UrSoccer_mobileĀ®

Any trick in doing so?

Is there a particular sequence on tightening the bolts?

And what are the torque specs on them?

TIA

btw, has any of you running your car without the undertray? I am monitoring the leak and it's a pain to bring the car up and down to check on them..

henrylford

never tighten one side up first you should zig zag like you woud with lug nuts or the head bolts that way you do not bend or worp the pan That is the way i was told when i change one a few years ago

repeater

My undertray fell off on I465 outside Indianapolis. I'm sure some homeless guy's using it to line his hut. As long as you can get the pan out it's pretty straitforward. Usually the K member is in the way and involves lifting the motor to get it out. Don't know on a 2.8, never done one. Bolts go on snug. Just snug. Never overtighten on little bolts like those. Start in the middle and work towards the outside crossing over each time. That's just general, of course. LATERS!

Mr. fix-it

When they start leaking, it will sometimes look like an oil pan leak among other things.

UrSoccer_mobileĀ®

Well, you could be right since only the corner (driver side/back part of the pan is wet.

then where the hell are they located? any pics on them? Any idea on price if need replacement?

TY

Mr. fix-it

Right behind the oil cooler. Cost is about $5 for the switches. Changing them is another story. The front one is pretty straight forward the back one can be a real PITA.

UrSoccer_mobileĀ®

The oil cooler area seems to be dry. But if you replace the sensor, does the oil cooler need to be removed?

I really suspect it's the pan gasket although weired or maybe not because only that corner is wet/damped.

But if you look above as I have thoroughly done until my neck started hurting, there are no wet spots coming from up there.

budlight

you take out a large thing to get it out. They are known to go bad.