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Cracked spindle - how bad to replace?

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Old 05-15-2018, 10:26 AM
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Default Cracked spindle - how bad to replace?

After I found the solution to my abnormally stiff steering (Seafoam Deep Creep to the ISS...TYVM AudiWorld!), I uncovered what turned out to be an unrelated creak/popping noise from the driver-front spindle/knuckle. Was sporadic but did not happen when car was on jack stands, so i took my A5 to my mechanic to diagnose this noise since I could not replicate the sound unless the car was on the ground/weight on the tires. After they said that it could be the upper joint of the ISS causing the sound, I said that it couldn't be since the steering was now so smooth, so they looked further into it and found that the D/F spindle was cracked.

How hard is that for me to replace? I can do brakes, bearings, and other shade tree-type repairs...but I don't want to get in too deep, like dealing with ball joint or bushing presses and such.

Can anyone guide me on what this repair will entail? I planned on going used with the part, since it's an unlikely failure (honestly don't know how mine broke...no major pot hole problems lately and I'd certainly remember hitting one big enough to crack the spindle), so knowing what other parts need to be purchased/replaced would be helpful.

Thanks!
Old 05-15-2018, 07:28 PM
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You can purchase PDF's of the factory service manual (FSM) directly from Audi. You basically buy a one-day pass and download all of the docs related to your car.

The ball joints, with a ball joint tool, are very very easy. Same with bearings. I bought a push/pull bearing installation/removal kit off of Amazon and it works like butter. Super easy. The ball joint tool is from ECS (Schwaben) and it too was very easy. I haven't looked up what it takes to get to the spindle but the entire brake on that side would have to come off and you'd most likely have to take the control arms off too along with self-leveling sensor if equipped. One pain in the *** thing with Audi is the suspension uses stretch bolts and must be replaced with new items.

For the factory service manual downloads, go to https://erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do and sign up for a free account. I believe a 24-hour pass is $39 or thereabouts. You can easily download everything in under two hours and I searched for related docs several different ways. Some docs will say A5 but have S5 or RS5 content so I just downloaded EVERYTHING to be safe.

Once downloaded, you can open them, print them, etc...at any time. There's a "warning" initial page on each one but you just scroll to the bottom and click ok and the rest of the doc opens up. You can also disable this in Acrobat preferences. ElsaWin is slightly more detailed but you have to download a bootleg version and install it on a Windows computer. I did this and it took me about two weeks to get the right (cheap) laptop with the right specs and then figure out how to actually install it. Wasn't easy.
Old 05-18-2018, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ape Factory
You can purchase PDF's of the factory service manual (FSM) directly from Audi. You basically buy a one-day pass and download all of the docs related to your car....
Awesome info. Thanks. Now I just need to decide to spend the money on the tools and parts, and beer, or just pay the mechanic. The donor spindle arrived yesterday.
Old 05-18-2018, 09:05 AM
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Default What is it you’re calling a spindle?

Originally Posted by BuffaloA5
After I found the solution to my abnormally stiff steering (Seafoam Deep Creep to the ISS...TYVM AudiWorld!), I uncovered what turned out to be an unrelated creak/popping noise from the driver-front spindle/knuckle. Was sporadic but did not happen when car was on jack stands, so i took my A5 to my mechanic to diagnose this noise since I could not replicate the sound unless the car was on the ground/weight on the tires. After they said that it could be the upper joint of the ISS causing the sound, I said that it couldn't be since the steering was now so smooth, so they looked further into it and found that the D/F spindle was cracked.

How hard is that for me to replace? I can do brakes, bearings, and other shade tree-type repairs...but I don't want to get in too deep, like dealing with ball joint or bushing presses and such.

Can anyone guide me on what this repair will entail? I planned on going used with the part, since it's an unlikely failure (honestly don't know how mine broke...no major pot hole problems lately and I'd certainly remember hitting one big enough to crack the spindle), so knowing what other parts need to be purchased/replaced would be helpful.

Thanks!
i know what uprights are, hubs, upper and Lowe control arms, and the splined axle end (outer rzeppa joint) but spindle is a new one. Google shows an entire upright assembly with a hub and upper and lower control arms.

Ok, in UK, etc, In an automobile, the spindle is a part of the suspension system that carries the hub for the wheel and attaches to the upper and lower control arms. The spindle is referred to as an upright in UK-built vehicles and in areas dominated by cars designed for the UK, like Australia, New Zealand etc.

verry unusual to have a cracked upright unless from collision damage where literally anything can be damaged.

While you’re in there and chances are you’ll have removed the axle assembly you might check the cv joints boots and if they’re cracked or showing precracks replace them and the joint lube that comes with.
Old 05-18-2018, 09:17 AM
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Default I’ve pulled a dozen uprights one way or another

Originally Posted by BuffaloA5
Awesome info. Thanks. Now I just need to decide to spend the money on the tools and parts, and beer, or just pay the mechanic. The donor spindle arrived yesterday.
Basically if you’ve ever replaced an upper or lower control arm and an axle you’ve e enough to replace an upright or spindle. Perhaps excluding replacing a wheel bearing since they’re pressed into the upright/spindle. I love my air hammer to drive out balky pinch bolts on the upper control arms, as well as ball joint removers to pop things loose. If you’re not reusing your ballpoint/control arms and installing a used assembly with upper and lower control arms attached to the upright, you don’t need to pop anything..the entire spindle assembly comes out attached to a bracket you release from the top u dear the hood and bolts from the bottom. Just make sure you get the angle right on the top and bottom control arms before you torque the mounting bolts...I duplicate the original angles. Some people attempt to torque the four bolts with the suspension loaded but that is difficult without a lift and the top two bolts are very difficult to torque installed in the car.

Inspect the donor assembly closely...I’d probably install a new hub bearing to avoid having to pull the upright or rent/use a Shark-type bearing puller/installer to replace a wheel bearing later...
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