Well cars back with schrick 260 cams..
 

i have driven it about 100 miles this morning...here are my first impressions. top end feels stronger.. from 5500-7000. its pulls to redline where as before it had the feeling of just revving there and not going anywhere. the mechanic ive had for some time now, while we were test driving car, was like "now the cars got some decent powah" in his southern redneck voice. i was laughing. under 4000 rpms it feels about the same. i dont know about being worth 1000 bucks brand new!!! which is ridiculous. but if you can get them for under 500 used (like i did), id highly suggest it. the 2.5 inch brullen exhaust complements these cams perfectly. i will post some gtech after numbers tonite. i want to keep exact same conditions as the other nite when i did 10 before runs and averaged 152 horses with 3350 weight i used on same stretch of even highway. im happy with results.

How's the idle?

Re: Well cars back with schrick 260 cams..
 

$1k for used cams...Ouch. At least they are Schricks, and not Pipers (RE-grinds of factory cam).

Anyway, 260 is still pretty tame, after you realize how cams are specified for advertising (duration is taken at a very very low lift, one that allows almost no air in/out of the engine, so a 260 cam is really like a 240, stock is 220 or so). 272's would be even sweeter especially with a ported head/IM and tubular header.

car idles just like before.. no change

Re: How's the idle? - I'd venture like stock, 260 = mild cam...

NONO... $$1000 new..
 

i bought them used. 500 bucks.

theyll serve their purpose for now
 

i know my engine was definitely faster than a stock 20v, and most modded 20vs around here before the cams. these will just help things along for now. until i get the cash for the turbo swap. dental schools almost over. 1 more month.

Re: NONO... $$1000 new..
 

OH...ok, I misread then! $500 is MUCH better...!

Re: theyll serve their purpose for now
 

I'd probably say that your 20v with "260's" should probably have been how the thing came from the factory (but no cone filter, CA probably wouldn't like that). But then, it would have been more powerful than the stock MC1 and MC2 motors, and I don't think Audi wanted to do that necessarily...

Ultimately (unless you have $$$$$ and want to keep the 7A), a turbo swap is <i>the</i> way to go, either 10vt or 20vt depending on what you want out of the car.

HELP!! $#)$*#)*@! IM PISSED.. heres new issue..
 

i pulled off plug wires to check plugs.. when i picked up car, my mechanic said one of wires actually sparked him. said wires might be bad. i disconnected battery to reset ecu. put plugs back in. started car. now its misfiring. bucking on full throttle. sort of hesitation.. what the hell is going on. bad plug wires?? they are 6 years old. magnecores 8.5mm KVRs. should i replace them? any other ideas. plugs, rotor, and cap are less than 6 mos. old. they have zapped me once too while car was running. that shouldnt happen right? im guessing its the wires... i do have TAP ECU.. it cant be that.