Dealership wants $1100 to replace front brakes...
11-17-2018, 04:12 PM
#1
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Dealership wants $1100 to replace front brakes...
I need new breaks on my 2014 S5 Coupe. Dealership wants $1100 just for the front pads and rotors... I think that's a bit much. Who makes the best rotors that I can get installed at an indy shop?
Thanks.
Thanks.
11-17-2018, 05:39 PM
#2
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I was told at last state inspection, that my S5 needed front brakes soon, I know the stock pads are about $280, I'm not sure what the rotors go for. I'll definitely be using different pads, I can't stand all the brake dust.
11-17-2018, 05:47 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
I believe Brembo makes the best rotors.
I was charged 1450 for break pads and rotors for the front.
https://www.brembo.com/en
https://www.r1concepts.com/
https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_ca...otor+silver+++
If anything, i would go for Audi brakes and rotor
I was charged 1450 for break pads and rotors for the front.
https://www.brembo.com/en
https://www.r1concepts.com/
https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_ca...otor+silver+++
If anything, i would go for Audi brakes and rotor
Last edited by bravo659; 11-17-2018 at 05:55 PM.
11-19-2018, 08:30 AM
#4
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An Audi dealership that I frequent quoted $1600 for OEM pads and rotor replacement on my '15 S5. They offered to discount that to $1,200. I did some research and found that some dealerships and independents "seem" to be quoting ~ $900. That's quite a spread.
Is the replacement being done b/c of actual wear (reasonable mileage for '14?)? I only ask b/c mine had to be done b/c of some really bad squealing that occurred during the last few feet of travel when coming to a full stop. I pressed the issue b/c my car only had 24K miles on it... there is a TSB out for specific VINs to address this type of squealing. (In regards to my front brake replacement... the dealership ended up doing a 1-time, non-warranted OEM pad and rotor replacement at no cost. Seems my VIN was just outside the TSB... so I was given some "consideration" which I really appreciated.)
Is the replacement being done b/c of actual wear (reasonable mileage for '14?)? I only ask b/c mine had to be done b/c of some really bad squealing that occurred during the last few feet of travel when coming to a full stop. I pressed the issue b/c my car only had 24K miles on it... there is a TSB out for specific VINs to address this type of squealing. (In regards to my front brake replacement... the dealership ended up doing a 1-time, non-warranted OEM pad and rotor replacement at no cost. Seems my VIN was just outside the TSB... so I was given some "consideration" which I really appreciated.)
11-19-2018, 10:43 AM
#5
You can always try to replace them yourself. You can get Akebono ceramic pads for around $100 and the rotors won't be too much either. You can probably save $1000 compared to the dealer. Use that money to get a ECU tune and you will have a much faster S5.
11-20-2018, 04:18 AM
#6
I do my own brakes. I use Centric rotors and pads on all my Audis now. Centric and Stoptech are the same company. The Centric rotors have a superior anti corrosive coating on the non friction surfaces compared to OEM. The Centric Posi Quiet Semi Metallic pads are very comparable to OEM. Slightly less dusty but with great initial bite and stopping power. The pads come with new hardware ( springs, clips, pins as required) too. I’ve done 2 sets on Q7s and a set on a TT. Definitely will do them on the S5 if I keep it that long. There’s a ceramic version of the pad too if you prefer that for less dust. I don’t use ceramics because I prefer the superior initial bite and higher overall friction level of semi metallics. I buy from Tire Rack. Will save you well over 50% even after paying an independent mechanic.
Last edited by J. Patterson; 11-20-2018 at 05:36 AM.
11-20-2018, 03:17 PM
#7
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No need to replace the rotors unless there is a good reason (warped, badly groved, worn down). Replacing rotors is just another garage rip-off scheme.
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11-20-2018, 11:01 PM
#8
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Dealers tend to wanna replace both rotors and pads at the same time, but technically if the rotor still has live in it, you don't necessarily have to replace it. Key is to measure the remaining thickness and see how much material you have left. The minimum thickness should be stamped on the hat. If you have 50% or more wear left, then you can go for another set of pads on the same rotors. Audi doesn't allow turning the rotors and the OEM rotors are relatively soft, so they do wear quite fast. I've gone through two sets of pads on my RS5's OEM rear rotors, but I did replace the front rotors with aftermarket after I wore down the first set of pads. Keep in mind, the front brakes do most of the work, so you wanna pay most attention to them.
11-21-2018, 06:47 AM
#9
The rotor thickness minimums are quite conservative. In my experience you can ALWAYS run a set of rotors twice, changing them every other set of pads. There is one thing I’ll advise you of however. The lip that develops at the edge of the rotor as it wears is right in line with the pad’s wear sensor.As the pads get thinner It will cut into the pad sensor and give you a brake warning earlier than you would have gotten one if you had replaced rotors. As to stopping ability and safety, no real difference unless rotors are REALLY worn. The bigger risk is that they will have pad material transfer from the old pads and develop pulsation. Not a big risk though if you bed the new pads properly. On my track car, I go thru at least three sets of pads per rotor change. ( Unless I crack a rotor but that is another story.)
11-21-2018, 06:57 AM
#10
Greto, Everyone feels your pain, you'll find numerous similar threads here and elsewhere. Same story here, even an indy will jack the price just because you chose to drive a German cars. Kinda' sad really.
I bought front Zimmermann rotors and F/R Akebono ceramics pads for my S5 cab from ECS for <$400 and did it myself. I'm a casual shade tree mechanic, and a brake job is pretty much the extent of my desire to work on cars these days, however, if you're not comfortable, have a buddy help. It's the same as any other disc brake system and quite satisfying when complete. No more dust...(or at least it's lighter colored dust, and doesn't show in 3 days of driving). Basic tools except for the rotor bracket bolt socket and breaker bar. I used the Carista device to retract my rear calibers. Otherwise grit your teeth and pay the man.
Good luck,
Jack in Ohio
I bought front Zimmermann rotors and F/R Akebono ceramics pads for my S5 cab from ECS for <$400 and did it myself. I'm a casual shade tree mechanic, and a brake job is pretty much the extent of my desire to work on cars these days, however, if you're not comfortable, have a buddy help. It's the same as any other disc brake system and quite satisfying when complete. No more dust...(or at least it's lighter colored dust, and doesn't show in 3 days of driving). Basic tools except for the rotor bracket bolt socket and breaker bar. I used the Carista device to retract my rear calibers. Otherwise grit your teeth and pay the man.
Good luck,
Jack in Ohio