Just picked up a '94 Cabriolet with 73k miles
08-10-2014, 01:08 PM
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Baumeister's '94 Cabriolet (73k miles)
Hi all,
My first post here, but I'm a regular on the TDI Forum. I just acquired a white '94 Cabriolet as a bit of a project car. It's my first Audi, but my wife and I have owned a 2003 New Beetle TDI since new, a 2004 Passat 1.8t for 6 years, and I previously owned an '88 BMW 535ia that I did a ton of work on.
The good:
1. Only 73k miles
2. White paint and body are perfect. It's been re-painted at some point but it was done very,very well.
3. Receipts for $4,200 of recent work. Timing belt, other engine seals, ignition switch, several other fixes.
4. New battery and tires.
5. New external trans cooler.
6. Headliner in OK shape but looks to need some new loops sewn in. I'm thinking of sewing in velcro?
7. Tan leather seats in not too bad of shape...in need of a good clean and heavy conditioning. Maybe a re-cover or seat swap out down the road if we keep it.
8 Only VAG-Com error is 00518 Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
The Bad:
1. Tranny will only kickdown from 4-3 in sport mode. VAG-Com only lists a TPS signal out of range , haven't looked at the wiring or actual readout yet.
2. Tranny is leaking somewhere, hopefully something simple
3. Driver's side seat belt will not extend(Fixed this last night, where the upholstery gets tucked under the panel and glued came loose and jammed into the rollers, wish I looked there before taking the whole back seat/side trim off.)
4. No courtesy lights work(between sun visors, in glove box, or trunk light.)
5. Driver's side seat only clicks into the furthest and nearest detents. I have it out of the car right now to troubleshoot.
6. Neither seatback release works(to fold forward for rear access.
7. Rear left window switch only lowers window, will not raise it(but master switch works)
8. At least one instrument cluster illumination bulb out(engine temp, have new 2w bulbs on order)
9. Rear defrost fan switch works intermittently.
10. Original canvas top in excellent shape, except for the now opaque window. The seller threw in a new top, but its pinpoint vinyl. I've fitted upholstery before so I'm gonna tackle it. I have the Bentley and have located a few other resources.
11. Rear taillight lenses cracked, but only noticable up close. Is there a source for these?
12. Right side fog lens cracked but operable.
13. Of course, the electric top doesn't work. But neither does the power antenna. I haven't opened up the trunk hinge wiring yet but that'll be the first place I start.
14. A/C fan barely worked. (I then replaced both fan and resistor, BIG difference).
Hopefully the above is the majority of issues. The car appears to have been sitting in a garage for at least a few years prior to the $4200 repair bill.
If I can knock out the above list of fixes without too many more cropping up, my original intent was to swap in a Euro TDI engine/5speed exactly like the OE fitment in other markets. The goal is a 40-50plus MPG convertible for commuting with an easily maintained/moddable engine. Likely shooting for 140HP/265ft-lbs torque.
Thanks for reading, and for any tips offered!!
Baumeister
Auburn,CA
My first post here, but I'm a regular on the TDI Forum. I just acquired a white '94 Cabriolet as a bit of a project car. It's my first Audi, but my wife and I have owned a 2003 New Beetle TDI since new, a 2004 Passat 1.8t for 6 years, and I previously owned an '88 BMW 535ia that I did a ton of work on.
The good:
1. Only 73k miles
2. White paint and body are perfect. It's been re-painted at some point but it was done very,very well.
3. Receipts for $4,200 of recent work. Timing belt, other engine seals, ignition switch, several other fixes.
4. New battery and tires.
5. New external trans cooler.
6. Headliner in OK shape but looks to need some new loops sewn in. I'm thinking of sewing in velcro?
7. Tan leather seats in not too bad of shape...in need of a good clean and heavy conditioning. Maybe a re-cover or seat swap out down the road if we keep it.
8 Only VAG-Com error is 00518 Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
The Bad:
1. Tranny will only kickdown from 4-3 in sport mode. VAG-Com only lists a TPS signal out of range , haven't looked at the wiring or actual readout yet.
2. Tranny is leaking somewhere, hopefully something simple
3. Driver's side seat belt will not extend(Fixed this last night, where the upholstery gets tucked under the panel and glued came loose and jammed into the rollers, wish I looked there before taking the whole back seat/side trim off.)
4. No courtesy lights work(between sun visors, in glove box, or trunk light.)
5. Driver's side seat only clicks into the furthest and nearest detents. I have it out of the car right now to troubleshoot.
6. Neither seatback release works(to fold forward for rear access.
7. Rear left window switch only lowers window, will not raise it(but master switch works)
8. At least one instrument cluster illumination bulb out(engine temp, have new 2w bulbs on order)
9. Rear defrost fan switch works intermittently.
10. Original canvas top in excellent shape, except for the now opaque window. The seller threw in a new top, but its pinpoint vinyl. I've fitted upholstery before so I'm gonna tackle it. I have the Bentley and have located a few other resources.
11. Rear taillight lenses cracked, but only noticable up close. Is there a source for these?
12. Right side fog lens cracked but operable.
13. Of course, the electric top doesn't work. But neither does the power antenna. I haven't opened up the trunk hinge wiring yet but that'll be the first place I start.
14. A/C fan barely worked. (I then replaced both fan and resistor, BIG difference).
Hopefully the above is the majority of issues. The car appears to have been sitting in a garage for at least a few years prior to the $4200 repair bill.
If I can knock out the above list of fixes without too many more cropping up, my original intent was to swap in a Euro TDI engine/5speed exactly like the OE fitment in other markets. The goal is a 40-50plus MPG convertible for commuting with an easily maintained/moddable engine. Likely shooting for 140HP/265ft-lbs torque.
Thanks for reading, and for any tips offered!!
Baumeister
Auburn,CA
Last edited by Baumeister; 07-05-2015 at 09:53 PM.
08-11-2014, 04:43 AM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Welcome to the Cabriolet club!
A few comments...
Sounds like a good pickup for a low mileage and good body car!
TPS Sensor is pretty easy to check...
Connect multimeter to following terminals, in turn:
Terminals 1 and 2:
Must be 1500-2600 ohms
Terminals 2 and 3:
Must be 750-1300 ohms
Measure resistance again while bringing throttle lever slowly to Wide Open Throttle (WOT) position.
Must increase to 3600 ohms maximum
If you don't get these values you'll want to replace it. They're pretty common among Audis of the era - I might even have a spare
The window replacement is supposedly a bitch to do. I ended up finding a newish top from a junkyard and replacing the entire top (frame included) which also was a bear.
The Bentley will have pretty good troubleshooting steps for the electric top. It could be as simple as low pentosin in the pump. I'd start there. The cylinders tend to leak and when the fluid gets below a certain point it will keep it from trying to work.
As for the transmission, the best thing I ever did to my car was to swap in the 5-speed. There's a ton of info on this site about the swaps. Search the forum archive here, quattroworld and on Motorgeek too.
enjoy!
A few comments...
Sounds like a good pickup for a low mileage and good body car!
TPS Sensor is pretty easy to check...
Connect multimeter to following terminals, in turn:
Terminals 1 and 2:
Must be 1500-2600 ohms
Terminals 2 and 3:
Must be 750-1300 ohms
Measure resistance again while bringing throttle lever slowly to Wide Open Throttle (WOT) position.
Must increase to 3600 ohms maximum
If you don't get these values you'll want to replace it. They're pretty common among Audis of the era - I might even have a spare
The window replacement is supposedly a bitch to do. I ended up finding a newish top from a junkyard and replacing the entire top (frame included) which also was a bear.
The Bentley will have pretty good troubleshooting steps for the electric top. It could be as simple as low pentosin in the pump. I'd start there. The cylinders tend to leak and when the fluid gets below a certain point it will keep it from trying to work.
As for the transmission, the best thing I ever did to my car was to swap in the 5-speed. There's a ton of info on this site about the swaps. Search the forum archive here, quattroworld and on Motorgeek too.
enjoy!
08-11-2014, 09:40 PM
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Thanks, Grillage!
And thanks for the TPS sensor check instructions. Funny thing, the first tool I decided to keep in this car was a multimeter! I had grabbed it to check the A/C fan and decided..."Yeah, I'm going to need this again on this car." Stuck it in the passenger door pocket.
I forgot to mention I already swapped out the trunk struts that were shot. I got it up on ramps today to figure out the puddle of ATF. Was hoping it was from the new tranny cooler connection, something just to tighten up. I'm going to have to de-grease before I know for sure but my gut's telling me its the transaxle or torque converter seal and not something easy like a warped pan. Both outer CV boots are torn as well. Took it on a quick test drive and the A/C sure isn't very cold with the new fan going full blast now.
So it looks more and more like I'll be springing for the TDI 5 speed swap into this one. I'm going to fix the rest of the electrical gremlins, fix the top, and let my wife drive it awhile before deciding on the swap. She's all for it though, she hates automatics.
And thanks for the TPS sensor check instructions. Funny thing, the first tool I decided to keep in this car was a multimeter! I had grabbed it to check the A/C fan and decided..."Yeah, I'm going to need this again on this car." Stuck it in the passenger door pocket.
I forgot to mention I already swapped out the trunk struts that were shot. I got it up on ramps today to figure out the puddle of ATF. Was hoping it was from the new tranny cooler connection, something just to tighten up. I'm going to have to de-grease before I know for sure but my gut's telling me its the transaxle or torque converter seal and not something easy like a warped pan. Both outer CV boots are torn as well. Took it on a quick test drive and the A/C sure isn't very cold with the new fan going full blast now.
So it looks more and more like I'll be springing for the TDI 5 speed swap into this one. I'm going to fix the rest of the electrical gremlins, fix the top, and let my wife drive it awhile before deciding on the swap. She's all for it though, she hates automatics.
08-12-2014, 08:36 AM
#4
Congtatulations for joining the Cabriolet Club. First I thought you bough my second Cabrio, I just sold it for $4200 and it was 72 888 miles, but looks like its not mine, because my transmission was very good.. somehow better than it was back in 97...
Putting 5 speed TDI will be awesome. In Europe I drive Skoda Superb 1.9TDI 131 hp with 5 speed manual and its like a rocket for the size of the car it is. I guess this engine and transmission is also available here in the US. Its not the common rail, but its "duse-pump" (not sure that is the right translation) SO far is 300 000 km and its just like its new. Soon as you put good clean diesel in it will last. If you do the swap, please provide pictures for somebody like me who will do it in the future.
I also have another cabriolet as daily driver and I am thinking to put (and probably will) new engine 2.8v6 but with manual gearbox.
Putting 5 speed TDI will be awesome. In Europe I drive Skoda Superb 1.9TDI 131 hp with 5 speed manual and its like a rocket for the size of the car it is. I guess this engine and transmission is also available here in the US. Its not the common rail, but its "duse-pump" (not sure that is the right translation) SO far is 300 000 km and its just like its new. Soon as you put good clean diesel in it will last. If you do the swap, please provide pictures for somebody like me who will do it in the future.
I also have another cabriolet as daily driver and I am thinking to put (and probably will) new engine 2.8v6 but with manual gearbox.
08-13-2014, 07:32 AM
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i have a 2.8 with a 5 speed swap..... but at 80mph the rpm's are around 3500 or a little higher, i would love to swap a different 5 speed or 6 speed >>>>>> 6 SPEED in SO the TDI trans sounds interesting, which trans code please post some more info
08-17-2014, 11:50 AM
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Just checking in...I haven't had a whole lot of time to work on this car, but I have been able to fix a few things:
1. Ordered the seat fix kit from ECS Tuning. Installed on the driver's side seat, and figured out that the seatback release cables are stretched with no adjustment available. I thought about putting a turnbuckle in, but decided to try strategically installing a bolt in the seat frame to route the cable around and take up some slack. Has worked well enough so far on the driver's side, haven't done the passenger side yet.
2. I had the rear seats out to fix the seatbelt. Cleaned the leather with Dow aerosol Bathroom cleaner and a scrub brush. I didn't really scrub that much, just got the real nasty stuff off the tan leather. Rinsed and treated a few times with Lexol-NF and I'm trying Leather Honey for the first time. I haven't touched the front seats yet, they're not torn yet but pretty well cracked. They look like one of the previous owners wore new Levi's in it every day, they're a bit blue-tinged.
3. A/C fan now working...not too cool though. I ordered a R-134 re-charge/leak stop/UV dye kit and I understand I need the "Mastercool 82272 - R134 Tank Adapter 1/2 Acme Female" to use it? Where is the low-side valve/sensor? I briefly looked it over and nothing looked too familiar?
4. I decided last night to start on the trunk hinge wiring. Opened up the passenger side and found the entire bundle snapped clean through. Soldered 'em all and used heat shrink...got a bit excited and tried the electric top right after. A few more clicks but no hydraulic action. I then opened up the Driver's side..not as bad...some insulation breaks but only the ground wire was broken. Twisted that back together and decided to try the top again. Central locks now working BUT
Couldn't get the trunk unlocked. Key would no longer turn that way. Keys worked in the doors, trunk lock will lock doors and activate alarm(that didn't work before either, of course). Decided to clean myself up, come in the house and check the forums.
(I know all of you would have told me what was really going on...but I think you'll all enjoy walking through my process)
After sleeping on it, decided this morning to pull central lock fuse...that didn't do it. Was going to put the top up manually and try the trunk lock again. As I lifted the top cover flap to unlock the driver side, it became apparent that the passenger side top cover was unlocked.
OH.
Locked both sides back down and tried the trunk again. VICTORY! Put the fuse back in and locks all seem to be working as they should.
With car running, brake on, doors locked...top now unlocks the top cover and "tries" to lift the top cover...doesn't get more than an inch. So on to the fluid level, right? Would the previous owner likely have disconnected anything to get the top working manually?
I still have the driver's side trunk hinge wires apart. Had to stop for some other chores and kids stuff(they're 6 and 8). Kinda excited to take the trunk apart now to get at the hydraulic reservoir. I may even have some CHF 11s in the garage.
Baumeister
Auburn, CA
1. Ordered the seat fix kit from ECS Tuning. Installed on the driver's side seat, and figured out that the seatback release cables are stretched with no adjustment available. I thought about putting a turnbuckle in, but decided to try strategically installing a bolt in the seat frame to route the cable around and take up some slack. Has worked well enough so far on the driver's side, haven't done the passenger side yet.
2. I had the rear seats out to fix the seatbelt. Cleaned the leather with Dow aerosol Bathroom cleaner and a scrub brush. I didn't really scrub that much, just got the real nasty stuff off the tan leather. Rinsed and treated a few times with Lexol-NF and I'm trying Leather Honey for the first time. I haven't touched the front seats yet, they're not torn yet but pretty well cracked. They look like one of the previous owners wore new Levi's in it every day, they're a bit blue-tinged.
3. A/C fan now working...not too cool though. I ordered a R-134 re-charge/leak stop/UV dye kit and I understand I need the "Mastercool 82272 - R134 Tank Adapter 1/2 Acme Female" to use it? Where is the low-side valve/sensor? I briefly looked it over and nothing looked too familiar?
4. I decided last night to start on the trunk hinge wiring. Opened up the passenger side and found the entire bundle snapped clean through. Soldered 'em all and used heat shrink...got a bit excited and tried the electric top right after. A few more clicks but no hydraulic action. I then opened up the Driver's side..not as bad...some insulation breaks but only the ground wire was broken. Twisted that back together and decided to try the top again. Central locks now working BUT
Couldn't get the trunk unlocked. Key would no longer turn that way. Keys worked in the doors, trunk lock will lock doors and activate alarm(that didn't work before either, of course). Decided to clean myself up, come in the house and check the forums.
(I know all of you would have told me what was really going on...but I think you'll all enjoy walking through my process)
After sleeping on it, decided this morning to pull central lock fuse...that didn't do it. Was going to put the top up manually and try the trunk lock again. As I lifted the top cover flap to unlock the driver side, it became apparent that the passenger side top cover was unlocked.
OH.
Locked both sides back down and tried the trunk again. VICTORY! Put the fuse back in and locks all seem to be working as they should.
With car running, brake on, doors locked...top now unlocks the top cover and "tries" to lift the top cover...doesn't get more than an inch. So on to the fluid level, right? Would the previous owner likely have disconnected anything to get the top working manually?
I still have the driver's side trunk hinge wires apart. Had to stop for some other chores and kids stuff(they're 6 and 8). Kinda excited to take the trunk apart now to get at the hydraulic reservoir. I may even have some CHF 11s in the garage.
Baumeister
Auburn, CA
08-17-2014, 11:55 AM
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5 speed swap
Edgedesant,
In our ALH-engine 2003 New Beetle, it has an EGR code 5 speed. The 5th gear in these is somewhat easily swappable. In the EGR code trans 5th gear is a .756. I swapped it for a .658 and dropped the revs at 70mph about 500-600rpm, IIRC. Maybe gained a MPG or 2, but the real winner was the reduction in cabin noise. It's a big jump now from 4th to 5th but it's really hardly noticeable.
In our ALH-engine 2003 New Beetle, it has an EGR code 5 speed. The 5th gear in these is somewhat easily swappable. In the EGR code trans 5th gear is a .756. I swapped it for a .658 and dropped the revs at 70mph about 500-600rpm, IIRC. Maybe gained a MPG or 2, but the real winner was the reduction in cabin noise. It's a big jump now from 4th to 5th but it's really hardly noticeable.
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08-17-2014, 11:58 AM
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gag4o, where are you located? If I do this swap, I'll have this 2.8V6 I'll be looking to sell. It is an AAF, but it is only 73k and a new timing belt less than 1k miles ago(last year).
Congtatulations for joining the Cabriolet Club. First I thought you bough my second Cabrio, I just sold it for $4200 and it was 72 888 miles, but looks like its not mine, because my transmission was very good.. somehow better than it was back in 97...
Putting 5 speed TDI will be awesome. In Europe I drive Skoda Superb 1.9TDI 131 hp with 5 speed manual and its like a rocket for the size of the car it is. I guess this engine and transmission is also available here in the US. Its not the common rail, but its "duse-pump" (not sure that is the right translation) SO far is 300 000 km and its just like its new. Soon as you put good clean diesel in it will last. If you do the swap, please provide pictures for somebody like me who will do it in the future.
I also have another cabriolet as daily driver and I am thinking to put (and probably will) new engine 2.8v6 but with manual gearbox.
Putting 5 speed TDI will be awesome. In Europe I drive Skoda Superb 1.9TDI 131 hp with 5 speed manual and its like a rocket for the size of the car it is. I guess this engine and transmission is also available here in the US. Its not the common rail, but its "duse-pump" (not sure that is the right translation) SO far is 300 000 km and its just like its new. Soon as you put good clean diesel in it will last. If you do the swap, please provide pictures for somebody like me who will do it in the future.
I also have another cabriolet as daily driver and I am thinking to put (and probably will) new engine 2.8v6 but with manual gearbox.
08-17-2014, 05:05 PM
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ARGGHH!! I'm getting so, so, frickin' close! The reservoir was empty...filled it to max with a pipette, operated the top...started to work and then stalls. Re-fill reservoir and repeat. And again. Improvement each time.
But for some boneheaded reason during the 3rd try I decided to fully latch the front t-handle, and now it will only unlatch 90 degrees and not the full 180 required.
So I'm stuck!
I have the key on (tried engine on and off) E-Brake on(with light), windows down, doors locked.
It will turn 90 degrees and the dash light for the top comes on solid but I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm missing to get it to 180? I had this happen the first time I put the top up and can't recall at all what it was?
But for some boneheaded reason during the 3rd try I decided to fully latch the front t-handle, and now it will only unlatch 90 degrees and not the full 180 required.
So I'm stuck!
I have the key on (tried engine on and off) E-Brake on(with light), windows down, doors locked.
It will turn 90 degrees and the dash light for the top comes on solid but I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm missing to get it to 180? I had this happen the first time I put the top up and can't recall at all what it was?
