my 1990 cq troubles me!!!
 

i purchased it for $700 about 3 months ago from a guy that told me it needed a head gasket. after tearing it down and doing the head gasket, timing belt, water pump, etc... i started the car and it did not run any different. it had a new rad. when i purchased it and i came to find all the cooling issues were from a faulty coolant cap!!! i never had a 20v before this one and it seems really sluggish to me. it starts to wake up at about 2700 rpm but still not impressing me. 0-60 feels like 8 or 9 seconds and there is a slight hesitation through the whole rpm band. so next i was thinking maybe it might be injectors so i was going to go with this kit- http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=329 - not exactly sure what else the issue may be and i would like some insight from someone else that may have encountered this hesitation or am i just imagining this all and the cq is supposed to be so sluggish

1990 Cq trouble...
 

I have done the injector mod you mention, and am very happy. However your issue may not be just those alone. It may be you have other items needing attention, some of which are simpler/cheaper and should just be confirmed prior; if you haven't already done them.

For instance this humble list, compiled from issues found when I first picked up my 20V Sedan; & Coupe. The drive-ability of both was very poor and some simple road-side attention to the following helped quite a bit:

a.) Air cleaner was oiled cotton or just plain filthy;
b.) MAF sensor dirty;
c.) MAF to Throttle-Body black elbow split;
d.) Idle screw-hole O-ring past best-before date;
e.) Eng. vacuum, air leaks, & OEM vacuum hoses (large & small) all leaking;
f.) ISV dirty.
g.) Distributor cap, rotor & wires all require individual confirmation of condition.

Have you pulled the (possibly hidden/stored) codes to confirm there are none?

The original injectors simply may not now be spraying or closing perfectly (i.e. they are always leaking somewhat) but the car might still run fairly decently with poor mileage perhaps, but the tired old original injector to intake-manifold air seals; may not be great, and may give you a drive-ability issue.

The above should, especially the air leak checks (such as the basic: how much vacuum does your engine pull at idle when fully warmed-up?), both before and after the throttle-body should help point you towards whether the injector job should be the next one on your list.

Hope this helps.

i replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs during the head gasket job. i sprayed starting fluid in various places inside the engine compartment to check for vacuum leaks and found none. new air flter was placed during head job also... right now the symptoms seem to point to dirty fuel filter. i was test driving it again, and hit the freeway. after getting to about 65mph it started to get sluggish and slow down, to the point of stalling. luckily i was near an exit when it happened and i pulled off into a hotel parking lot. after about 5 minutes it started right up again, but stalled out after a couple of minutes. i am guessing fuel filter because my old 4cyl. 80 did the same to me once. (just once) might be the issue i have been pursuing. had to special order the part because the local guys did not have the bosch oem. i kept everything original when removing/replacing so far. i get the new filter today i think, and i will update at the point of replacement. thank you for the input. if this works out i am still going for the injector upgrade. it is one of the prerequisites for the the turbo kit that 034 has engineered for the 7A motor. http://www.034motorsport.com/product...ducts_id=19679
i will keep posting until the search is over for my gremlin!

I was in a similar position a few months ago. I bought a 1990 20v coupe quattro for the measly sum of $300 because of a extremely rough idle and virtually no power (stalling out at every stop). All that I did to the car was pay the $300 for a new set of injectors from 034 and also run seafoam oil through the engine (i used the cruse control vacuum line)
I strongly recommend the injector kit, however do not pay for the "adapter harness" because you can get both the female and male connectors of the kit from the door of a 1990's 100 or 200. All you do is solder the three wires together (so all three are one).

ok i ordered the 034 injector kit! and the seafoam would be pointless because i cleaned everything when i did the head gasket. i also replaced the fuel pump and purged the whole fuel system. i will re-post results as soon as i get the kit!

Cool, keep us posted... I am looking at that kit too.

ok where do i find the harness on the door that you are talking about?... the tech article here on audi world just says splice all 6 wires together

ok injectors came in yesterday... i did not get in until 10:30 so i will have to get them done today!!!

i said screw it and started the job before i went to work.... it took me all but 15 minutes to do the job! it now idles correctly and the stutter is gone! i will take it out for a good test drive when i get home tonight... and 3 of the 5 old injectors were bad, so i was running on 2 cylinders... lol, no wonder i was so disappointed with the car!

lol, nice:-) anything else you are planing on doing to it?