on the blue/black wires from the snipped 4kq harness mentioned earlier:
Wire found!
Since I haven't been able to figure out another switched 12v source direct from the fuse box (impossible without a battery in the car), I guess a change of plans is that I'll run it to my homemade distribution block:
And then everything else will connect to it, plus it will be an easy place to get switched 12v in the future.
Now, I finished the kostal harness:
A basic rundown is that the kostal plug is at the upper-left, with the three pins we need for the late-wiring MC1. There's a short blue wire that goes from pin #9 and will be connected to switched 12v. There's a darker wire on the bottom that goes from pin #14 and will plug into fuse box pin BS. There's a lighter wire that goes from pin #11 and will go to fuse box ILa. This has another wire branched off that goes to the ground side of the fault code light (in my case the AC switch light, which I will explain later). Lastly, there's a long blue wire that will run switched 12v to the other lead of the fault code light.
Okay, so I cracked open the AC switch and drilled a small hole for the power lead of the LED to come out the bottom, which I soldered a wire to (blue in this case):
The yellow/white wire goes to the kostal harness as explained above.
Fair warning: It is a pain in the *** to get the AC switch back together. I ended up using a thin piece of tape to strap the copper piece down so I could hold it upside down to snap the switch back together without the ball and spring falling out.
To trigger the fault codes, the AC switch (two remaining spades in the pic above) will be wired to the fuel pump relay fuse holder via two spade connectors stuck in it:
I'm sure there's a way to wire it cleanly from underneath, but I'm about tired of sifting through schematics and such, so this is how I'm doing it. Not pretty, but it will work just fine. If someone has info on which wires under the fuse box are used, please post. The nice thing is it can be rewired in the future.
So when the car is all back together, I'll simply flip the AC switch for a few seconds (four I believe), then the AC light will flash the code. Better than monkeying around in the cluster to wire a light there and MUCH better than having to pop the hood and insert a fuse in the relay every time I want to read the codes.
Obviously no good on a car that still has AC.
-Rog
So to find which wire is which (using the continuity setting on your multimeter), just remove that fuse and stick your probe in the right side of the slot:
And then use the other probe on the blue/black wires from the snipped 4kq harness mentioned earlier:
Wire found!
Since I haven't been able to figure out another switched 12v source direct from the fuse box (impossible without a battery in the car), I guess a change of plans is that I'll run it to my homemade distribution block:
And then everything else will connect to it, plus it will be an easy place to get switched 12v in the future.
Now, I finished the kostal harness:
A basic rundown is that the kostal plug is at the upper-left, with the three pins we need for the late-wiring MC1. There's a short blue wire that goes from pin #9 and will be connected to switched 12v. There's a darker wire on the bottom that goes from pin #14 and will plug into fuse box pin BS. There's a lighter wire that goes from pin #11 and will go to fuse box ILa. This has another wire branched off that goes to the ground side of the fault code light (in my case the AC switch light, which I will explain later). Lastly, there's a long blue wire that will run switched 12v to the other lead of the fault code light.
Okay, so I cracked open the AC switch and drilled a small hole for the power lead of the LED to come out the bottom, which I soldered a wire to (blue in this case):
The yellow/white wire goes to the kostal harness as explained above.
Fair warning: It is a pain in the *** to get the AC switch back together. I ended up using a thin piece of tape to strap the copper piece down so I could hold it upside down to snap the switch back together without the ball and spring falling out.
To trigger the fault codes, the AC switch (two remaining spades in the pic above) will be wired to the fuel pump relay fuse holder via two spade connectors stuck in it:
I'm sure there's a way to wire it cleanly from underneath, but I'm about tired of sifting through schematics and such, so this is how I'm doing it. Not pretty, but it will work just fine. If someone has info on which wires under the fuse box are used, please post. The nice thing is it can be rewired in the future.
So when the car is all back together, I'll simply flip the AC switch for a few seconds (four I believe), then the AC light will flash the code. Better than monkeying around in the cluster to wire a light there and MUCH better than having to pop the hood and insert a fuse in the relay every time I want to read the codes.
Obviously no good on a car that still has AC.
-Rog
Last edited by Rogviler; 07-06-2012 at 04:26 PM.
07-10-2012, 02:41 PM
#135
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
If anyone's confused by anything I can explain it better or in a different way. I want to take the confusion, mystery, and secretiveness out of this swap.
Currently wrestling with the fuel lines... It's a case of them almost fitting, such as the supply line, which joins with the 4kq line fine, but then it's just slightly the wrong angle to attach to the fuel distributor. And you can't get a tubing bender on there because the ends are too big.
Plus I'm puzzling over where to put the fuel frequency valve:
It mostly fits, but the braided line sticks out way to far into the intake manifold so there's no way to attach it. Mulling some different options. I really don't want to spend more than the car is worth just to have a couple fuel lines made. If that means more aggrivation to get it to work I'll take it.
-Rog
Currently wrestling with the fuel lines... It's a case of them almost fitting, such as the supply line, which joins with the 4kq line fine, but then it's just slightly the wrong angle to attach to the fuel distributor. And you can't get a tubing bender on there because the ends are too big.
Plus I'm puzzling over where to put the fuel frequency valve:
It mostly fits, but the braided line sticks out way to far into the intake manifold so there's no way to attach it. Mulling some different options. I really don't want to spend more than the car is worth just to have a couple fuel lines made. If that means more aggrivation to get it to work I'll take it.
-Rog
07-11-2012, 03:23 PM
#136
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
It ain't pretty, but here's one thing I came up with:
I basically popped the frequency valve off of the bracket, cut the tab off the bracket so it would fit, and then left the valve to settle in its own spot. The thin fuel line that then goes on top of the igloo had to be bent just a little in my case so it wouldn't hit the hood louvers. I'm pretty sure it will fit just fine under the stock hood, but please check the clearance BEFORE slamming the hood the first time.
I'm going to dig out my UrQ fuel distributor and see if there's anything on it that can be used to make the setup a little cleaner. Not holding my breath though.
The only other line that's kind of a pain is the supply line. It's one of the ones that looks like it will fit, but just barely doesn't. But if you bend it carefully you can get it to fit.
Project currently sidelined because the 4kq's return line decided to be difficult, so most likely I'll have to replace the whole thing all the way back to the tank. All because the dumb connector to the braided line is stuck tight and it's now completely rounded from all my efforts.
With all of this, I'm thinking it's actually a lot easier to cut the inside of the fender and use everything stock off the 5000. You have a lot more room, for one thing, but you also don't have to turn everything backwards, which means the fuel lines will fit exactly as they did in the original car. I can't think of anything that would be harder. You do have to come up with a mounting bracket and chop the airbox bottom off, but I bet that would sound pretty sweet.
-Rog
I basically popped the frequency valve off of the bracket, cut the tab off the bracket so it would fit, and then left the valve to settle in its own spot. The thin fuel line that then goes on top of the igloo had to be bent just a little in my case so it wouldn't hit the hood louvers. I'm pretty sure it will fit just fine under the stock hood, but please check the clearance BEFORE slamming the hood the first time.
I'm going to dig out my UrQ fuel distributor and see if there's anything on it that can be used to make the setup a little cleaner. Not holding my breath though.
The only other line that's kind of a pain is the supply line. It's one of the ones that looks like it will fit, but just barely doesn't. But if you bend it carefully you can get it to fit.
Project currently sidelined because the 4kq's return line decided to be difficult, so most likely I'll have to replace the whole thing all the way back to the tank. All because the dumb connector to the braided line is stuck tight and it's now completely rounded from all my efforts.
With all of this, I'm thinking it's actually a lot easier to cut the inside of the fender and use everything stock off the 5000. You have a lot more room, for one thing, but you also don't have to turn everything backwards, which means the fuel lines will fit exactly as they did in the original car. I can't think of anything that would be harder. You do have to come up with a mounting bracket and chop the airbox bottom off, but I bet that would sound pretty sweet.
-Rog
07-11-2012, 04:29 PM
#137
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Interesting. Will definitely have a look at this when I come to this in my own swap. I think it would be great if you could get your swap info cleaned up and in one place. I'll definitely have it bookmarked if you do!
07-12-2012, 02:40 PM
#138
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
The plan is definitely to condense it into one thread. I'd put it on a website, but I don't have one and I always hate when stuff disappears off the internet when you stop paying the bill. Hopefully this site will be around for a long while.
Not swap related, but I took the opportunity to wire my headlight relays. You can do this whether you're changing the headlights or just to upgrade the stock system and make it more robust.
Since this is a man car and won't have any frilly stuff like air conditioning and windshield washers ( ), I have more room than most people, I realize. But this is a great area to put the relays:
In fact I just cut the washer bottle bracket down and stuck the relays to it. It's protected pretty well back behind the radiator shroud. I considered putting them inside the washer bottle, but that thing takes up too much room. But it would be more stealthy and weatherproof. It's pretty easy to find a small plastic box to cover it with if you're paranoid. You could also put them inside the car. Either way. I'm just waiting for some rolls of wire to come in and then I'll run the power to the headlight connectors. Again, using quad-rounds so it'll be about as easy as it gets, just a power and ground to each light.
-Rog
Not swap related, but I took the opportunity to wire my headlight relays. You can do this whether you're changing the headlights or just to upgrade the stock system and make it more robust.
Since this is a man car and won't have any frilly stuff like air conditioning and windshield washers (
), I have more room than most people, I realize. But this is a great area to put the relays:In fact I just cut the washer bottle bracket down and stuck the relays to it. It's protected pretty well back behind the radiator shroud. I considered putting them inside the washer bottle, but that thing takes up too much room. But it would be more stealthy and weatherproof. It's pretty easy to find a small plastic box to cover it with if you're paranoid. You could also put them inside the car. Either way. I'm just waiting for some rolls of wire to come in and then I'll run the power to the headlight connectors. Again, using quad-rounds so it'll be about as easy as it gets, just a power and ground to each light.
-Rog
07-13-2012, 05:49 PM
#140
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Looking back through my thread, I guess I didn't mention something that I've been seeing done the wrong way a LOT lately. Even 034's description on their battery relocation kit is wrong...
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR BATTERY CIRCUIT BREAKER ON THE FIREWALL!!
Cripes, why would you? That leaves 10-15 feet of thick cable direct from the battery with NO PROTECTION!! Good way to burn down your car before you even have a chance to pull over. You should put it literally at the battery so that if something happens to the cable, be it something sharp gets dropped on it, someone's foot wears through the sheathing, whatever, it will immediately cut off the supply to the wire.
I put mine right by the battery in the trunk, on the inside of the wheel well:
I still have to sheath the ends of the cables, but you get the idea. I have less than a foot of cable between it and the battery. You want any sort of fuse or breaker as close to the power source as you can get it. DUH!
By the way, 034's relocation kit is insanely priced, especially since it's basically just some cable and a circuit breaker. No box or tray even. See this post for how to do it cheaply.
Okay, end rants.
I got the headlight relays finished today, (plus the ones in my Audi Fox, since I had everything out). Probably the only thing of interest is that there are good grounds on either side of the car:
-Rog
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR BATTERY CIRCUIT BREAKER ON THE FIREWALL!!
Cripes, why would you? That leaves 10-15 feet of thick cable direct from the battery with NO PROTECTION!! Good way to burn down your car before you even have a chance to pull over. You should put it literally at the battery so that if something happens to the cable, be it something sharp gets dropped on it, someone's foot wears through the sheathing, whatever, it will immediately cut off the supply to the wire.
I put mine right by the battery in the trunk, on the inside of the wheel well:
I still have to sheath the ends of the cables, but you get the idea. I have less than a foot of cable between it and the battery. You want any sort of fuse or breaker as close to the power source as you can get it. DUH!
By the way, 034's relocation kit is insanely priced, especially since it's basically just some cable and a circuit breaker. No box or tray even. See this post for how to do it cheaply.
Okay, end rants.
I got the headlight relays finished today, (plus the ones in my Audi Fox, since I had everything out). Probably the only thing of interest is that there are good grounds on either side of the car:
-Rog