New Audi 4000 owner! Restoration thread
07-21-2018, 01:53 PM
#41
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well guys I screwed it. I needed to replace the brake booster vacuum line (The one that goes off of the intake manifold). Well I bought some new 1/2" hose, but as I went to attach the old rigid black vacuum line into the new hose, it cracked into a million pieces. I don't have anything with me today to fix it. I guess I can just replace the whole rigid plastic line with rubber hose? Or will that cause flexing problems? I can't see anywhere to find that to buy, so I'll have to rig something up. That's mega frustrating.
07-21-2018, 04:56 PM
#42
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Ah, I see. Right part/function, wrong terminology confusing things while searching. In that case I'll definitely be digging into that sensor and see what happens. Just haven't gotten the chance yet. And now that we're searching with the right name it looks like the part number for that temp sensor is 0280130037.
-Rog
-Rog
035 919 369 M
Item 32 (in brackets):https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+40...60/1/121-11000
07-21-2018, 05:01 PM
#43
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Well guys I screwed it. I needed to replace the brake booster vacuum line (The one that goes off of the intake manifold). Well I bought some new 1/2" hose, but as I went to attach the old rigid black vacuum line into the new hose, it cracked into a million pieces. I don't have anything with me today to fix it. I guess I can just replace the whole rigid plastic line with rubber hose? Or will that cause flexing problems? I can't see anywhere to find that to buy, so I'll have to rig something up. That's mega frustrating.
And as an FYI: Many people ditch the vacuum pump on the head (bu puling the metal rod underneath it), because the metal rod starts making an awful noise.
Many find that the brakes work just fine without that vacuum pump, and ditching it let you not to have to "T" into the hose to the brake booster..
07-21-2018, 05:40 PM
#44
AudiWorld Senior Member
Yeah, sorry about the confusion. That's what you get when you have to dig through various Porsche and VW threads to scrape up some info... 
For the brake booster line, I used some stuff that I've seen others use that you can get at any hardware store. It's clear and has a sort of white mesh embedded in it. The nice part about it is you can heat the ends and slip them over your attachment points and it forms itself.
Since it was mentioned, I made a template years ago for a block-off plate if you want to completely delete your vacuum pump:
https://i.imgur.com/iteiJoP.jpg
Make sure you print it at 100% and double check that it's the right size.
-Rog
For the brake booster line, I used some stuff that I've seen others use that you can get at any hardware store. It's clear and has a sort of white mesh embedded in it. The nice part about it is you can heat the ends and slip them over your attachment points and it forms itself.
Since it was mentioned, I made a template years ago for a block-off plate if you want to completely delete your vacuum pump:
https://i.imgur.com/iteiJoP.jpg
Make sure you print it at 100% and double check that it's the right size.
-Rog
Last edited by Rogviler; 07-21-2018 at 05:44 PM.
07-21-2018, 05:43 PM
#45
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Sweet, you're talking about that braided like water line? Interesting, I'll give it a look. I've found a 86' CGT that someone in Asheville is parting out. If it has the 5 cylinder in it, would it be worth buying to pull parts off of? I have some cash left, it would be nice to have some odds and end replacement parts for my car. I think the 86 CGT may be too different from my 85 4kq though. I'll fix this stuff Monday, cheers!
07-25-2018, 02:30 PM
#46
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Hey Guys, Bonus Update:
So I had some time today, I took the CPS or whatever that thing is called out and adjusted it to read a nominal 10mA value. I also readjusted the timing to lead by about 18 degrees. THis seems to have helped the car some, but it still idles pretty high in my opinion. I might need to adjust the idle screw now to get it back down below 1200. I also discovered that the thermo sensor seems to be working correctly. I unplugged it and the car died, then jumped the wires and it went right back to where it was. I also replaced the ground on the intake manifold, it was pretty rusty. The spare fuse was in tact, and the ECU seems to be working as intended. I figured out that while the WOT switch is working, the idle switch (on the underside of the maf) is not closed when the throttle is closed. I jumped the connector and it seemed to affect the idle a bit, so I may need to replace or at least clean that sensor. The engine seems to be doing well overall, just a few things now:
1) The temp light is still on, could this be because of the sensor under the coolant overflow tank?
2) The engine can now redline consistently, but ONLY if you ease the throttle open. Even then, It wont redline for long before it gets choked down. If you stomp the pedal it also chokes hard. WHYYYYYYY
At this point this is next on the list:
1) Clean the idle switch
2) Clean the auxiliary air unit
3) check the temp light cause
4) check the CPS or whatever to see if those two little holes are clogged.
You guys have any ideas? What could he holding the engine back like this? Cheers
So I had some time today, I took the CPS or whatever that thing is called out and adjusted it to read a nominal 10mA value. I also readjusted the timing to lead by about 18 degrees. THis seems to have helped the car some, but it still idles pretty high in my opinion. I might need to adjust the idle screw now to get it back down below 1200. I also discovered that the thermo sensor seems to be working correctly. I unplugged it and the car died, then jumped the wires and it went right back to where it was. I also replaced the ground on the intake manifold, it was pretty rusty. The spare fuse was in tact, and the ECU seems to be working as intended. I figured out that while the WOT switch is working, the idle switch (on the underside of the maf) is not closed when the throttle is closed. I jumped the connector and it seemed to affect the idle a bit, so I may need to replace or at least clean that sensor. The engine seems to be doing well overall, just a few things now:
1) The temp light is still on, could this be because of the sensor under the coolant overflow tank?
2) The engine can now redline consistently, but ONLY if you ease the throttle open. Even then, It wont redline for long before it gets choked down. If you stomp the pedal it also chokes hard. WHYYYYYYY
At this point this is next on the list:
1) Clean the idle switch
2) Clean the auxiliary air unit
3) check the temp light cause
4) check the CPS or whatever to see if those two little holes are clogged.
You guys have any ideas? What could he holding the engine back like this? Cheers
07-25-2018, 10:45 PM
#47
AudiWorld Senior Member
07-31-2018, 01:19 PM
#48
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Hey Guys, Bonus Update:
2) The engine can now redline consistently, but ONLY if you ease the throttle open. Even then, It wont redline for long before it gets choked down. If you stomp the pedal it also chokes hard. WHYYYYYYY
You guys have any ideas? What could he holding the engine back like this? Cheers
2) The engine can now redline consistently, but ONLY if you ease the throttle open. Even then, It wont redline for long before it gets choked down. If you stomp the pedal it also chokes hard. WHYYYYYYY
You guys have any ideas? What could he holding the engine back like this? Cheers
A 'relatively easy' test. If test fails, there is the filter before the pump to check (undo fuel line from pump input, and fuel should just 'gush' out under gravity. If not, tired pre-filter (easy fix) , or 'sock' in tank clogged (major pain to fix).
If flow test fails, and not a problem ahead of the pump, then perhaps the big filter after the fuel pump?
07-31-2018, 03:29 PM
#49
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys.
Well I screwed it again, royally this time. I cleaned the ICV out really good, its moving freely and I don't think it's a problem. I had already checked the fuel flow rate from the gas tank, and it was free as a breeze, but Katman's post made me think more about gas:
I started to wonder if perhaps the fuel was getting cut somewhere within the CIS unit, since everywhere else it was flowing very well, even right up to the CIS unit. So I decided to pull injector #1 and try and run the car with it out to see if it was functioning properly.
Well..... I popped the injector out. It felt weird when I did, and when I looked at the injector I realized the freaking cap on the end had come out. THE END CAME OFF THE FREAKING $50 INJECTOR. I lowered my head and looked into the injector port; sure enough there was the cone shaped injector head, sitting happily on its side in the intake manifold channel right beside the intake valve. Efforts to remove it have all been in vain. And so, I've had to order a new intake manifold gasket. I'm gonna have to pull the intake manifold....
I wanna jump off a cliff. That's another week wasted with a 4000 lb metal roadblock sitting in the garage. I can't even crank it to see if the injector has good fuel flow. Guess I'm gonna go sit in the corner and twiddle my thumbs for a week. Don't wait up.
Also Rog, you were right, that temp light was just because of the sensor on the underside of the overflow.
I think while I have the manifold off I'm gonna see if I can get the "Throttle Closed" switch to work. If not I have to find a place to source one, any ideas? Cheers
Well I screwed it again, royally this time. I cleaned the ICV out really good, its moving freely and I don't think it's a problem. I had already checked the fuel flow rate from the gas tank, and it was free as a breeze, but Katman's post made me think more about gas:
I started to wonder if perhaps the fuel was getting cut somewhere within the CIS unit, since everywhere else it was flowing very well, even right up to the CIS unit. So I decided to pull injector #1 and try and run the car with it out to see if it was functioning properly.
Well..... I popped the injector out. It felt weird when I did, and when I looked at the injector I realized the freaking cap on the end had come out. THE END CAME OFF THE FREAKING $50 INJECTOR. I lowered my head and looked into the injector port; sure enough there was the cone shaped injector head, sitting happily on its side in the intake manifold channel right beside the intake valve. Efforts to remove it have all been in vain. And so, I've had to order a new intake manifold gasket. I'm gonna have to pull the intake manifold....
I wanna jump off a cliff. That's another week wasted with a 4000 lb metal roadblock sitting in the garage. I can't even crank it to see if the injector has good fuel flow. Guess I'm gonna go sit in the corner and twiddle my thumbs for a week. Don't wait up.
Also Rog, you were right, that temp light was just because of the sensor on the underside of the overflow.
I think while I have the manifold off I'm gonna see if I can get the "Throttle Closed" switch to work. If not I have to find a place to source one, any ideas? Cheers
08-13-2018, 03:12 PM
#50
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys,
Sorry it's been so long since my last post, work has been super busy. SO, I'm getting pretty stuck on this JT. it's being a real pain in the butt and I'm thinking the problem HAS to be either the ECU or the CIS unit. I've checked everything else and it just doesn't make sense. I still haven't had time to run my #1 injector test at high RPM's, but hopefully I can get to it over the weekend. SO, I've come across some money recently and I've decided that I may go with an AAN turbo swap instead of pulling my hair out over this JT. If I decide to go this route I'll be selling the JT along with the CIS unit, since I won't have any reason to keep it. If any of y'all might be interested in buying it, I've posted an ad in the classifieds, I'll link it below. Otherwise I'll keep plucking away at getting the JT running right. I would be selling the engine as a whole, along with the CIS unit. If you're around Asheville you could come get it pretty easily. This is just an idea I'm throwing around in my frustration with the motor. I'll post the link to the ad below, but if you guys have been reading any of this post then you already know quite a bit about the motor. Hopefully I can dissect the CIS unit over the weekend too and take a look at what could be gong on there.
Cheers, Erik
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/par...ction-2955622/
Sorry it's been so long since my last post, work has been super busy. SO, I'm getting pretty stuck on this JT. it's being a real pain in the butt and I'm thinking the problem HAS to be either the ECU or the CIS unit. I've checked everything else and it just doesn't make sense. I still haven't had time to run my #1 injector test at high RPM's, but hopefully I can get to it over the weekend. SO, I've come across some money recently and I've decided that I may go with an AAN turbo swap instead of pulling my hair out over this JT. If I decide to go this route I'll be selling the JT along with the CIS unit, since I won't have any reason to keep it. If any of y'all might be interested in buying it, I've posted an ad in the classifieds, I'll link it below. Otherwise I'll keep plucking away at getting the JT running right. I would be selling the engine as a whole, along with the CIS unit. If you're around Asheville you could come get it pretty easily. This is just an idea I'm throwing around in my frustration with the motor. I'll post the link to the ad below, but if you guys have been reading any of this post then you already know quite a bit about the motor. Hopefully I can dissect the CIS unit over the weekend too and take a look at what could be gong on there.
Cheers, Erik
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/par...ction-2955622/