Heater Core How-To
05-22-2005, 12:07 PM
#11
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Then why don't you share it with us? Seeing as how that's not physically possible...
the heatercore must be removed from the top of the heaterbox, no amount of seperation will allow that heater to pass through solid matter 
P . And when it is installed in the car, the heatercore is flush up against the top of the solid front deck. So by all means tell us how you manage to defy the laws of physics ;O)
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore1.jpg">
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore2.jpg">
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore3.jpg">
P . And when it is installed in the car, the heatercore is flush up against the top of the solid front deck. So by all means tell us how you manage to defy the laws of physics ;O)<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore1.jpg">
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore2.jpg">
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/anokiernan/Heatercore/heatercore3.jpg">
05-23-2005, 03:04 PM
#16
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Re: Heater Core How-To
Kudos! Wish we had this clear steps when my nephew was doing an r & r on the heater core of my 93 90S.Maybe we would have avoided two problems were still looking at solving. One is that now the airbag light is on. Second is that the turn signals, hazard light and front/rear fog lights are not working.
09-14-2005, 02:19 PM
#17
couple after notes
I busted one of the connectors to the guages right off the silcon chip board. anyways, i had it easily repaired, with a razor knife, some epoxy, a magnifying glass, and a soldering station. whew.. watch that sensor clip when removing the dash.
also, you never mentioned anything about dead rats in the footwell ducting! jeez.
also, you never mentioned anything about dead rats in the footwell ducting! jeez.
04-02-2007, 05:49 PM
#19
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Notes from a 95 Cabriolet R&R
Just did the R&R this past weekend. Some differences:
- The Cabbys have manual HVAC controls. You don't have to disconnect any of the control cables- you can just leave the whole control panel connected and it won't get in the way too badly.
- The passenger side airbag has to come out. It's held with one gigantic Torx bolt that's accessible from underneath once (and only once) the glove box is out. This has to go back in before the glove box also- guess how I know that?
- Once the passenger airbag is out, you need to pull a short section of ducting that's directly behind it.
- Once the short duct AND the airbag are out, you can pull the 4 torx screws they were hiding.
- I also had to pull 3 screws that hold a harness to the driver's side of the dash- these are exposed when the knee panel is removed.
- Once all that's done, the dash comes out complete with most of the ducting.
- The Cabbys have manual HVAC controls. You don't have to disconnect any of the control cables- you can just leave the whole control panel connected and it won't get in the way too badly.
- The passenger side airbag has to come out. It's held with one gigantic Torx bolt that's accessible from underneath once (and only once) the glove box is out. This has to go back in before the glove box also- guess how I know that?
- Once the passenger airbag is out, you need to pull a short section of ducting that's directly behind it.
- Once the short duct AND the airbag are out, you can pull the 4 torx screws they were hiding.
- I also had to pull 3 screws that hold a harness to the driver's side of the dash- these are exposed when the knee panel is removed.
- Once all that's done, the dash comes out complete with most of the ducting.
04-17-2010, 05:16 PM
#20
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1993 Audi 90s quattro sport
I'm changing the heater core on '93 Audi 90 quattro following these instructions. Great write up!
I just wanna add a couple of notes:
- No airbags! Saves some time.
- I couldn't figure out how to remove the shifter boot, the plastic base of it. There is actually a little screw that holds it from the rear side, near the bolt that holds the tunnel to the floor.
- When the time came to remove the dash out, it wouldn't go! First, it was the side vents clipped to the dash board with the wire clips. They could be reached from the bottom. Easy! But then the windshield defroster duct was still holding the dash. After looking around with the flash light, I saw a screw on the left side of the duct. But the space is so tight I couldn't put the screw driver in, so I used the philips bit on the small socket wrench. Worked alright. After that it was free!
I didn't finish it got dark outside, I'll finish tomorrow.
To get to the nuts under the hood I will probably remove the air intake to get more room.
I just wanna add a couple of notes:
- No airbags! Saves some time.
- I couldn't figure out how to remove the shifter boot, the plastic base of it. There is actually a little screw that holds it from the rear side, near the bolt that holds the tunnel to the floor.
- When the time came to remove the dash out, it wouldn't go! First, it was the side vents clipped to the dash board with the wire clips. They could be reached from the bottom. Easy! But then the windshield defroster duct was still holding the dash. After looking around with the flash light, I saw a screw on the left side of the duct. But the space is so tight I couldn't put the screw driver in, so I used the philips bit on the small socket wrench. Worked alright. After that it was free!
I didn't finish it got dark outside, I'll finish tomorrow.
To get to the nuts under the hood I will probably remove the air intake to get more room.