aa_ezra

So I have no spark and no fuel.I installed a used cylinder head with with the manifold complete with injectors and all the associated parts/sensors. (donor engine with 87k

History of what i have done.
Head was taken off out of TDC
Took forever found TDC Installed head.
Properly installed distributor.
Installed plug wires on distributor cap in correct firing order
BTW used distributor and related hardware from original head


Now i have no start. The original distributor had a different shaft for the rotor to go onto thick vs think rotor shaft. The timing marks on both distributors seem to be the same bu the placement of the little black ( hall sensor) is in a different location.


the distributor on the Donor head had the hall sensor after the timing mark when going clockwise, but the Original distributor( recently replaced) has the hall sensor before the timing mark, or it could be the other way around i don't remember.

Is there something i am doing wrong or is the distributor going to be the issue. The owner of the car got it to work with the original head just fine.

thanks

yota-toy

Did you connect the ground wire at the rear of the intake plenum? Make sure you're not 180 out on your TDC (although that shouldn't affect spark).

aa_ezra

Were would that be located. Is that a.k.a intake manifold?

I was going go over every connection again to make sure i got everything

yota-toy

Yes, intake manifold, at the rear left near the fuel filter is a brown wire (i believe it's two crimped together) with a 6mm bolt (10mm head) fastening it and the throttle cable plate to the manifold.

aa_ezra

Yes those were connected. Is it possible the 2 sensors connected to the manifold.. One is blue ( cold start valve?) and the other black are the cause of the no fuel, spark issue?

The Distributor on the donor head was diferent.
Does the Distributor have anything to do with why it will not spark or release fuel?

aa_ezra

I think im spot on the timing.

I matched the "0" mark on the flywheel threw the flywheel inspection hole thingy. and Used the Dot on the inside of the cam gear to be flush/lined up with the cam cover gasket. I'm still confused the the cam gear has a timing mark on the outside of the gear to be seen only when the cover is removed

yota-toy

yeah, I do not enjoy the timing mark on the cam gear, always seems one tooth off. regardless it should still spark. If blue (cold start valve) located between plenum and valve cover toward the rear was failing it would most likely over fuel the eng. but it would still get spark if it had it to begin with.
If you are having a problem with the electrical side of the CSV then you'd just be getting too little fuel, I feel the car would fire but may not stay running unless you stay on the throttle.
If you suspect over fueling just remove the cold start valve and cover the hole (I would use cardboard with fasteners). Reconnect the fuel line as it will spray if system is working. crank engine, If it does spray than unplug it and crank engine again. if it sprays while unplugged than your problem is there (well one of them).
Are you certain you have no spark, How did you test?
the black plug if I understand the one you speak of is on the very back of the manifold plugged into a cylinder with two hoses, plug facing the curb side fender than that is the ISV (idle stabilization valve) If your old one worked put it back on. every Audi I've purchased in the past has needed one of these and they can cause all kinds of strange runability issues.
Regardless I do not believe that either of these two components would cause a cease fire to the engine.
If distributor plugged in and was working I cant see it being the problem. Have you tried pulling codes? My car told me exactly what it needed to run when it was a no start...

RussB

There are (at least) two types of distributors: one has a single "window" for the Hall effect sensor; the other has 5 "windows" for the Hall effect sensor.

The turbo 10V engine requires a distributor with a single window.

aa_ezra

Thank you. At both the distributors had a single hall sensor with a single window so now were getting somewhere.

Now would the placement of the hall sensor and window matter?

I ask because with the timing mark on the distributor pointing towards the front of the engine and the rotor pointing the same, the placement of the hall sensor and window are different. One has the window after the hall sensor and the other before.

aa_ezra

Thanks. i will have to check out the ISV, sorry i havent replied sooner but i've been pissed at this car

I tried pulling codes but no sucess, maybe im doing it wrong
heres how i did it

Turned the key to on position
No check engine on the dash but it did iluminate "OK" then " brake"
Cranked the car for 5+ seconds
Left the key on the on position
held down the white throttle switch that is engaged at full thorotle for 3+ seconds
Went inside the car and the RPM Guage didnt budge


On a side note the RPM gauge doesent even move when i crank the car. is this normal?