Audi80 engine sound/tappet noise--> need opinions
 

Hey!
I'm just trying to get some opinions on the engine sound.
I guess one or more hydraulic lifters are ready for replacement judging by the tapping sound?

Besides the tapping sound there seems to be some other sound like a whining?
I don't have access to another audi so I don't know if this is a normal sound for this engine.

Here's the vid if anyone wants to take a look:
http://www.mediafire.com/watch/ipjv9...di80engine.mp4

ThanX!!

yeah, tappets dont sounds too healthy
whining... dont know, maybe a distributor?

thanx replying!

Yeah, I've been thinking of ordering and doing them tappets soon.
I don't like the sound at all and the engine isn't working as smooth as it should.
Distributor has been rebuild.
I'm thinking maybe alternator bearing could make that sound -.-

Audi80 engine sound/tappet noise--> need opinions
 

Probably, your oil level is lower or time to change oil with heavy one or.
I'm adding oil when heard tapping noise on starting up and no change oil 5 year since installed with 24.000 miles just keep top off when needed because, my Audi (10 Valves A/T, 249.400 miles now) has an "Engine OIL Cleaning Device". Good luck. x19

could be that as well, or power steering pump... also, was your A/C on in the video?

to x19, i would like to take your engine apart and inspect the condition of your bearings and other internal components after 100k

Got no A/C hehe :P
But you could be right with the power steering pump as it's still the original.... It has been making a screeching sound lately when I lock the wheel to one side, but after correcting the belt tension it doesn't do that anymore unless I force the wheel and again only sometimes (fluid level ok).

As for the oil, last time it got Shell helix 10w40. Oil level fine, no detectable oil loss between changing intervals, so that's great :)

So today I ordered some new tappets from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/170615073673?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITAbout 16$ less then from a store here....

I plan on doing timing belt, tappets and water pump for now.

I've been thinking of doing the head too, but not sure though. The car's been mostly in the garage as I've been renewing alot of stuff and I wanna drive it for a while now :D

When you watch the engine it regularly shakes/jumps a small bit (sounds like a small pop from exhaust, barely noticable though), so I guess it could be related to the tappets as I've changed all ignition related stuff?
Also when I cruise in any gear without throttle it gets jerky around 2K rpm and then gets still again aproaching min rpm. Very strange!

did it start making that noise after you fixed the screeching sound?
any idea what oil pressure you are pumping out?

I drove around earlier and I noticed the screeching sound appears primarily when I lock to the left o.O not on the right for now.... strange indeed.
I could try record it tomorrow.

I think the "whirring" background sound was present before I changed/adjusted the servo belt.

As for oil pressure, no, I don't have a clue. But this gives me the idea to finally install a pressure gauge :)

I replaced the valve cover gasket a month ago and it didn't occur to me to check the tappets for up/down play. I read they aren't allowed to have any free play.

there is going to be some play no matter what, otherwise they would not move, you should be able to measure between the cam and a tappet with a feeler gauge. but i don't 100% on your engine what those measurements should be. btw, you engine compartment look clean!!! :)
p.s. you should be able to install a set of these Nick's Black 90 - 3B Swap: VEMS - Boost! :: motorgeek.com :)))

also check if the noise stops when you press the clutch in

ThanX! I always work around it and I like to keep it clean.

That plastic piece is exactly what I need!
I've been looking on ebay for some pressure gauges and lambda (fuel-air ratio) gauges. But I've no idea where to put them :P
I wish the one on the link was on sale cuz it's cheap! :)

What do you think of these:
lambda: New Black 2 1 16 inch 52mm Car Motor Digital 20 LED Air Fuel Ratio Gauge | eBay
oil pressure: Black 2" 52mm Warning Lights LED Car Digital Oil Pressure Press Gauge Meter | eBay

Why do you think the clutch would influence the power steering pump?

Maybe just remove the servo belt, fire up and see if it still makes that sound :)

I got an interesting story with the clutch!
It's about a year old. Lowered the car after being on jack stands and the clutch wouldn't release anymore. Couldn't get into gears when running.
I thought the clutch was saying goodbye LoL!
Jacked it up again and tried rotating the wheels while in gear, and surprise it rotated. I don't really get it.
I pressed in the clutch a few times while being up and then it worked.
Seems like it's bending but it shouldn't. I mean the tranny and engine lift together with the body......
Just thought I'd share, it's ok for now haha :D

the clutch has nothing to do with the steering pump, but if your throw out bearing could be making that noise. taking a belt of would be a good way to diagnose:)
on the A/F gauge, you will need a wide-band gauge, the narrow band gauge is useless with these O2 sensors.
lol, really could not even guess what would cause that:) ive head a similar experience with the brakes on my, just did new front wheel bearings, front pads and rotors, shocks, and lowering springs, and my brakes would engage every other time, i could press on the pedal as hard as i want, nothing, pedal would not go down, then press again,pedal goes down and brakes engage. took me about 4 hours to figure out that my wheel speed sensors were not pushed down far enough, so my abs was thinking that the wheels were not spinning and would prevent the pedal from engaging.

My lambda is basic, it's got one wire only. You think this gauge wouldn't work with it?
I noticed it has three wires, I figured one is ground other two are signal depending on how many wires the lambda has.

maybe someone can pitch in here as i dont know your engine. but to my knowledge and out of my experience, we need a wide band gauge for these sensors, otherwise it bounces all over the place and you cant get a reading
and yes, usually on those gauges, 1 is to sensor, 1 + or - (cant remember anymore) and one is light