Power window issue
03-21-2017, 03:57 AM
#11
Excellent..simple repair..probably the last fellow did not get that module in correctly and you had a problem.
Good luck with the reservoir cap..hope you have the later model car with the port to remove the front holding bolt..makes the job easier.
Good luck with the reservoir cap..hope you have the later model car with the port to remove the front holding bolt..makes the job easier.
03-21-2017, 03:26 PM
#12
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Rusty
I wish, it's a 94 with no access hole for the front nut. I was going to tackle it myself, however, due to moving fuel tank and then bleeding the system after I think I will let a mechanic do it.
I wish, it's a 94 with no access hole for the front nut. I was going to tackle it myself, however, due to moving fuel tank and then bleeding the system after I think I will let a mechanic do it.
08-21-2018, 02:59 AM
#13
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That center window switch lowers the windows via the control unit for the convertible top. Good news..that is working.
The window switches on the door have a different control..via relays and power.
Under the drivers side kick panel..the supplemental fuse/relay panel look for the thermal fuses. Your problem could be a faulty thermal fuse S 43 (30A)
While you are there..pull relay #367 and check the contacts..those relays have a reputation for cold solder points too. Be sure the pins are clean and pull the plastic cover off and look for discolored solder points.
Look at page 8 for the wiring diagram. see the link: http://12v.org/urs/1996_Audi_Cabriol...g_Diagrams.pdf
Some advise from the UK: https://www.audifans.net/ftopict-38530-.html
The window switches on the door have a different control..via relays and power.
Under the drivers side kick panel..the supplemental fuse/relay panel look for the thermal fuses. Your problem could be a faulty thermal fuse S 43 (30A)
While you are there..pull relay #367 and check the contacts..those relays have a reputation for cold solder points too. Be sure the pins are clean and pull the plastic cover off and look for discolored solder points.
Look at page 8 for the wiring diagram. see the link: http://12v.org/urs/1996_Audi_Cabriol...g_Diagrams.pdf
Some advise from the UK: https://www.audifans.net/ftopict-38530-.html
you realy save my butt !
I took my wife to music festival and when we finally found the safe place to park the whole car was closed except the driver's window than I have checked all fuses but no luck.
So had to go back home to exchange the car.
But the next day I was trying to find on the WEB how to get on relays and then I have noticed your advise !
So I did exactly what you recommend and it took me third time look on the desk to discover the cold solder.
After that it was just nice to put it all back together and see how the window switches on the door are iluminated again so it was pleasure to press the one for driver's window and here the sound of rolling window.
thx gooood job Rusty !
10-09-2018, 04:34 AM
#14
More Windows and roof !
Great to read all of this. My car is semi in pieces while I replace the drivers side window. The jobs gone well and the door interior is non rusty. There's two things I'd value any clarity on.
1
the door window is clamped between two alloy blocks in effect, each capped / faced with a curved nylon pad. I note the cap for the alloy running block is a snug fit with its sides just wrapping round the block. On my car it wasn't that snug and I found 2 alloy shims between the nylon cap and the block (one top and one bottom) . Marks show they have been in there years and I'm willing to believe they are Audi. I cannot imagine why they are needed because other shims give you window alignment ext. Possibly they are there so that when the window is at the end of the run and the blocks twist a bit on the runners, the alloy shims allow a bit of a twist slip without loading the glass? . I'd be grateful for any advice or thoughts. I've not mic'd the shims but I guess they are around .25 mm or o.o1o inches .
2
Hood hyd. Reservoir. I'm sure my 1995 car could do with a top up or new fluid although all works and no leaks found in boot/trunk. Please tell me what the filler cap looks like and any advice on the merits of draining and adding new fluid would be great to have.
Thanks again for the info in the earlier exchanges
Many thanks
1
the door window is clamped between two alloy blocks in effect, each capped / faced with a curved nylon pad. I note the cap for the alloy running block is a snug fit with its sides just wrapping round the block. On my car it wasn't that snug and I found 2 alloy shims between the nylon cap and the block (one top and one bottom) . Marks show they have been in there years and I'm willing to believe they are Audi. I cannot imagine why they are needed because other shims give you window alignment ext. Possibly they are there so that when the window is at the end of the run and the blocks twist a bit on the runners, the alloy shims allow a bit of a twist slip without loading the glass? . I'd be grateful for any advice or thoughts. I've not mic'd the shims but I guess they are around .25 mm or o.o1o inches .
2
Hood hyd. Reservoir. I'm sure my 1995 car could do with a top up or new fluid although all works and no leaks found in boot/trunk. Please tell me what the filler cap looks like and any advice on the merits of draining and adding new fluid would be great to have.
Thanks again for the info in the earlier exchanges
Many thanks
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