rendyx

I was playing around today again with the CQ, and found that the #5 plug I thought had gas on it from a leaky injector was actually oil. Upon looking down the plug well, I could see #5 had oil/oil residue at the bottom, while the other cylinders did not. The oil on the plug is on the lower half of the threads (cylinder side), and on the tip, which looks pretty black and fouled to me.

I know my valve seals aren't perfect, I get a puff of blue smoke now and then. Would this be the problem, or something else?

repeater

If your cylinder pressures are all consistent, then it's the valve seals that are shot.

rendyx

I've done some valve lash jobs, but that's about it when it comes to the valvetrain.

repeater

It envolves pressurizing the cylinder and locking the engine in TDC for each cylinder to keep the valve from dropping. Generally, I take the heads off, this way you can deck them, re-lap the valves, and do headgaskets all in one shebang. Doing the "head-on" method can be troublesome because the valve keepers are often stuck and the valve needs to be whacked good with a deadblow hammer to get them loose. I generally put a folded towell under the head on the bench to keep the valve snug and do this. I've only done one "on car" valve seal job and that was a GM 4.3 - or 2.8, I don't remember - something in a GMC Jimmy. Anyways, there's your options.

rendyx

Anything else I should address while under there if I tackle it?

billzcat1

No better time to put in some new lifters...and a timing belt/water pump if your car needs it

repeater

If you DIY everything. Seals, lifters, gaskets, timing belt, WP, your looking at no more than 300-350.00 in parts and machine work and a ton of labor time - but then EVERYTHING is done.

OCDaudi90q

Im leaving the heads on to try and save some labor time and costs. Ill let you know how everythign turns out if you do the vale seals with the head on the car. It requires a lot of special tools, but i think it'll be worth it in the amount of time it saves. Im hoping to have everything done in one day!!! Who knows though. Im replacing waterpump,timing belt, timing belt roller, timing belt tensioner,valve seals,valve cover gaskets,camshaft seals. I'd like to do lifters while Im at it but I can't afford that at the moment. They are somewhere in the ballpark of 10-12 each. I also need a direct fit catalytic converter, and a new cv joint. Muffler shops around here want 250 to weld in a universal cat when i can get a direct fit for 260. I'd rather do work myself. Ill keep in touch tho and tell you how it goes after i complete this project.

OCDaudi90q

the numbers came back and each were around 190-200 with one cyl at 150. I was relieved that the rings were still somewhat good. Just remember to hold the throttle fully open when your cranking the engine. Just a reminder