Erdem

Hi,

I have a 2013 A5 and it has just 1600 miles on it. Last weekend, I went to the local ski resort with my car. There was a little snow and this was the first time I drove on the snow with my new car.

I have been using manual transmission car for 10 plus years so I never had any problem with using the clutch on the hill.

When I was climbing the hill, I did many stops because of the traffic in front of me. Suddenly I felt a bad burning smell and a little smoke, I thought it comes from the tires or outside. I check the car displays, there was no warning. Heat was okay, no high rpm, no sign. I as really close to resort so I drove and parked. On the way back I felt something is wrong with my clutch. I can not change shift easily. the clutch is so loose in the beginning and becomes very tough at the end. I had to press so hard to change the shift and even in that case it was not that quick. I barely made home.

I called the roadside assistance and they towed my car to the service. Now I am waiting for their call.

1- I am so disappointed to have this issue, I mean I have used my civic several years in really harsh winter environment and never had any problem, this car has to be better than this, It has just 1600 miles.
2- I hope the warranty will cover it. My suspect is even if the warranty covers, will the car be same? I mean is it possible that it has some damage which is not apparent now but will show up in a year or so?
3- does anyone have similar problem?
4- I love my car, how it drives and looks but now I feel so disappointed. I never liked mercedes and I am not a fan of bmw but now I have bad experience with auidi. Where is the great german engineering?

JohnnyJ A6Q

at 1600 miles on it you would have had to be using the clutch to hold to vehicle on the hill [ riding the clutch ] for some time and over heating the components, where you riding the clutch ?, I would want all components of the clutch assembly replaced as seen below from Ben's site..




http://www.benplace.com/vw_clutch.htm

Clutch...& stuff! First, a little information about the components... (some info gathered on the web)
(pictures are not all from a VW)
Flywheel
The flywheel provides a friction surface for the clutch disc, a mounting surface for the pressure plate, a mounting for the starter driven gear, and on some engines, the flywheel is a factor in engine balance.

The condition of the friction surface of the flywheel is important for proper clutch function. The surface should be smooth and free of burned spots and surface cracks. Used flywheels can be re-surfaced. This should be done by grinding rather than lathe turning as less material is removed. The amount of material removed from the face can affect which clutch release bearing should be used. A flywheel should always be checked for runout on the engine it will be used on. Face runout should not exceed .005 (five thousandths) of an inch.

Pressure Plate
This is the "driven" part of the clutch. It has a friction material riveted to each side of a wavy spring (called a marcel). This is attached to a splined hub that the transmission input gear protrudes into.

There are basically two types of friction material used for clutch lining. These are organic and metallic. The organic is best for all around use. The metallic is preferred by some for severe duty applications but requires high spring pressures and is hard on the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. Avoid solid hub clutches and clutches without marcel as they will always chatter when used in vehicles with a rear differential mounted on springs (as opposed to a transaxle design).

Clutch Disc
This is the "driven" part of the clutch. It has a friction material riveted to each side of a wavy spring (called a marcel). This is attached to a splined hub that the transmission input gear protrudes into.

There are basically two types of friction material used for clutch lining. These are organic and metallic. The organic is best for all around use. The metallic is preferred by some for severe duty applications but requires high spring pressures and is hard on the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. Avoid solid hub clutches and clutches without marcel as they will always chatter when used in vehicles with a rear differential mounted on springs (as opposed to a transaxle design).

Pilot Bushing (roller bearing as like like to call this one)
In most cases, this is a porous bronze, pre-lubed bushing rather than an actual bearing, as it is often called. A few applications still use an actual bearing and others use a needle roller type bearing, but by far, the most common type is bronze. You cannot use a roller bearing on a transmission shaft originally designed for a bronze bushing due to different type of heat treatment on the shafts. The pilot bushing is seldom thought of as a part of the clutch system but it is one of the most vital parts of the system. It pilots the end of the transmission input gear in the crankshaft. If it is worn or not running "true", it can cause serious clutch problems or transmission failure. Pilot bushing bore runout should always be checked with a dial indicator and should be within .002 total. The bronze bushing type should be a press fit in the crankshaft bore. It must be installed carefully. It should have between .001 and .003 clearance on the transmission shaft when installed. The pilot bushing is only functional when the clutch is disengaged but it is a factor in input gear alignment at ALL times.
Clutch Release Bearing (sometime called the Throw-out bearing)
As its name implies, this is the bearing that releases the clutch. It is often referred toas a "throw-out" bearing. They come on a number of different style carriers. The carriers, in some cases, vary considerably with the particular engine.Because the release bearing only works when the clutch is being released it usually lasts quite a long time. However, improper linkage adjustment or riding the clutch with your foot when driving can wear the bearing prematurely. Normally there should be a minimum of 1/16" clearance between the face of the bearing and the three release fingers or diaphragm spring of the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged. This fact is important and will be discussed further when we get to the part about setting up the clutch linkage.
Transmission Front Bearing Retainer
This great device has three critical functions. This first is as its name implies. The second is to provide a register on which the bellhousing must center. This is feature is sometimes overlooked with expensive consequences. Thirdly, its tubular snout is the surface on which the throwout bearing rides on its way into to depress the springs of the pressure plate. Conversions often require special and modified retainers to acheive compatibility.
A """general""" view of a clutch assembly.....





Cheers, Ben

Erdem

Thank you for your answer.
I was riding the clutch to keep my speed slow because of the traffic in front of me. So you are saying this caused it to heat up and burned out. While I understand the idea, I am confused on:
1- Since the traffic is running slow, I can not use my 1st and second gear with out riding the clutch. I could stop and wait until there is some distance happens in front me but that would be annoying. If I understand you correctly, in city traffic, it will cause problem too.
2- I use clutch to control my speed when there is not enough space around me a lot. I never had any clutch problem before. I did not have enough time to drive my car in winter conditions (I have it just 1 month) but where I used to live was snowing whole winter. My car there did not have ABS, and I was using clutch to control my car when it slips. never had any clutch problem.

So, in audi , do I have to be extra careful to use the clutch? how I can drive the car with out riding the clutch in high traffic city conditions?

KarlFEvans

When you say 'riding the clutch', do you mean depressing the clutch pedal part way and leaving it depressed part way for an extended period of time? Say, 10-15 seconds at a time?

When you depress the clutch pedal part way, the clutch is turning at a different speed than the flywheel (engine) and friction occurs. IF the clutch is depressed part way for too long, this friction causes heat and smoke and a burning smell,

All six of my cars have manual transmissions, and some of them are much easier to drive in stop-and-go city traffic than others. My 2003 Audi A4 1.8T is very easy as is my Porsche 944 Turbo, but my 2012 S5 is the not as easy.

bilbo47

I read (or watched) someone explain the clutch pedal really elegantly a few months back..

Pretend there's a big red light on your dashboard with the word BAD written underneath it. This light represents wear on your clutch. The only times that the light is OFF is when (a) the clutch pedal is pressed all the way into the carpet with your foot, or (b) your foot isn't on the pedal at all. In any other position, the very bright, very red "BAD" light is turned ON.

Erdem

I think the term "riding the clutch" is confusing.

I understand and know that using the clutch will wear it off by time and this is normal like the brakes. When you use them, they will wear off and get replaced in time.

Using the clutch half pressed is also wear it off more but in manual transmission, I guess, you have to do that time by time.

I always stabilize the car speed by pushing clutch and the gas pedal together when necessary. I had a honda civic and I barely use my brakes in winter because of the icy roads. Instead I always use my clutch and gas pedal to stop even in the hills except red lights, and slow down and get control back when the car slips on the ice.

I drove my civic 6 years and it was already have 100k miles on it. Never changed the clutch parts, never had any problem. Before I had an Opel back in my home country and never had problem in winter and I was really harsh on it.

Now, I drove my brand new audi, which is called sport car, and just 1600 miles on it, the clutch gets wear off that easy? Excuse me but, I dont understand it. I was driving in a traffic that I even would not call it as a traffic if this thing would not happen. It was just a slow cars with many stops. That is how it is supposed to be in city, right?

I would understand if, I keep pressing my clutch when having high revs, but using clutch to stabilize the car should be okay.

It is okay if it shorten the lifetime of the clutch but, come on, 1600 miles. Very disappointing, very annoying.

Super 90

I really do not believe it is the fault of the Audi clutch.

It is either the way you are driving it, or there is/was something wrong with your clutch disk/pressure plate. One of the two.

It is impossible to diagnose the cause by reading text in a forum. You need to see what Audi says about it after examining the parts.

Realistically, a clutch should be lasting most drivers over 100K miles. I changed the clutch in my 911 at 120K miles, only because I pulled the engine to fix an oil leak. The clutch was fine. I have 2 Toyotas and they're over 150K with original clutches. There is either something wrong, or it is your method of driving.

a5sport

OK guys...let me jump in here.

A clutch should have only two positions.

1) Fully engaged

2) Fully disengaged

Anything else and you will put unnecessary wear on all of the components.

Any more questions?

Oh...and my 40 years in professional automobile racing have nothing to do with my opinion. OK...so I'm lying.

Erdem

Thank you very much for all your messages. The last update is, the service called me and told me that even if I drove it really badly, it should not happen so most probably the clutch has a problem inside. They could not open it and checked yet since they need a special tool (I dont know what he is talking) so they will be able to open it on Thursday. The service guy told me that everything will be under warranty.

Summary:
-I am really happy with the service, road side assistance and the people in the dealer or the auto call service. Everyone helped me, I got a temporary car from the beginning so I can at least commute.
- I still love my car, it looks and rides wonderful.
- My only disappointment is it should not happen because I think Audi must have really strict manufacturing quality test.

- My concern is if it does not covered with the warranty than it will cost me a lot.
- A note: I am at least happy about the service people, they did not try to blame me at anytime.

I will keep posting the results. Unfortunately I will not have my car until next Monday

Erdem

For those who replied, I respect all of you and I accept that I might not be as good as you. And I accept that what you are saying is true. Please don't get me wrong. I am not trying to say that I did everything perfect and it should not happen. What I was trying to say day, I was driving like that for years and I never had any problem. It might wear the clutch but I never burned the clutch.

I am impressed a5sport has a lot of racing experience. I am honestly asking, (no sarcasm) how can you drive just using the clutch full engaged or full unengaged only. In city traffic, or when you are going really slow, how can you drive if you are fully unengaged? I am asking this to learn, hope you don't get me wrong.