V8 Failed Emissions(not what I was expecting though)
#1
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V8 Failed Emissions(not what I was expecting though)
In a previous message I mentioned the CAT light was constantly flashing, I thought it was a sensor but thought, well I can go get my emissions test done and that would tell me if I have a failed CAT or its just a sensor. It failed emissions, but doesn't look like a failed CAT:
HC(PPM)
MAX | Measured
198 | 209
183 | 210
CO (%)
MAX | Measured
0.81 | 3.15
0.71 | 3.17
NO (PPM)
MAX | Measured
1742 | 248
1542 | 241
So I have a little high HC and really high CO and really low NO. From what I have read this means my engine is running rich but the low NO means the CAT has not failed. Can someone confirm that for me? Anyway I have ordered a new O2 sensor, and I will be changing the air filter, plugs and oil, is there anything else I should check? The only running problem I have noticed is when coming to a complete stop the engine rpms drop until it almost dies then come back up around 700 rpm(it has actually died on me twice).
Thanks
HC(PPM)
MAX | Measured
198 | 209
183 | 210
CO (%)
MAX | Measured
0.81 | 3.15
0.71 | 3.17
NO (PPM)
MAX | Measured
1742 | 248
1542 | 241
So I have a little high HC and really high CO and really low NO. From what I have read this means my engine is running rich but the low NO means the CAT has not failed. Can someone confirm that for me? Anyway I have ordered a new O2 sensor, and I will be changing the air filter, plugs and oil, is there anything else I should check? The only running problem I have noticed is when coming to a complete stop the engine rpms drop until it almost dies then come back up around 700 rpm(it has actually died on me twice).
Thanks
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
I pulled codes
and got a o2 sensor for my cel and a knock sensor. If you have a cel pull codes. After those 2 new parts it was a totally new car WAY more power and fun.
#4
Use a 4 Wire (not 3) when you replace the O2. it's gonna help (more)
....give the ECU a faster and cleaner signal. The "extra" wire is for an additional ground. Most who do this conversion add the new ground to the same point as the ground for the rad fan on the drivers side strut tower.
#5
As for the drop in RPM, you may have a sticky or partially blocked
Idle Stabilizer Valve. (Round thing at the front of the motor). But if you can pull the codes you should have a much better idea of whats what.
#6
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: I pulled codes
No CEL, although no CEL even on start so I think I have a missing or burnt out bulb. I will go pick up the parts for a test light today and see if I can get any codes to blink out.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: As for the drop in RPM, you may have a sticky or partially blocked
Thanks, I will check that out, should I just pull it off and clean it with brake cleaner or TB cleaner?
Trending Topics
#8
Re: As for the drop in RPM, you may have a sticky or partially blocked
Yes, but after you get all the crap in there cleaned out use a bit of WD in there to help lube the assy.
#9
The readings for the 5-gas tell me this...
if NOx is that low, which is waaay low, and HC is high id suspect that there is insufficient burning of fuel, or insufficient delivery of air to the engine. both cause rich conditions, which you menthined, and both lower the temperature of the engine. the tips of the plugs should be a golden brown color and dry. click the link to compare your plugs to each picture. plugs tell EVERYTHING about how an engine is running.
also could be a faulty thermostat that isnt allowing the car to reach full operating temp. keep an eye on the coolant temp guage, and to be doubly sure, stick a thermometer in the coolant to see what its reading. factory thermostat opens at ~185 degrees F. to test the thermostat, pull it out when the engines cold. it should be closed. drop it into a pot of boiling water and it should open up in less than 30 seconds.
The RPM drop says Idle stabilizer to me as well.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg">http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg</a</li></ul>
also could be a faulty thermostat that isnt allowing the car to reach full operating temp. keep an eye on the coolant temp guage, and to be doubly sure, stick a thermometer in the coolant to see what its reading. factory thermostat opens at ~185 degrees F. to test the thermostat, pull it out when the engines cold. it should be closed. drop it into a pot of boiling water and it should open up in less than 30 seconds.
The RPM drop says Idle stabilizer to me as well.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg">http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg</a</li></ul>
#10
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: I pulled codes
Ok, I pulled codes last night, for the ECU I only got:
2342 - Oxygen Sensor Signal (voltage) is not changing up and down, (Shown for ABH Engine Only)
Weird thing is I have a 90 so I'm pretty sure I have the PT engine, but anyway I had my new o2 sensor and went to unplug the old one and found out one of the wires was not plugged in! The sensor looked old(probably original) so I decided to replace it anyway. So far haven't got a code again and....WOW I thought this thing had power before...I am really gonna get a ticket now.
2342 - Oxygen Sensor Signal (voltage) is not changing up and down, (Shown for ABH Engine Only)
Weird thing is I have a 90 so I'm pretty sure I have the PT engine, but anyway I had my new o2 sensor and went to unplug the old one and found out one of the wires was not plugged in! The sensor looked old(probably original) so I decided to replace it anyway. So far haven't got a code again and....WOW I thought this thing had power before...I am really gonna get a ticket now.