topdown94

I have a 1994 Cabriolet. Last week, the top didn't fold into the storage compartment correctly, and I had to manually raise it back up. It's happened once before in the past 7 years I've owned the car. Before it resumed proper functioning without any problem, but this time it stopped retracting or closing. When the top is closed or fully opened (done manually) the warning indicator in the dashboard in not illuminated or flashing. When the top is closed, the windows are fully raised and the e-brake set, the 4 windows automatically lower as soon as I release the locking lever, as if it's going to retract, but nothing else happens. If I manually release and lock the left emergency release latch, I can hear the trunk lock click. It doesn't happen with the right latch, only the left.

Based on some of the other posts, I tried to lock the doors with the key rather than the remote and key-locked the trunk lid. Neither caused any changes. I checked the top storage compartment for any loose wires or debris that may be interfering with a sensor and found none.

Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated.

hubturn

Because your top is stopping so early in the sequence, this is a tough one to diagnose. Attached are some PDF's of what the sequence is. Also is a generic wiring diagram. Look at the top left of component J256, the Convertible Top Control Module. Look at how many piddly things factor in. Central locking, alarm switches, etc and who except the programmer knows EXACTLY how they factor in. They just have to work and you may not know when they fail. This is looking like a job for a Ross-Tech Vag-Com. Don't bother taking it to Audi. This system is not in their corporate memory anymore and they'd be guessing and charging $$$$.

topdown94

Thanks for the info, suggestions and heads up on the Audi dealers. I was planning on taking it in if I couldn't fix it.

Sllack

Mine is experiencing the same problem. I am going to diagnose this week hopefully and see what I find.

Will let you know.

Sllack

My Driver side cylinder is leaking... so I added fluid to the system (in the trunk unit) - no change.

But there are several capacitors (not sure what they are called), 8 I believe, and 2 are very hot - I have a feeling that may be what is bad, but not sure.

Not going to be an easy part to come by for sure.

If anyone has any other ideas or guides I would appreciate it.

Sure don't want to pay the dealer his estimated $1400 to fix it (but he won't be specific as to what the fix is of course).

hubturn

Those "capacitors" are the solenoid valves. I believe the heat may be caused by the solenoid coils being continually powered. Since you obviously are able to look at the pump and have uncovered the solenoids, using the picture, determine which two solenoids are hot and what they power. I am betting one is N90, the one that opens the top. I believe all the solenoids are the same so you could swap one out for the potentially faulty one and run it again. The limit switches that are integral to the hydraulic cylinders are only in the right hand side of the car. Since the fully open limit signal never makes it to the Conv Top Control Module, I am supposing that power is never removed from the N90 solenoid and it stays commanded to "open" and hence remains powered (as long as you have the console switch held to open). Also, since you have added fluid, it takes a few operations for the top to self bleed. Really, that leaky cylinder needs to be replaced. Let us know what you find.

hubturn

Also, the pump assembly from Audi is $2400. So the $1400 estimate is a totally B***S*** guess. If your Audi dealer knew what they were doing, or anything about the system, they would say they have to put the vag-com on it, charge a diagnostic fee, and THEN quote a repair price. They would have to spend as much time as we are spending learning about the system, they would have to get Self-Study Program 221 The New Audi Cabriolet, to learn about it (pages of which I have posted in this thread) and then maybe they would be able to figure it out. Of course, if they have an old timer there who is familiar with it, that might be a different story. I paid $100 at a junk yard for a back up pump assembly to have on hand. Maybe the solenoids can be ordered and surely the actuator cylinders can.

Sllack

Hubturn, have you ever replaced the solenoids? I loosened one up and pulled a bit but the wiring was attached to it; I am afraid to do more damage?

hubturn

You simply remove the connector (see connector photo) by prying apart the two sides with a couple of small screwdrivers so that it will slip over the solenoid side of the connection. Next, using a 25 Torx screwdriver or bit, remove the two screws holding in the solenoid. If the solenoid will not pull straight out, DELICATELY, slide a small prying tool, like a small screwdriver, under the edge of the solenoid and pry up just to break it free. It will easily come out. IMPORTANT: there is a small spring (look at spring photo)that sits in a hole in the bottom of the hole the solenoid came out of. You won't see it unless you feel for it or soak up all the fluid in the solenoid hole. It must go back in the hole it came out of when you reinstall the solenoid. You will know the spring isn't in the hole if the solenoid won't seat all the way down. One items to reassure me. You are using the same mineral based oil that you use in the power steering (green)? I'm NOT guaranteeing that you have a solenoid problem, but I am curious as to why the are hot.

Sllack

Correct I am using CHF 202.

I will look into more soon and let you know, thanks for all these tips.

Can you also reassure me that mobil 1 synthetic atf is a good choice for this trans? I am nervous since I saw the warning at that guys shop about no dexron III for 95 cabriolets...