Timing issue or oil pump?
05-06-2006, 10:06 PM
#1
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Timing issue or oil pump?
Replaced oil pump gasket, crankshaft seal, upper/lower pan gaskets this weekend and after reassembly started her up.
There's a pretty loud ticking noise now and I'm not sure what the cause is.
1995 90Q, AFC engine
I have the audi tools for timing belt and used them, but while popping off the passenger side cam sprocket it rolled back the wrong way about an 8th of a turn. I put it back into alignment and kept it locked in place with the tool the rest of the way through.
I'm not sure if that would have taken me out of timing or if there is an issue with the oil pump where no oil is getting to the top of the engine.
It idled for all of 3 minutes while I listened over the engine and the valve covers warmed up but everything on the bottom side, oil pan and filter were still cold.
Any advice on if my timing is off and I should be pricing new valves or could I have an oil blockage and the knocking is a dry top half of the engine?
Thanks!
There's a pretty loud ticking noise now and I'm not sure what the cause is.
1995 90Q, AFC engine
I have the audi tools for timing belt and used them, but while popping off the passenger side cam sprocket it rolled back the wrong way about an 8th of a turn. I put it back into alignment and kept it locked in place with the tool the rest of the way through.
I'm not sure if that would have taken me out of timing or if there is an issue with the oil pump where no oil is getting to the top of the engine.
It idled for all of 3 minutes while I listened over the engine and the valve covers warmed up but everything on the bottom side, oil pan and filter were still cold.
Any advice on if my timing is off and I should be pricing new valves or could I have an oil blockage and the knocking is a dry top half of the engine?
Thanks!
05-07-2006, 09:42 AM
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Re: "Verify" timing...
I'm not sure if this counts as verifying, but...
After I finished the gasket/seal replacements I put the timing belt back on and set tension using the cam holder tool (Crank holding pin was in throughout the whole process). I removed the cam/crank tools and turned the crankshaft over twice by hand using the 24mm 12-point driver and didn't feel any more resistance than what I thought was normal. After two revolutions I stopped when the TDC marks on the crank were in alignment and the cam tool went on with no problem.
Would this make you feel confident that timing was correct? If not, what would be the next step to verify it?
Appreciate the help and guidance!
After I finished the gasket/seal replacements I put the timing belt back on and set tension using the cam holder tool (Crank holding pin was in throughout the whole process). I removed the cam/crank tools and turned the crankshaft over twice by hand using the 24mm 12-point driver and didn't feel any more resistance than what I thought was normal. After two revolutions I stopped when the TDC marks on the crank were in alignment and the cam tool went on with no problem.
Would this make you feel confident that timing was correct? If not, what would be the next step to verify it?
Appreciate the help and guidance!
05-07-2006, 02:41 PM
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Re: Sounds like your timings right....
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/54329/tdc_marks.jpg"></center><p>
Phew...I hope!
Engine sat dry without the oil pans on since last Friday night, so about 7 days. Refilled it with Castrol semi-synthetic 10w-40 oil yesterday. I put in 5 quarts to start it with and was going to top it off but heard the loud noises and stopped everything until I had some feedback from the forum here.
Could it just be a matter of letting it run long enough to get oil back up to the top or something along those lines?
I spent today taking off the timing belt again just to make sure everything was lined up correctly. Only thing I could see there was the vibration damper has about a quarter inch of "play" where it moves +/- dead center by an 8th of an inch each way, before putting the 8 bolts in tight. If I center it between the left and right "play" points, the TDC marks are perfect.
Phew...I hope!
Engine sat dry without the oil pans on since last Friday night, so about 7 days. Refilled it with Castrol semi-synthetic 10w-40 oil yesterday. I put in 5 quarts to start it with and was going to top it off but heard the loud noises and stopped everything until I had some feedback from the forum here.
Could it just be a matter of letting it run long enough to get oil back up to the top or something along those lines?
I spent today taking off the timing belt again just to make sure everything was lined up correctly. Only thing I could see there was the vibration damper has about a quarter inch of "play" where it moves +/- dead center by an 8th of an inch each way, before putting the 8 bolts in tight. If I center it between the left and right "play" points, the TDC marks are perfect.
05-07-2006, 03:57 PM
#6
More than likely...
its your lifters, from sitting for 7 days with no oil pressure.
How many miles on the motor?
Let the motor idle, until it reaches normal operating temp, then see if the noise goes away?<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/44635.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/44635.phtml</a</li></ul>
How many miles on the motor?
Let the motor idle, until it reaches normal operating temp, then see if the noise goes away?<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/44635.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/44635.phtml</a</li></ul>
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05-07-2006, 05:40 PM
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Re: More than likely...
Fired it up and let it warm to normal temperature at idle, made the knocking noise the whole time and never got any better.
The top of the engine is hot to the touch, oil pan still cold as ice.
Is there any way to prime the oil system to get the flow started? Should I put more oil in? I already have the first 5 quarts in and the stick reads max.
Sorry I forgot to mention this earlier, but I also changed the oil pressure sender, not switch,- single probe with no gauge cluster in the center console.
Prior to this job it was leaking oil and I noticed the wire was broke to the point it was not connected. I fixed the wire with a squeeze connector and when plugged in I have an oil warning light on. I didn't notice the warning light before because the wire was not hooked up the first time I started it. Even with it plugged in and the oil light on, same noise, same hot top cold bottom.
The top of the engine is hot to the touch, oil pan still cold as ice.
Is there any way to prime the oil system to get the flow started? Should I put more oil in? I already have the first 5 quarts in and the stick reads max.
Sorry I forgot to mention this earlier, but I also changed the oil pressure sender, not switch,- single probe with no gauge cluster in the center console.
Prior to this job it was leaking oil and I noticed the wire was broke to the point it was not connected. I fixed the wire with a squeeze connector and when plugged in I have an oil warning light on. I didn't notice the warning light before because the wire was not hooked up the first time I started it. Even with it plugged in and the oil light on, same noise, same hot top cold bottom.
05-07-2006, 06:28 PM
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Re: New oil filter?
Does the oil filter get warm?
No, oil pan is cold, the new filter is cold too
Which oil pump gasket did you change?
I changed both the oil pump gasket (against the block) and the crankshaft seal.
Did you pull the oil pump off?
Yes, pulled the oil pump off, cleaned the outside of it and slid it back on and then inserted the crank seal...creatively used a shot glass to push it in until flush with the oil pump lip.
Changed out the oil and filter, replaced the oil cooler seal...pretty much every seal/gasket on the bottom side of the engine
No, oil pan is cold, the new filter is cold too
Which oil pump gasket did you change?
I changed both the oil pump gasket (against the block) and the crankshaft seal.
Did you pull the oil pump off?
Yes, pulled the oil pump off, cleaned the outside of it and slid it back on and then inserted the crank seal...creatively used a shot glass to push it in until flush with the oil pump lip.
Changed out the oil and filter, replaced the oil cooler seal...pretty much every seal/gasket on the bottom side of the engine