rbowman

I have two basic questions about the bang and olufsen system in the A3.

1. Is there a hidden equalizer anywhere that can be accessed? I think the system definitely needs it.
2. Does anyone know what the crossover is for the sub and if it can be adjusted? I'm considering replacing the sub but concerned it might not be of much help if the crossover is set too low.

PaperLion

What kind of listening? Are you wanting to blast low bass heavy music or listen to jazz? I listen to a lot of EDM and grungy rock music in my car at live volume.

I'm not aware of any hidden signal processing options in the 18 A3 B&O.

Going to a decent 10" w 400W made it so much better for my tastes. The B&O sub can do more than it should for what it is but it can't get that loud. I think the fronts are crossed over at 80Hz, so that's what I set my sub to, but I think the stock sub was crossed at more like 100Hz. The JL seemed too boomy like that so I set it to 80Hz iirc. But there is a bit of a deadspot that could use some EQ action.

The main thing so far with my 18 S3 has been dampening vibration. The rear high lamp is a major source. I was losing so much bass response to rattles. Even if you can't hear a rattle, it's still dissipating and distorting the sound. When it's all behaving the system sounds really good with the upgrade. The doors need some work but when the fronts are tight and nothing is rattling the midbass is surprisingly capable at high volume.

imo, makes more sense for the xover to be set as low as possible. The higher the frequency that the sub is audibly producing, the more obvious which direction it's coming from.

rbowman

Mine is a 2015. A better sub is something I am considering since the pancake sub is limited. But putting in a better sub is going to be limited if the crossover is set too low. I'm used to aftermarket stereos with equalizers, ability to control the sub crossover, and a separate control for the sub. The B&O has none of that except a limited volume control on the sub. which takes a lot of steps on the system to get to. The quality of sound varies a lot depending on the music source (radio, bluetooth, wired ipod, etc.). Even FM radio stations vary quite a bit. I cant understand why B&O wouldn't have built in more controls for different types of music.

arU4ic

I feel ya - I use an app that has an EQ on it. - extra bonus is that it plays FLAC and AIFF files.

Haven't touched the hardware yet.

Jackal28

1. Unfortunatly no, all of the DSP is in the MMI, i believe based on obdeleven.
2. The sub crossover is at 100hz which is perfectly fine for my subwoofer upgrade although I'd prefer 120hz. You can review this info via obdeleven and I did change the "Check tone frequency" to 120hz, but not sure if that did it.
3. The frequencies as listed per the obdeleven are 100hz low, 800hz mid, 4000hz high. I hope this is helpful. My subwoofer works perfectly, and my main choice of music is rock, but it works pretty well with rap too.

Jackal28

There are input gains per source which can be accessed to change the level at which the MMI pulls from the source. Stock are all set to middle, which is fine for Ipod, CD, and Harddrive, but bluetooth may require a boost as it seems to play lower. Also, not sure about the radio or XM as I haven't used them much, but I'd be afraid to increase those gains given that it may introduce more distortion.
Also, via the ecu, you can adjust the gain levels in that as well. As for the crossover, I'm not sure, but there is an option for "Check tone frequency" which I changed from 100hz to 120hz for lows, 800hz is the mids, and the highs are at 4000hz according to obdeleven, as for my other computer the highs are at 6000hz, and still VCDS reads another output.

Jackal28

I meant louder not lower...sorry

ntstambo2

I've got an '18 S3 as well and there are some adjustment options I've noticed. I can definitely adjust the sub-woofer at least. I'm not an audio expert but regardless of what I do, it sounds like this system produces a lot of bass and treble, but is kind of lacking in the mid-range. I get the vibration in my front driver's side door speaker and in the back. Not sure where in the back it's vibrating, but it sounds like my rear window is shaking if I turn it up even half way. Again, I'm no audiophile so I can't say this for certain, but it seems like the system is too strong for the speakers. I'm always afraid that if I turn it up past 50% that I could easily blow them. It's definitely the most powerful stock system that I've ever had in a car.

PaperLion

The third tail light was the source of most of my rear rattles. I removed the light module and put some Tesa tape in various places including the metal clips that secure it to its housing. That helped a ton.

Similar actions in the front doors mostly quieted the annoying rattles I had. The speakers are stout and can handle being fully cranked. Once the vibrations are taken care of the system is pretty impressive, I think. Especially with a decent sub swapped in.

ntstambo2

Oh wow, that's good to know, thanks!