RS3 break in procedure
#31
That is an automatic warning whenever the car is not up to operating temperatures at initial startup. You should NOT be anywhere near exceeding this limit.
#32
Thanks for the clarification, did not go above that limit with the warning, it went past way later, but was assuming this warning being more related to some form of smarter break-in warning from Audi.
#33
I'm still at only 250ish miles (yes, after having it now for a few weeks) so I can't speak to the post break-in period. I believe this warning is present though whenever the temps aren't at their operating ranges regardless of mileage.
#34
How many miles were on the car when you got it? I know a lot of the TT RS are coming with upwards of 30 miles. This implies they have been driven by the test driver and I doubt he is out babying the car.
The critical thing is warm up. Once it's up to temperature drive it reasonably hard. Don't rev it out and abuse it. Don't sit at one RPM for a long period of time and ideally run the RPM up and let it coast down. Decel is good for break-in and so it boosts at responsible RPM.
So many people drive a car at RPM below 2K which is the worst thing for the engine. Low RPM that lugs an engine galls crank bearings. I never use D for this reason.
The whole origin of break-in is seating rings to cylinder walls. Current manufacturing techniques make this issue minimal. However being too gingerly on break-in can still effective polish the ring surface (glaze) before the cylinder walls lose what little hone there is. The ideal is to have the rings pressed against the cylinder wall to create the seal. There is a direct relationship between a proper break-in and power. It's not that you are trying to maximize power but properly fit parts. A properly broken-in engine will not burn oil and yet people follow the manual and then complain the car uses oil.
I am not advocating driving like you stole it but please don't baby the car, you will be sorry later.
The critical thing is warm up. Once it's up to temperature drive it reasonably hard. Don't rev it out and abuse it. Don't sit at one RPM for a long period of time and ideally run the RPM up and let it coast down. Decel is good for break-in and so it boosts at responsible RPM.
So many people drive a car at RPM below 2K which is the worst thing for the engine. Low RPM that lugs an engine galls crank bearings. I never use D for this reason.
The whole origin of break-in is seating rings to cylinder walls. Current manufacturing techniques make this issue minimal. However being too gingerly on break-in can still effective polish the ring surface (glaze) before the cylinder walls lose what little hone there is. The ideal is to have the rings pressed against the cylinder wall to create the seal. There is a direct relationship between a proper break-in and power. It's not that you are trying to maximize power but properly fit parts. A properly broken-in engine will not burn oil and yet people follow the manual and then complain the car uses oil.
I am not advocating driving like you stole it but please don't baby the car, you will be sorry later.
#35
AudiWorld Super User
How many miles were on the car when you got it? I know a lot of the TT RS are coming with upwards of 30 miles. This implies they have been driven by the test driver and I doubt he is out babying the car.
The critical thing is warm up. Once it's up to temperature drive it reasonably hard. Don't rev it out and abuse it. Don't sit at one RPM for a long period of time and ideally run the RPM up and let it coast down. Decel is good for break-in and so it boosts at responsible RPM.
So many people drive a car at RPM below 2K which is the worst thing for the engine. Low RPM that lugs an engine galls crank bearings. I never use D for this reason.
The whole origin of break-in is seating rings to cylinder walls. Current manufacturing techniques make this issue minimal. However being too gingerly on break-in can still effective polish the ring surface (glaze) before the cylinder walls lose what little hone there is. The ideal is to have the rings pressed against the cylinder wall to create the seal. There is a direct relationship between a proper break-in and power. It's not that you are trying to maximize power but properly fit parts. A properly broken-in engine will not burn oil and yet people follow the manual and then complain the car uses oil.
I am not advocating driving like you stole it but please don't baby the car, you will be sorry later.
The critical thing is warm up. Once it's up to temperature drive it reasonably hard. Don't rev it out and abuse it. Don't sit at one RPM for a long period of time and ideally run the RPM up and let it coast down. Decel is good for break-in and so it boosts at responsible RPM.
So many people drive a car at RPM below 2K which is the worst thing for the engine. Low RPM that lugs an engine galls crank bearings. I never use D for this reason.
The whole origin of break-in is seating rings to cylinder walls. Current manufacturing techniques make this issue minimal. However being too gingerly on break-in can still effective polish the ring surface (glaze) before the cylinder walls lose what little hone there is. The ideal is to have the rings pressed against the cylinder wall to create the seal. There is a direct relationship between a proper break-in and power. It's not that you are trying to maximize power but properly fit parts. A properly broken-in engine will not burn oil and yet people follow the manual and then complain the car uses oil.
I am not advocating driving like you stole it but please don't baby the car, you will be sorry later.
Gentle-ish city driving is supposedly the best break-in "method", varying RPMs and compression - but I'm being told that I'm old-school in my thinking... check out the articles I attached earlier in the thread.
#36
Mine had 25 miles when it arrived at the dealer from the carrier still wrapped in plastic. They put an additional 4 miles for the pre-delivery test drive, so I took delivery with 29 miles on my RS3.
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